Scat 4340 crank, Scat Pro 4340 I beam rods w/ ARP 2000 rod bolt and Probe 2618 forged pistons, neutral balanced.

but either one is fine. friend has eagle 4340 and Probe 2618 in his 364 stroker and puts down 1400rwhp, neutral balanced. he just turned a 5.05 in the 1/8 mile.

what r u planning for heads and intake?

 

I can tell you from using both brands many times, the scat crank will be better out of the box as far as sizing on the journals. The eagle will go internal with only drilling on a 1600-1700 gram bobweight. I avoid eagle at all costs due to there sizing which has alot to be desired.

 

no disrespect cuz you clearly build way more stuff than i do, but eagle definitely makes an out of the box internally balanced 347 kit, as i have one sitting under the hood of my car out in the garage.

now granted that's not a 347 big bore, would be a 363 with the large bore, but according to the catalog i ordered from they make a 331 kit too, wich would be 347 with the 4.125 piston, no?

 

as far as heads i was going to get the twisted wedge cnc 205's. i was going to try to reuse my performer rpm 2 intake but i think that might be my down fall. whats your recomendation for heads and intake?

some more info on what i want to do: this will be a s/c motor, right now im making 17.5 lb boost. with meth.

im trying to reuse what i can from my 306 motor most of it will not work.

 

302/306 parts belong on 302/306.

Heads a 225cc head. TFS HP 225, TFS-R 225, dart Pro 1 225, or maybe even a TFS 235 or 245cc head ftom TEA.

intake - victor efi full race ported or super victor with CHP elbow.

 

I heard that Eagle's tolerances are a lot tighter than Scat's, too tight. Although Scat's castings look rougher, their machining is top notch and a lot more reasonable. This is what I HEAR, though. I'm running an Eagle 393.

 

ported systemax

 

I've also heard a lot of machinists say bad things about Eagle and good things about Scat. Can't argue with the guys who know what a good piece has to look like.

Take it from Jim, if all else fails.

 

Some people like chocolate, some people like vanilla........

 

I can say that I bought an eagle 4340 crank and it LOOKED great out of the box.

I took it over to Moldex to get a 2nd keyway cut and they checked the journals for me...

I'm so glad they did because not ONE was the proper size all the way across.

All of the journals were the right size in the center (where I plastigauged them!) but the leading edge would be 1-2 thou small and the trailing edge would be +1-2 thou tight!

I now have a nice brand new .10/.10 eagle crank with perfectly straight journals and a pocket that's about $200 lighter...

Live and learn I suppose. At least I didn't waste my motor.

 

This is exactly what I am talking about, very common. Atleast in all my dealings with the eagle cranks.

 

Decaf....I recommend it.......:joy:


Nice car, incidentally.

 

That's a Dart IE 364 stroker with Probe 2618 10:1 forged flat tops, 4340 eagle crank and 4340 eagle rods, neutral balanced, built by L & R.

who would have thought 4340 could hold so much power. That motor has not been apart in three years.

Danny Swanson tuned this beast on a stock computer when it had 905/780 to the tire, then went to a F2 and 24 lbs and put down 1150, still tuned on a stock computer. The owner then went to DFI and then added 6 lbs and went gear driven. It has more left.

 

ya your right. sorry to make you mad!!

 

I've never had a Scat crank but I do have an Eagle 4340 (3.25 w/ 4.125 bore 347). It took a ton of mallory to bring this thing to balance which means.. mallory+machine time=big bucks. I'm not sure what the cost difference is if you were to step up to a higher dollar crank, but it may offset the difference you'll spend in making the Eagle correct. That's my experience.. maybe they're better now then they were 8 yrs ago when I bought mine.