I would go as big as your mass air and TB or bigger.

The AFM Power pipe is like 4" and is considered to be about the best CAI

 

My throttle body is a 70mm which equals 2.75"
My (current) mass air meter is 73mm which equals 2.87"
I'm thinking of upgrading to a 76mm which equals 2.99"

I just wasn't sure if the air coming in is going through a 2.87" opening in the mass air meter then through a larger intake tube 3.5" or 4.0" then back down to a 2.75" opening in the throttle body is going to make much sense or does it really not matter since it is naturally aspirated and the engine is only going to bring in what it needs?

 

4" and get it as straight as possible.

 

Anderson 4 inch PowerPipe.

 

Save money and make your own.

 

4"

 

make sure you have about 8-10 inchs of straight before the mass so it can get a good air reading

 

what if your tube puts the meter in the fenderwell? I'll likely make my own and get it welded up then powder coated. Looks much cleaner as one piece IMO.

not sure you can get 8 inches before the meter and get the filter and all on the end of the tube

 

I run an Anderson 4in n/a powerpipe but even with a 75mm tbody you have to use a coupling to reduce to the throttle body size. I'd like to think the correct pipe size would be to match your throttle body size but im not 100% sure on that. You will not move any more air than the throttle body can process. That being said having the least amount of restriction before the throttle body is key.

 

I run an Anderson 4in n/a powerpipe but even with a 75mm tbody you have to use a coupling to reduce to the throttle body size.

Buy a 75mm Accufab Race TB and you wont have that problem.

 

make your own out of 4 inch save the extra $

 

I have a 4inch power pipe with a 75mm race tb on my stock bore 302 with Brodix heads. Runs pretty good

 

Why not measure WOT vacuum on the intake BEFORE making the change?? Vacuum gauges are cheap and then you will know for sure what and if it makes a difference??

If vacuum under WOT is very very low, you are getting all the air you need. Let me give a boosted example with pressure.


My Vortech blower made 6-7 pounds of boost with the factory Vortech air filter setup and 73 mm MAF meter. I changed to a 90 mm 2003 Cobra MAF meter and made my own smooth wall tapered reducer to match it to the Vortech blower inlet hose. I cut some length off the flexible inlet hose so it stretched more to smooth the wall and I also changed the air filter to the biggest surface area filter I could find. These were the ONLY changes I made.

The boost, measured in the intake manifold, went from around 6-7 pounds up to about 14 pounds or so. I doubled the boost only by changing air filter, smoothing out the curved hose, and going from the 73 mm to 90 mm MAF.

Just for grins I put the stock Vortech air filter back on with a tapered reducer to match the Cobra MAF, and boost dropped back to 9-10 pounds.

I don't see why you can't do the same type of test so you know what you are doing with vacuum, and just look for lowest possible plenum vacuum at WOT. Then you don't have to guess.

Tom

 

I run a 3.5" aluminum tube to a reducing elbow to my 70mm Accufab TB. The other end Is a L 90mm MAF reduced to 3.5". It works well and was pretty cheap to build.

 

Just because it is bigger doesn't mean it is better. A well executed 3.5" IMO will be better than a poorly executed 4".

If tuning is an option I would look into using a newer style stock slot sensor. I am using one in a tapered 4"-4.5" pipe about 16" long and works great.

A 3.5" pipe using this sensor will be good to 1400 kg/hr and 350rwhp give or take.

 

I see what you are saying but your theory is retarded. How can you have a "poorly executed" CAI? In this situation bigger is better. Match the piping size to your MAF. If you have a Lightning 90mm MAF then run a 4" intake piping. AFM has shown that even on a stock 5.0 their 4" powerpipe makes more power than a smaller one such as the BBK or MAC.

 

My theory is don't coble something together half a$$ and just because it is 4" it'll be OK or better.

Never said the AFM was poorly executed. Never owned one. IMO every bend and every joint or step is going to be a compromise.

So a 90mm meter is 4" Last time I measured my wilson 90mm TB it was 3.75" O.D. at the flange. Maybe a MAF is different.

 

My 90mm Lightning MAF is 4" and my Accufab 90mm TB is also 4". The absolute best CAI setup would be a 45 degree elbow from the TB into a 4" straight shot with the MAF and filter in the fender as low as possible (without having to worry about water if it rains). Here is a pic.

Here is how mine is setup. I think I am leaving some power on the table, especially when the engine bay gets hot. I plan to go to the above setup soon.

I run a JLT 99 GT heat shield that is not installed in this picture.

 

Those look good. Very similar to my setup. I'd love to post a pic but....I'll try to figure something out.

 

[/IMG]

 

^ That is the way to do it. Looks kinda funny though with it being on the wrong side though. LOL

 

Extra clearance for the hood.

