"Ed Curtis special - Flowtech Stage IV solid roller 3/4 race B cam (around .700 lift and 250-260 duration)"

Signature worthy!

 

Those head hunters look like some bad dudes. Did they reduce the valve size due to the 4.040 bore?

Any reason you’re not doing Bosch 210s for injector? I’d think the 160s will be totally maxed out on e98.

What are you doing for blower drive?

 

Those head hunters look like some bad dudes. Did they reduce the valve size due to the 4.040 bore?

Any reason you’re not doing Bosch 210s for injector? I’d think the 160s will be totally maxed out on e98.

What are you doing for blower drive?

In their notes it has the head port as a "small intake", so I assume it is a different program for smaller valves and bores.

The 160s are fine because I run around 70 psi of base fuel pressure and 90 psi of fuel pressure under boost, the brushless pumps don't lose volume at higher pressures like a regular pump. I can switch if I need to but I'll probably go beyond 210s if I do.

Blower drive is just a side slinger right now.

 

now this is what i'm talking about... in for the win!!!!!!

 

Those T&D rockers are snazzy! Love the Brodix head hunters too! . If I could do my 430W all over again I'd run those with a max effort NA deal and shoot for close to 2 HP per cubic inch. My TFS R Series 430W made 716/592 with a heavy ring pack, heavy Oliver steel rod, h-13 tool steel pins, Lunati sig series crank. Bottom end wayy over built for big boost, could've gotten away with lighter rotating assy, but I'll take what I have and enjoy. We swapped out to a 3 stg aviaid dry sump system so we could fit the Detroit Speed Aluma frame cradle (68 Falcon) without oil pan clearance issues.
Your combo will be badass. Get all you want now and use the parts you think you'll need while your in there. Good luck and I'll be following this one.

 

Those T&D rockers are snazzy! Love the Brodix head hunters too! . If I could do my 430W all over again I'd run those with a max effort NA deal and shoot for close to 2 HP per cubic inch. My TFS R Series 430W made 716/592 with a heavy ring pack, heavy Oliver steel rod, h-13 tool steel pins, Lunati sig series crank. Bottom end wayy over built for big boost, could've gotten away with lighter rotating assy, but I'll take what I have and enjoy. We swapped out to a 3 stg aviaid dry sump system so we could fit the Detroit Speed Aluma frame cradle (68 Falcon) without oil pan clearance issues.
Your combo will be badass. Get all you want now and use the parts you think you'll need while your in there. Good luck and I'll be following this one.

Your bottom end sounds like the one that will come after this. I want something like you described with the appropriate camshaft to go 8,000 rpm.

 

Ed Curtis special - Flowtech Stage IV solid roller 3/4 race B cam (around .700 lift and 250-260 duration)
Comp Cams 838-16 solid lifters

Dang!!! Here in LA that is worth getting a tattoo on your arm over. You just raised the value of the Comp 838’s I won’t be using. 👍

 

For some reason I have accumulated three sets of those comp 838 lifters over the years so I figure it would be silly not to use them.

 

just out of curiosity and for conversation... did you ever think of going to a Cleveland style head? if so what made you decide on inline? availability? etc.. not pushing one over the other... just curious on if there was thought about it...

 

As far as a sbf head that will accept a pretty easily accessible intake, the head hunters are a pretty solid option.

You can pretty much keep the same cooling system a fox body has and everything just goes right together.

 

I am guessing here but with the F2 I don’t think you will be giving up much with the in-line head.

 

I'm pretty sure those TW R Series can be welded up and make a good NA head without tons of cylinder pressure or Nitrous. Good to know the Brodix HH is the same exhaust adapter as the TW R Series because I'm having another set made since the ones I had made by Sanderson won't clear the Detroit Speed engine mounts, but f I ever want to turn up power the HH will work with same headers in the current 68 Falcon with DSE front end.
How much cylinder press were you running before? I remember seeing your build on my other post when we were building the 430W. That's the Achilles of the TW R head is the spark plug boss in the chamber. Was it an older casting? Not sure if this problem still occurs with newer castings? Cool build by the way!

 

I'm pretty sure those TW R Series can be welded up and make a good NA head without tons of cylinder pressure or Nitrous. Good to know the Brodix HH is the same exhaust adapter as the TW R Series because I'm having another set made since the ones I had made by Sanderson won't clear the Detroit Speed engine mounts, but f I ever want to turn up power the HH will work with same headers in the current 68 Falcon with DSE front end.
How much cylinder press were you running before? I remember seeing your build on my other post when we were building the 430W. That's the Achilles of the TW R head is the spark plug boss in the chamber. Was it an older casting? Not sure if this problem still occurs with newer castings? Cool build by the way!

