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Coyote swap - F150 motor

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107K views 172 replies 44 participants last post by  dshart08  
#1 ·
I've done a couple swaps already and I'm wanting to do another. This time with a the F-150 variant. I know others have done it but I would like to see a true comparison, power wise, with headers, intake and tune. It'll prolly take me a little longer to complete since I have a lot of things going on and I'm trying to keep this one a little more budget friendly.

Here's the car I'm gonna be using. Originally a 4 cyl auto car that I'll be switching to manual. Overall in pretty good condition.


I picked up the motor this afternoon and started tearing off some stuff that I knew I wouldn't need. Let me tell you... that cast crap is heavy and the motor mounts are ridiculously heavy. I took the intake off just to clean it up a bit.


There's been a lot of talk about the intake... looks identical to the GT intake if you ask me. It doesn't have the gromets in the top to attach the 5.0 cover but it does have the holes for the gromets. Since I can't run a cover on my Factory Stock car I pulled the gromets from there and put them on the F-150 motor. The F150 heater hoses may cause some interference with running the cover. I also swapped the fuel rail insulators between the two.


As mentioned by others... the timing cover is a little different on the F150. This motor is from a 2011 so don't know if there are changes between the years. It doesn't have the hole tapped for the pulley just to the right of the water pump. From pictures I've seen online, it doesn't need it. I'll just have to figure out the right length belt since the Boss alternator belt is a touch too long. The bolts from the Boss alternator kit fit the F150 alternator so I'll have to size them and get some duplicates.
 
#32 ·
Thanks!

Pretty much got everything tightened up and I'm ready to set this thing on the ground. I've ran it through a couple heat cycles and everything seems good. I still need to align the front wheels some and get the exhaust made before I can really get it out on the road. Not sure when my exhaust guy can fit me in.
 
#113 ·
Hey, I have read all your responses, and I'm actually in the same direction with my 1987 Notch, however I haven't got my motor from a F150. I'm purchasing through JEGS. I have already installed completed a 1995 full Cobra suspension, braking system and a new 3:73 Ford Motorsport rear end that hasn't felt the road as of yet. My 1987 has just been painted, and looking forward in continuing my project towards completion. Did you have most of the work done from a shop or DIY? Reason being is because I'm seeking for a place for proper professional install..

Mike
New Jersey
 
#33 ·
I'm subscribing as well. I've been researching this for awhile now. My car is just a stripped down track car weighing 2660 without my 210 fat ass. Anyway what needs to be wired in to run just the motor. My car is a carbed 79 that I run the pump and fan on a switch. Can I run it that way with the control pack?

I was just looking at the tank pickup...what fuel line is that?
 
#34 ·
My car is a carbed 79 that I run the pump and fan on a switch. Can I run it that way with the control pack?
yes, while the control pack has provisions for both, you don't have to use them. Same goes for the ignition switch. I run my fuel pump and fan off of the same toggle switches that I did with my previous pushrod setup. I also didn't change anything on my ignition switch, other than splicing in a 12V signal wire to the control pack.
 
#36 ·
Fuel line is Earl's Super Stock.

I'm running the stock pan. GT and F150 look the same to me. I normally massage the K-member and/or use spacers under the motor mounts.
 
#39 ·
What did you do for the brakes and power steering?? Awsome build!
 
#41 ·
What manual brakes and rack did you go with?
 
#43 ·
Hows thebstopping power with the manual setup?
 
#45 ·
Ok nive man im.looking into doing a swap on my fox and just getting inputs at this time ive read that the hydroboost systems gotta be modify or get.one made the swap but there like 900 bucks! Also man could you use the stock fuel lines you think ?
 
#46 ·
you could use the stock lines up to the engine compartment. Then you have switch to AN adapters in order to run fuel hose so you can hook up the return style fuel pressure regulator and connect to the fuel rail.

I don't think the hydroboost has to be modified, but you will have to modify the firewall and relocate the pin on on the stock brake pedal arm.
 
#47 ·
Cool man will look into ! Thanks for the info
 
#49 ·
Unfortunately, the great deal on the T5 I picked up wan't so great. Went to back it out the garage yesterday and it had a repetitious clunk. Only in reverse. I was suppose to take it to the shop today and start on the exhaust but ended up pulling the trans out to see what was going on. There was a tooth broken off the reverse gear idler. It's back together now and we should be doing the exhaust tomorrow.

While the sleeper concept is cool


you gotta love not having to worry about traction
 
#51 ·
^^^^ agree!!! Haha
 
#53 ·
I believe you're correct on the fuel rule... if you go to a NHRA track.

It's a Summit universal that I wanted to try out. Not bad for the price! No requirement for the coyote to use one this big.
 
#56 ·
Just some random thoughts... Having bought a brand new crate motor and had the oil pump gears break in the first 100 miles... cost wise, I really think a used F150 motor is the way to go. If you are going to utilize the coyote engine to it's limits you're going to need to change the oil pump gears (although Ford says they haven't had a oil pump gear failure with stock damper). Why buy a brand new motor (at full price) when you have to open it up in order to change things? The F150 pistons are only .5 lower in compression, GT intake cams aren't expensive and a GT timing cover is like $160 (that's only if you really want to change those). The power output of the F150 is only like 20hp less than the GT motor. Is that really worth $4k???

If you're gonna push a lot of boost... I think it would definately be cheaper to buy a F150 motor, tear it down and put new stuff in it
 
#57 ·
I gotta agree with you on the truck engine route. That's my plan for a 2003 V6 car I just picked up. Should be a fun street beater.

I may have missed it, but what has been your method to tie into the speed sensor? Or do you even bother? My CS setup would be a pain in the ass on the street since it never wants to idle when coming to a stop, but since we're not allowed to tie into the harness, I haven't really researched the "fix".