* Run a KOEO self test: It will cycle both low and high fan speeds. This is a quick tell to see if the circuit is intact.

* Disconnect the ECT electrical connector and start the car, the low speed fan will come on.

* Ground CCRM Pin 17, the fan will come on high.

* Apply 12 volts (fused) to CCRM Pin 14, low fan speed will come on.

* MAX AC will turn high fan speed on.

Other possibilities: Plugged radiator, blown head gasket or water pump.

What temperatures are you looking for the fan speeds to come on at?

Good luck

 

MP, thank you for the info! I will be doing this in the AM. I don't know when it should come on, just sometime before it starts to get too hot, really. Nothing worse than worrying about something overheating, especially when it's ALL STOCK.

Water pump and thermostat are brand new. Ford reman on the water pump, and Stant on the 180* thermostat. Don't know about the radiator, it seems in good shape (outside). I rebuilt the engine 4 months ago, about 3k miles. Runs like a beast. The fan was working until recently.

I have a actual OBD-1 code reader. Are you saying to plug in to the ECC test port and see what comes up and it will automatically run the fans? I have done it a while back, but don't remember the fans cycling (but I wasnt looking for it).

 

I have a actual OBD-1 code reader. Are you saying to plug in to the ECC test port and see what comes up and it will automatically run the fans? I have done it a while back, but don't remember the fans cycling (but I wasnt looking for it).

Just ground the grey plug next to the EEC-test plug and it will start the KOEO self test or use your code reader to start the KOEO self test. . You should hear the low speed fan come on to 1 secs and then switch to the high fan speed for 1 sec. If both fans come on then your wiring and CCRM are fine.

 

MP, I plugged in my scanner and it ran the test. Only came up with code 332 for the EGR that I deleted. That will be taken care of soon (quarterhorse software).

Everything passed check. Both fan speeds came on. I finally let it idle to see how hot it would get and the low fan did came on. It got to the A on 'normal' before it did come on though (my cluster was professionally calibrated a couple months ago, $200) So, I bought a new gauge sender switch ($12) and I'm putting that into the car to see if maybe just the gauge is just reading high and freaking me out.

So, maybe we need to get back to the cooling basics here. Stock type radiator. Brand new Stant radiator 16lb cap. Brand new ford casting reman water pump, brand new stant 180* tstat, as mentioned above. I have installed the Vortech 1-piece dual -belt crank pulley (measures roughly just shy of 6" diameter) and the matching Vortech water pump pulley (measures roughly 4.5" diameter).

Should I increase the radiator cooling capacity?

 

Your stock radiator is fine unless the fins are clogged. If you can't determine how old it is, it may be a good time to replace it with another stock Ford radiator. Are you still running the air deflector on the bottom of the car? I would use a 18psi radiator cap to raise the boiling point providing the stk. radiator can take 18psi (I don't know if it can).

Griffin Radiator - Radiator Tips

 

MP, I don't remember seeing a air deflector on bottom of it...

I'd hate to replace a non leaking radiator as a guess but I dont think the fins are clogged since the A/C takes most of the rock damage, anyhow. But what about a higher capacity radiator to help with cooling? The thing doesn't get hot when driving mainly idling after it reaches normal temp. I swear maybe it's just the gauge reading high..... I guess should get a actual tempature reading before I go any further...

 

MP, I don't remember seeing a air deflector on bottom of it...
I guess should get a actual tempature reading before I go any further...

An air deflector will help with cooling and getting a temperature reading would be a good idea at this point.

 

i had a problem like this it turned out being plug going to fan was burnt so i cut plug off and put but connectors on plugged each wire in and was fine after that .

 

what exactly is the malfunction? Are you just worried because of how high the stock gauge gets before the low speed kicks on? IIRC, the low speed kicks on at 218 stock, which would read quite high on the stock gauge.

 

Thanks guys, and Well I am worried that it's getting too hot. I am not used to electric fans. All of my ford's with old school clutch fans have never let me down being as they are always turning. and WOW, 218* is kinda hot dont ya think??