Not sure on the cylinder pressure, it was 9:1 compression, 20 psi of boost with a mid 250s duration solid roller and a 112 lobe seperation. I would have to get out the cam card to get it completely right. The pressure seemed very reasonable because it was very tolerant of timing, I was at about 26 degrees all in when it scorched a piston. It went lean on the passenger side bank and I think that was because of the Holley system (long story)

The cracked R heads were just building a little pressure in the cooling system under boost. There was never any water in the oil or the intake ports that I could see. They were very old castings, I bought them around 20 years ago so they were "fully depreciated".

 

that o-ring setup looks awesome!

how much of an adder was it?

View attachment 1094688 View attachment 1094689

 

Do you mean cost? It was done with the porting of the intake.

 

Here is the old beater going down the track on the last couple of passes it made. I am getting rid of the flowmasters and going to some bullet mufflers this time out.

 

Are you using the diagonal bolt pattern or the horizontal for your headers? Can you post pics please? Thanks.

 

I use the horizontal bolt holes. I don't have any pictures of the headers on the car though. I may have some pictures of the headers off of the car though. I will check.

 

This is the only pic I have of them.

 

You'll have to pulley it way down to only make 20psi with a F2. I slowed mine down and it still made 20psi by 6700rpm on a Highport 434. 26psi at 7500rpm

 

77 tooth crank pulley and 54 tooth blower pulley makes 20-21 psi at 7,000 engine rpm for me with a filter on the blower inlet. I have a procharger bellmouth inlet that will add a few psi but I have not tried it yet.

 

What was different between the 2 runs?

you picked up almost 9 MPH on that second run

hell yeah BTW…forums need more of this content… been getting soft around here lately lol

 

We were adding a degree of peak timing at a time on each of those runs while also playing with the struts to try to pick up some 60 ft. I believe that 144 mph was a mistake in the track's timing system. I think the 136mph is probably more accurate.

 

What’s your peak boost # and timing at?

I’m at 20/20 on E85, I trap a tad quicker but et a bit slower 1.5 60s

 

20 to 21 psi was the peak boost and it makes around 7-8 psi on the transbrake stalling at 4,400. Timing on the 9.45 pass was 26 at the peak but my compression was around 9:1. It was fine with the 26 degrees of timing but one bank went lean and scorched piston #1. Target AFR was 11.5 but one bank of the engine went up into the 13s. I believe this was a Holley software issue, as it has happened to others when using some of the version 5 software. 60 foot was 1.41.

The plan with this new build is to run the latest Holley software and run a 10.8:1 AFR.

 

No I don’t know the temp difference, I no longer have the data logs. This is how I did it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

View attachment 1094869
View attachment 1094870
No I don’t know the temp difference, I no longer have the data logs. This is how I did it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice. Who built the carb?

 

Nice build you have there. I'm using the 15 degree head hunters with a dart SHP 9.5 block. Was thinking either turbo or with what you have. Great to finally see some reviews and thoughts on the HH, and the car combinations. Seems like not many people are using them in the forums. Good luck with the car.

 

Nice fuel bowls.

 

I got the shortblock on the stand and took a few pics today. You can see in the last pic that the Brodix HH head seems to take a standard valve relief that is just slightly modified for the 15 degree angle. This works perfectly for me since if this shortblock survives its tour of duty this summer I am going to be putting it in a 1994 Cobra that I own which has high ports.

 

It is moving along at a glacial pace but damn it, it is moving.

 

Glacial pace seems to be the new norm. See you are set up to measure pickup to pan clearance. That cost me a set of bearings once. Dismissed it since the pickup came with the pan. After modifying the pickup all was good.

 

To me it is one of those mission critical measurements, it is hard for me to sleep at night if that box is not checked.

 

The camshaft is now degreed. I also determined that I need a .180" offset (Yates style) lifter in order for the intake pushrod to clear the intake port.

 

One thing I noticed is that the spark plug does not go all the way into the chamber. Brodix lists the head as taking a 14mm gasketed plug with a .750" reach. I am wondering if I may need a little more reach. This is an NGK-R5671-8 plug installed which is a .750" reach.

 

Might try a tapered seat plug if there is any chamfer in the plug hole.

 

Good idea. I was thinking that or going with no gasket, whittling the gasket down or something similar. I also have not verified that they are actually .750" reach, maybe some other brand is slightly longer even though they are the same spec.

 

Just hog out the chambers around the plug...

ks

 

With a socket?