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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Well the pump is the stock pump that's been in there for over 100k miles. It's clearly audible with a high pitched whining, but it's been like that ever since I got the car (1 1/2 years ago).

Maybe I should step up to a better pump?
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Update:

So I used the first bottle on the FRR Hose and gave it about 1/3 of the bottle. Damn there was smoke, but it wasn't a huge amount(I did it at night time at my work's parking lot, figured it'd be safer in case the smoke attracted too much attention).

I actually did see a slight increase in throttle response, not a huge amount, but noticeable. Anyway, the other 2/3 I stuck into the fuel tank, when I get my next bottles I will probably use up a full bottle in the FPR and PCV, and then maybe mix in 1 bottle with the engine oil (run it for an hour or two and then get an Oil change :D

I'll keep you guys updated.
 
just curious...

what happens to all of the "crap" that is rinsed away by the Seafoam? I thought that using engine cleaners is not all that great, because all of the "gunk" that was all over everything will go straight down into the oil pan and lay there and could possibly clog the oil pick up tube...?

True/false?

enlightnen me more about what occurs during the actual process...
 
Cobra Jet NJ said:
just curious...

what happens to all of the "crap" that is rinsed away by the Seafoam? I thought that using engine cleaners is not all that great, because all of the "gunk" that was all over everything will go straight down into the oil pan and lay there and could possibly clog the oil pick up tube...?

True/false?

enlightnen me more about what occurs during the actual process...
Simple solution: Change the oil and filter after a couple hundred miles. Just make sure the motor is hot, so all of the gunk will be in suspension. You're right though, the stuff just doesn't "dissappear" unless you're sucking through the intake, than it goes out with the exhaust.

I dropped a half can in my crankcase, and I'm giving it about 1000 miles before I change the oil.

Future303, IMHO (I'm no expert) when you let it soak for the 5 mins, that's the real moneymaker. Instead of going a full can all at once next time, I'd go half a can, let it soak, let it smoke, than repeat.
 
what happens to all of the "crap" that is rinsed away by the Seafoam
Thats what i was wondering if the crap from the combusiton chambers will clog my cats more? Clogged cats causes pinging also.

BTW My fuel pump is as quiet as when i got her---50k then 144k now. Im going to buy a fuel pressure guage ASAP- the ones that mount on the schrader valve and stay there.
 
I added 1/2 can to my oil not long after I had an oil change last week, and I'm smoking like a sonofabitch if I get on it now. Maybe that's just the excess burning off...? I hope that **** didn't ruin my rings or seals in the heads, allowing more oil into the chamber. It smoked a bit at hammer time before, but now it's just absurd. After reading this, I think I'll go change it really soon.
 
So would i just use the PCV hose to suck up the Seafoam? I know about the FPR line, but would it be better to suck it up through the PCV hose instead? I assume i'd pull the PCV out from the back of the motor, take the pcv valve and dip it in the can of seafoam so that it sucks it up. Correct?
 
I think that the fpr hose is the preferred location as its just downstream of the t/b and therefore should clean-out the entire upper intake.

Haevn't used the seafoam yet myself, so I'll let others chime in.
 
I have used Seafoam since about 1990. I worked in a parts store in the Chicago suburbs when Seafoam was trying to come south (originally in MN for boats and a fuel stabilizer for storage) the creators also found out it would clean out carbon build up in the combustion chamber.

I had used it in all of my older cars through the carberator, and gave it a couple of tries in my '95 Cobra when I got it.
The original owener of the '95 was a lady who only drove the car about 8000 miles a year (about 10 miles a day) so I figured the carbon build up was the cause of my pinning. I ran a first can through the fuel tank, with no real changes. The second can I ran through the main vacuum line which feeds the 4 port splitter (where the brake booster gets its vacuum feed). The first time I ran 1/2 can letting the engine stall. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes then re-started (lot's of smoke) a little better, but still some pinning every now and then.
I ran the second 1/2 of a can the same way after about 1 month, now no pinning at all.
I will run another can the same way in another month or so just to keep things clean.
 
Heh, this is funny. I use this stuff all the time at work.

Cadillac Northstar motors have a bad knocking problem because they are high performance motors detuned for luxury use. They build up a lot of carbon on the top of the pistons especially and the rings. It can get so bad that the rings carbon up and the motor will consume 2 qts of oil in 1,000 miles. Even worse, the carbon can get so thick on the top of the pistons that it will form a solid layer and start hitting the valves, causing a knocking noise.

The GM top engine cleaner is sprayed in through the brake booster vacuum hose with the engine at operating temps and running. When the can is empty you reconnect the hose and shut the motor off. Depending on how bad the carbon is estimated, you let it sit for 20 minutes, or as much as overnight. Then start it up and go beat the piss out of the car for about 20 minutes to get all that carbon out of those combustion chambers. The smoke that comes out of the tail pipe is sick. lol
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Update:

I have ran Seafoam a second time, this time thru the Brake Booster Hose. A little bit of smoke after 10 mins (even the first time it only smoked for like 10 seconds).

I had also run 1/2 a bottle in the Crankcase and 2 complete bottles in the gas tank (1 per every fill up)

Damn pinging has NOT gone away completely!!! I still get pinging under hard acceleration (no pinging in normal driving)

I have cleaned my MAF and just bought a new set of O2 Sensors. What other sensors should I be looking at to change? Also gonna do like someone suggested and take a look at the A9L Spark settings and compare them to mine. Maybe get a new pump and FPR.
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
try cooling the engine better.
maybe youll be interested in some of these articles anout detonation and pre ignition
Nice Articles. BTW I have flushed my Rad, and changed the coolant (60% water, 40% Prestone AF), I also replaced the stock thermostat with a 180 degree tstat and added a bottle of water wetter to the mix. It definitely runs cooler now, especially at hwy speeds. however ping is still there under high acceleration. I'm starting to suspect worn out sensors causing the problem.
 
there is a li9nk somewhere about EVERY SINgLE step to clean,fix the ping!!!
i have it printed up too...maybe i can find it...it has the tps fix,maf fix,iac fix,throttle body fix,and much much more..i didnt like the tip to use brake fluid thru the vacuum line..i tried it,i wouldnt suck it in...thank god...

did you try to increase your timing?when i did mine the increase elp ALOT now when i use super it rarely pings unless real hot out side.and i heat her up.
once you learn how that computer works,you will realize....like me....

either pms/tweecer/similar or scrap it....the eec iv will not let you program any 3000 rpm and lower curves...its self sufficient and will relearn arounds anything you do..like a space aged termiator...
i get my info from the peraon who made the eec iv program!
fo 94/95
i gottta stop the book size posts...but read these links and click all over..its gonna tell u evrything.
and this is way off topic...
BUT THE SEAFOAM DID MAKE SOME DIFEERENCE FOR U? u use high octane?
 
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