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Coyote swap - F150 motor

107K views 172 replies 44 participants last post by  dshart08  
#1 ·
I've done a couple swaps already and I'm wanting to do another. This time with a the F-150 variant. I know others have done it but I would like to see a true comparison, power wise, with headers, intake and tune. It'll prolly take me a little longer to complete since I have a lot of things going on and I'm trying to keep this one a little more budget friendly.

Here's the car I'm gonna be using. Originally a 4 cyl auto car that I'll be switching to manual. Overall in pretty good condition.


I picked up the motor this afternoon and started tearing off some stuff that I knew I wouldn't need. Let me tell you... that cast crap is heavy and the motor mounts are ridiculously heavy. I took the intake off just to clean it up a bit.


There's been a lot of talk about the intake... looks identical to the GT intake if you ask me. It doesn't have the gromets in the top to attach the 5.0 cover but it does have the holes for the gromets. Since I can't run a cover on my Factory Stock car I pulled the gromets from there and put them on the F-150 motor. The F150 heater hoses may cause some interference with running the cover. I also swapped the fuel rail insulators between the two.


As mentioned by others... the timing cover is a little different on the F150. This motor is from a 2011 so don't know if there are changes between the years. It doesn't have the hole tapped for the pulley just to the right of the water pump. From pictures I've seen online, it doesn't need it. I'll just have to figure out the right length belt since the Boss alternator belt is a touch too long. The bolts from the Boss alternator kit fit the F150 alternator so I'll have to size them and get some duplicates.
 
#3 ·
Thanks Mike. Actually, this is swap #4. I am helping a local shop do one for a customer, which is #3. I just got that one fired up yesterday. There is still a lot to do but my part is on hold till after the NMRA race in Bowling Green.

Right now, #4 is ahead of schedule. I got the old 2.3/trans out, pulled the computer/wiring and dropped the stock K-member. Today, I picked up a set of V-8 spindles and unexpectedly scored a UPR conversion k member and motor mounts locally. Now I want to push to get the bay cleaned up, order the headers and control pack. I thought I had a trans locked in but the guy sold it out from under me.
 
#5 ·
I've got a little over 40 hours in the last one, but it really depends on what all needs to be done. If you want to talk specifics hit me up thru PM.
 
#8 ·
I got a question, what lower radiator hose you use on your swaps?
I purchased the lower rad swap hose from late model resto but it appears to be too long.
 
#12 ·
yeah, T5 out of a 93. Hell, I'm even gonna run the 7.5 rear for a while! That's what's nice about the quicktime being dual pattern. I can swap in a TKO later on.

It's in there!
 
#15 ·
UPR k-member.

That's the plan. I've always wanted a sleeper and I think this will be it. Leaving the wheels... even the mud flaps. It'll be pretty unispiring until the hood gets popped or the engine gets fired.
 
#17 ·
found this over on SVTperformance. F-150 motor swap and the same tuner I use.
Dyno tuning completed today at Revolution Automotive in Baltimore. Those guys are great and Adam really knows his Coyotes!

Car put down 390 RWHP/395 RWTQ before detuning it for my weight. I was super pleased with these numbers, obviously. I'll see if I can get the video posted up.
 
#18 ·
I seen that too. Pretty impressive for a truck motor. It is on a different dyno then from your other car though so it is kinda apples to oranges. If you run it on the same dyno it will be more of an apples to apples comparison.
 
#20 ·
Very Cool. Sorry you said he used the same tuner above and I just didn't read it. I tell my kids to read all the words. I need to take my own advice. He said that there may be more in it, but was going to detune it a bit for class rules. I've seen low mileage F150 coyotes in my area going for about $2500. It sounds like with $1500 for the control pack and another say $2500 in miscellaneous costs(k-member, manual brake/steering conversion, bell housing) you could take a Fox and run in the 11s for say $6500- $7000. If you granny shift the T5 without slicks it could hang together for a while till a Tremec comes into play. Do you think that you'll be in that ball park as far as cost goes or am I way off base?
 
#21 ·
If you already had a half way decent V8 fox with a manual setup, it's possible. I'm a couple thousand over your estimate, but I bought pretty much everything (That's including car, trans, clutch pedal assembly, V8 spindles and 8.8 -stuff that's not really associated with the swap itself). I also bought a little extra- tuner and JLT intake - so I could get it tuned to get a good comparison. Plus I got the Quicktime Bell instead of just the aluminum bell. You'll have to consider labor if you can't do the stuff yourself.
 
#22 ·
I would plan on doing the labor myself aside from the tune. I put together a couple 351Cs over the years. I'm in the process of swapping a 351CJ and toploader into my 74 Montego wagon right now. I would really like to have a fun reliable car that I can drive daily in the summer. While the 351Cs I have are fun the one in my 72 only made 400hp at the crank and can be a little temperamental. The Idea of a 400rwhp driver that acts like it is stock because it is stock is very appealing. I think I would love a coyote swapped Fairmont wagon.
 
#23 ·
Haven't been pushing hard, but I have been moving forward. Car is now a clutch car and has a new heater core. Once I switch the speedo cable I can put the dash back together.


Got a chance to finish the back half of the fuel system


Finally figured out what I wanted to do with the cooling system. Experimenting with a Summit radiator and Contour fans.


Some of the control pack electrical is wired up. Really just need to get the battery relocation stuff so I can fire this beast up. Then it's on to the brakes...
 
#27 ·
I space the k-member down and either space the engine up or "modify" the k-member cross bar to clear the oil pan.

I've used American Racing Headers and BBK. Haven't tried the Kooks yet