 

Maybe helpful for parts.
Heres some links Ive been looking at when ever I decide to make mine.

http://www.mass-air.com/Products.htm#OBD%20Adapter
http://www.racepartsolutions.com/products.asp?cat=49
http://www.racepartsolutions.com/categories.asp?cat=26
http://www.airflowonline.com/rubberparts.html
http://www.intakehoses.com/

 

Great links. I'm planning to get some stuff from some of them. I can't wait to build the new 45 degree setup. Just going to suck cutting the fender more.

 

all these open elements inside the engine bay are hurting you guys.

you have to go all the way back to the 60's to find any OEM car sucking hot air out of the engine bay.

 

You obviously can't read

 

This is what i did, make your own setup, with plastic i went with 3.5 inch diameter

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aid-100-400

 

nice. I guess that doesn't need to be welded lol lol. I do not want clamps though so whats the options to connect it? I want to powder coat it also and hopefully they can coat plastic

Any pics of yours

 

The longer the intake tubing, the larger it needs to be.

 

94 GT. 359ci.
Port matched RPM2 to a Fox Accufab 80mm Race TB.
EGR Delete.
80mm TB spacer.
MC Machine Throttle cable bracket.

Trimmed Silicone couplers from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CB21ZUY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CB23HXM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

90mm Lightning MAF near fender.

Heatwrap on a custom 4" Aluminum tube, trimmed to length:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000QFN3EE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S8WV71I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

JLT Molded Plastic Heat Shield (HSJLT102V)

Amsoil EAAU4090-EA filter in the fenderwell. (see third pic comparing this filter in blue to the tiny one that came with the American Muscle SR Performance 94/95 CAI)

I had to slightly trim the opening of the fender-to-engine bay for access, also chose to get some bungs for PCV connections and AIT sensor placement in inlet tube (the way a '94 is designed). Welding the aluminum bungs to the inlet tube cost a pretty penny at the local fabricator, but it was done once and done right. Clamps were 4" t-bolt style from somewhere online.

The airflow through the MAF changed dramatically when I changed the parts in front of the Manifold. The original 94/95 setup with 75mm TB, 3.5" tube to 4" MAF, back to 3.5" tube and small air filter was less than ideal. (see second pic below).

The tune was adjusted for the new airflow and all is good.
This route isn't easy and isn't cheap, but it works well and is a straight shot with the least amount of turns possible.

Just thought I'd share some experience.

 

Nice man and I appreciate the informative information. Might be easier to ask some questions via phone if you want to let me know and I'll PM ya. Through my research the past few days and comparing cost and time and maybe a little headache through the whole process of making my own and at the same time searching for used ones, It looks like the 96-04 GT ones are the exact shape I need. It also appears that the length will work as well and any adjustments needed can be solved by a different coupling for the tb end.

First I looked at new ones then checked ebay and found a chrome one for 44 bucks shipped. Now at first I wanted to get it powder coated to match the intake so that was another reason for wanting a pipe that needed to be finished. I thought it out and thought it out and I'll just go with chrome since I'll have some chrome components under the hood and will just make sure I have everything proportionate. For me now it's all about dressing it up in proportions. Not too much or too little of that as far as color matching. So yeah that should work for me but I will use your idea for the 400 W I'll do for the other car after I build the 331.

This guy on stangnet or sn95forums ( If you want to check it out and let me know whatcha think just google " Home made cold air pipe" and it should be the third row I believe. You'll see the pvc looking intake and it's a silver older edelbrock intake and his name is fastgtfairlane) used pvc to make his homemade pipe and said all in all it turned out fine for him with some adjustments to the throttle cable. I thought about it but the fact that it couldn't be powder coated and you could see where they join together as in some portions have lips was not the route I wanted to go. Now the concept I do like as far as how he used his SN throttle body actually the same one I have. I have a 70 pp polised tb that I've had since around 05 so I'll reuse it. Also get to re-use the IAC and tps. It's the first I've ever seen done but I'm going to give it a try. I damn sure don't like and won't route the throttle cable across the top of the intake and use the intake bolt to secure the bracket lol. But it worked for him so not going to bash him

Looks like you have a coupling near the fender where it goes into the fender. So is it a coupling off the tb that connects the straight 4 inch piece, then a coupling at the end to turn another piece of pipe into the fender? Also what's the wrap looking thing on your intake and are those zip ties or clamps or something? Is yours going into the first hole in the fender or the stock pipe location?

How much did it cost to get your stuff welded up? Just want to factor in cost vs buying a 4 inch pipe for the other motor and still getting it powder coated possibly.

Is a throttle body spacer a necessity for doing the fox style or even what I'm going to do with using my SN tb or is it more for allowing that extra spacing for the throttle cable?

Lastly, I see you have your intake shaven. I saw on SN95source where 95riosnake did that with his and had a cobra emblem machined. Man that thing looks awesome. I started to go that route but it's going to be too too costly and though it would look good, I can't see doing all of that plus I still want to powder coat the intake. But it would look good though man.

pics of the shaved intake will be in next comment

 

his shaved intake pics

 

last 2 pics

 

Any images of inside the fenderwell? Want to see the meter