That's what I've been using and top coating with their chassis black.
So far so good. Stuff is tough as nails.

I used sander and wire wheel and had two small areas of scale. I wiped them with Fast Etch then wiped with their Pre and then used Rust Encapsulatot as their was some very small pitting of the areas. For the majority of the car which has non rusted areas I used their chassis black primer and then chassis black.

You don't want Rust Encapsulator on non rusted bare metal, use those regular primer for those areas.

 

my biggest problem is i dont have a lift...and my house garage is really small to work in....i can use my brother-in-laws lift (almost an hr drive to his house) but i think at most i can have that to myself for a week maybe...

 

I've been using Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator and Rust Converters for years. I also use Eastwoods Rust Dissolver - both the traditional and their jell (works on vertical surfaces). I prefer a needle scaler to a wire wheel, at least for the big stuff.

My first project was an 8.8 housing that was severely rusted with losts of scale. Ran the needle scaler over it a bunsh of times, brushed on the rust dissolver and repeated. After it appeared as good as it would get, I brushed on the Encapsulator (I didn't use the Converter on this application - but should have). That housinig has been under the car now for about six years and the Encapsulator is still doing its job. The only places it has "failed" if one considers it as such, is where I scratched it off with a floor jack. Otherwise, no rust on that housing despite the harsh environment.

Since then I've done a lot of small pieces including caliper mounts, rotor centers (hub mount and in the vane areas), other suspension parts and badly rusted fenders under the extensions. In each case, the Eastwood stuff does a great job, is easy to work with isn't any worse in the smell department than a typical can of spray paint.

I would recommend the following procedure: (i) mechanical rust removal if possable; (ii) rust dissolver (again if possable); (iii) rust converter; and (iv) rust encapulator. I've never used their Pre (I use a thinner or brake clean) or their etching primer because most of the time I'm saving a very rusted piece that is pitted. If you want a top coat, that is fine but I pretty much leave the Encapsulator as the top coat unless black is not the final color (rarely).

 

Liked mentioned above, don't apply rust encapsulator to non-rusty metal. It doesn't bond very well. Just prime those areas instead.

 

Its tough cuz my car has small amonts of scale on most the undercarriage.... also need to coat my welds on my suspension components...my friend said i could use his lift but i have to hose off the undercarriageafter using the metal ready?.....doont know if i will be able to use a hose in ther?

 

I used a spray bottle with warm water, wiped it down with clean rags, and then followed it with a leaf blower to remove any standing water.

 

Good idea....just assumed a hose was needed to thoroughly rinse...

 

anyone know how much product it will take to do the undercarriage of a foxbody?

eastwood brush or spray can version better?

 

OP- Be sure to use a product like Metal Ready (by POR15) it is a light acid that removes existing oxygen in the rust. It will bubble a bit and it works. After that, you can apply whatever top coat you choose. POR15 *silver* is the toughest I have seen. But again, until you've removed the rust completely, all you're doing is painting over it and the rust will come back Remove it physically via brush or sanding discs and a compressor than metal ready it+seal with your paint

 

why not one more....

If you want one more step/approach to consider. After you prep the undercarriage (wire wheel, brush, flapper, whatever you prefer). Treat the metal with a mix of 3 to 1 water and vinegar. Scrub the carriage with a 3m pad and the mix. Let it sit for an hour and come back and wash it down (use a hose and a fresh 3m pad). Then dry it, use an air hose if you got one.

As to eastwood or por-15 I have used both and overwhelmingly prefer the por-15. Got to do two coats and then shoot it with your choice of paint or liner. If you can put the por on on a nice humid day. Po-15 loves humidity.

You can use metal-ready before the por if you like. The vinegar will attack the rust and help nuetralize it. Then you have to apply some method of sealing (eastwood or por15).

Of course rust is still rust. None of the suggestions we have given are likely to be permanent. But it will last if you do the job right.

 

I've moved from using rattle can to spray gun for bigger applications, such as the under carriage. The reason I use Eastwood products is due to ease of use. The combo is user friendly with very little necessary prep. Of course, doing all of the mechanical stuff helps longevity but for the pieces I do 6-7 years is plenty.

As for pretreatment, the Eastwood converter is a good product and only needs to be sprayed on and left to do it's thing (generally 24-48 hours). It neutralizes the rust and seals it for top coating. I follow with the encapsulater, and then a real top coat as necessary.

A note to users of the converter. If going with a lacquer top coat the converter must be primed first - I use the encapsulater.

 

I did my 65 mustang under carriage with a small sand blaster and a bunch of wire wheels and then i por-15 the whole thing. then i primed it with red oxide primer and after all that i purchased a gallon of bed liner and sprayed the entire framed and body. I probably went over board for a fair weather car, but it will not rust again. mine was no rust through just surface rust.