 

Yes, it's pretty hot. It was done to burn more hydrocarbons to make the tree huggers happy. It can be adjusted with a chip though as well as a few other pesky SN5.0 issues. There's mail order chips you can get for a pretty good price.

But do check your connector going to your fan. They like to char up pretty good on the low speed because it's used the most. The wiring leading to that terminal also gets charred up as well so a good length of wire and a new plug (available at Ford dealers) will go along way!

 

NotA4.6, thanks I actually just thought about that tonight. I have quarterhorse software ready to install in the car! I'll have to have my friends look into it and see where to change the temp at which the fans come on. GENIUS! That 218* BS. I think it should come on at 200*

and MP thanks for the tip, I just ordered a OEM air deflector, mines all jacked up and bent back!

 

I always thought I had an issue with my stock fan. It would only kick on at 220 (autometer gauge). Tried forever to try and fix what was never broken. Stock computer calls for it to come on at that temp.

Installed Moates QH and reprogramed the cooling fan high/low temps and works awesome. Sits at 180 and never passes 200

 

Yup. Ford: "I know!! Let's build a performance car, but let's have it run super hot all the time because we all know that heat=HP!"

I swear, for every good thing the 94/95's brought to the table it was equally met with something bad. This is one of the bad things!

 

No doubt! Well sounds like I'll be getting this handled on Wednesday night! I'll post up results after the tune tweek. And the air deflector is on it's way, whoohoo! I'm gonna beat this heat this summer. Im getting ready to take it on a 3500 mile road trip so I'm getting everything squared away now!

 

Yea, the stock in dash "idiot" gauge is horrible at best.

You really need to get a gauge on it that will tell you actual coolant temp instead of trying to determine numbers by "letters"... LOL

Also to note - a 180* stat will not have any benefits unless you're actually going into the EEC to reprogram the fan logic (temps). The EEC is still going to want to operate the stock fan at its preprogrammed logic, period.

The only other way around changing when the fan comes on is to disconnect it from the stock harness and use an aftermarket fan controller. This will bypass the EEC logic and the fan(s) will come on at YOUR predetermined settings.

I have a dual 11" ramcharger fan set up, which is controlled by a heavy duty Hayden dual fan controller (bypassed the CCRM). The temp settings I set control when the fans kick on/off - more efficient than the stock program (and higher CFM's than the stock single 16" fan).

I also have a 97 Cobra A/C condenser, which is far superior in fin design than the prior 79-95 5.0 condensers. It is plug-n-play. The fins on the later model condenser are designed like a radiator, opened & spread apart more, not dense fin construction. This allows more air to pass through/over the condenser AND to flow through/over the radiator as well, maximizing cooling efficiency for both A/C and cooling system. Search my user ID using "condenser" as search term and you can find out more info about that upgrade.

Radiator = Fluidyne (3rd replacement, search my user ID if you want to know more about Fluidyne failures - LOL).

I'm also running a high flow Ford Racing water pump (can be had brand new, not remanned from Summit Racing for $55).



My temp is monitored by an Auto Meter mechanical temp gauge.

 

Easy as pie, my friend (who is tuning my car) quarterhorsed it. Mine showed low speed fan to come on at 224* and high to come on at 228* WHAT A JOKE.

We changed to 185 for low and 190 for high. Now the car runs around the "O" on normal hehe.

Installing air deflector today. Probably don't need it, but sure can't help. Looks like I wont have to worry about the heat this summer!

 

where can i get a mailorder to turn the low speed fan at 180?

tired of the car running on the wrmer side nneeddd help

95 cobra

 

tired of the car running on the wrmer side nneeddd help

95 cobra

If your question is where can you find an aftermarket fan controller to use (thus bypassing the stock CCRM) -

Summit Racing, JEGS, or any number of auto performance web sites sell aftermarket fan controllers.

You just need to determine which controller suits your needs and will be able to handle whatever electric fan you intend to use (even if running stock). Make sure the controller specs can handle the load of the fan, you don't want to short circuit, have an inop fan or even possible and worse case scenario, a future engine fire.