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Car's getting there now

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2.3K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  r6rider  
#1 ·
Well guys its been since last summer that my car has been resting on its on tires instead of jack stands, well its not ready to do so right this minute, but iam getting closer.
I just go done placing an order from Maximum motorsports for my car. Kinda dissapointed since i really want to keep it simply untill i get the car out on the track and i learn how to drive it (road coarse, auto X,etc) no more drag racing. So anyway iam dissapointed because how i want to set-up the car for now i feel like iam wasting my time. I want to keep convention rear springs, but doing the coil over in the frt. The guy told me that iam really going to need a Torque arm, PHA (track bar), and then coilover's and adjustable swaybar for the rear for the car to really handle. I beleve the guy 100% but iam going to go way over my budget if i go that route so i just order what i wanted to order in the first place. and here is what i just ordered.

Frt Bilstein HD series struts with there coil over kit w/ 275 pound frt springs.
Rear Bilstien SN95 shocks (SN95 because i can convert them to coilover when the time comes the guy said).
HR Race rear 260-280 convention springs.
Using stock frt and rear sway bar for now I just order new endlinks and bushings for the frt swaybar.

I have CasterCamber plates on the car allready, Qa1 K member and control arm's (i know not the best to run but its what i have on the car for now.) Rear has Steeda upper double adjust control arm's and alum lower's. I have frt and rear cobra brake kit on the car, 03 Cobra rims (17x9) have to order tires next.
Anyway iam just going to get it togeather drive the hell out of it and maybe learn how to drive on the track with what i have. Thanks for reading.
Erik
 
#2 ·
I think you will enjoy it. I recently autocrossed 2 cars at the same event. One a completely stock fox and another fox with h&R sports, bilsteins, MM rear control arms & CC plates. I could not believe the difference in the two. 68 sec laps compared to 63 sec laps. I did experience some "snap oversteer" but the car was really fun to drive.
 
#3 ·
Yeah thanks, i think with the new motor/trans and suspension i will think iam driving a brand new car! I read on a few threads most of the time its the driver not the car, untill you get better at driving then improving the car will just help lap times and driving effort,etc.
Erik
 
#4 · (Edited)
Sounds like you are off to a good start. Your last post is is VERY true. Improving the driver has the biggest impact. After you improve yourself, you will be more able to see what is lacking in your car and then go from there.

The only problem I see with your purchase is your front spring rate. That is very soft. I am currently using the the H&R Race springs in the rear but I have 400# frt coil-overs. I daily drive my car and could always go stiffer comfortably. I would suggest seeing if you could swap the spring for at least 350# springs.

Also, you said you have C/C plates but didnt say whos.

The next thing I suggest adding would be a panhard bar. You will be able to run this without a torque arm as long as you have rubber in your upper control arms. This will get rid of a lot of the sloppiness in the rear end.

EDIT: forgot to mention that I am using MM's Race Bilsteins. I have heard that the HD Bils are good up to 350# coil-overs but I am not positive.

Also, if you do plan to upgrade to rear coil-overs and they haven't shipped your order yet, ask them to do the necassary grooving of the shock body for the rear coil-over kit. One less thing you will have to do when you convert the rear.
 
#5 ·
Ok first that was my thought on the frt spring rate also...it seemed kinda low, but i just went with what Chris from MM told me to get. Your right about the HD Bils i wrote it down and i think they are only good for 350 pounds also.

The Caster Camber plates are Steeda, iam not sure if they are bad or good, but for now atleast i have someway at adjusting my caster and camber (better then stock).

Iam going to purchase a PHB as soon as i recoupe from the order from MM and a complete Aeromotive fuel system i just bought also. I seen the thread on here about which one to get MM or Griggs, i guess iam just going to do a little think and see which one i'am going to buy.

I order the shocks for a SN95 body since Chris told me that they are allready threaded and when the time comes to convert to coilovers i won't have to buy new shocks for the back.

Well i guess i'll just install what i ordered and run the car that way, hopefully the frt end isn't to soft. Iam sure with these new struts, shocks, springs and reinstalling the frt sway bar is going to make me think the car handles like a new car.
Thanks
Erik
 
#6 ·
The Caster Camber plates are Steeda, iam not sure if they are bad or good, but for now atleast i have someway at adjusting my caster and camber (better then stock).
I believe the steeda plates are aluminum and it's been discussed that the aluminum may not be up to the task of a coilover set up; they may tend to bend under the loads. Hopefully someone else will clarify.

I order the shocks for a SN95 body since Chris told me that they are allready threaded and when the time comes to convert to coilovers i won't have to buy new shocks for the back.
Unless the design has changed I don't think the shock body is threaded. If I remember, the lower mounting of the sn95 units have a better design/weld more suited for a coilover application. The fox body specific ones were prone to breakage at the lower mounting. Regardless, you're good to go for coilovers in the future.
 
#7 ·
Unless I'm off the mark, Steeda makes both steel and aluminum c/c plates. I happen to have the steel ones, but my car is an '88. I'm sure the website could clarify what is offered and for what years.

BTW-there's a lot of fast cars that don't run coilovers, not to mention the rear shock mount location wasn't necessarily designed to take spring loads. There will be a difference of opinion on that one, but depending on how much chassis reinforcement you have in that area, it may not be an issue. Just something to think about.

Keep working on the driving as previously stated.

Bottom line - have fun!
 
#8 ·
Well i have the steel caster camber plates so i dont think i should have any issues there. Chris over the phone recommended that i go with the BIL-7 kit, not the BIL-6 that i wanted to order. He said they are ready for coil over's so i thought that meant they are thread? Maybe iam wrong.
I'll post up some pics and let everyone know once i get the parts from MM. Should be here on the 8th Wed.
Just go my complete Aeromotive fuel system today and last night I removed my stock fuel system. Tonight will be a long night in the garage getting the new fuel system in.
If anybody wants to see some pics of what i got going on just let me know i have hundred's of pics of my build. Iam going to post a thread from start to finish of my car but thats once its done.
Erik
 
#9 ·
The BIL-7 kit is the one with the SN95 rear shocks, but that dosen't mean they are grooved. You may want to check, easier to do it now instead of sending them back later.
 
#12 ·
Well here is what everthing is going in. 1991 GT this pic is bone stock motor w/ vortech S-trim, AOD trans, 5 lug converstion (not the cobra brks yet).
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Motor/tran's. TKO 600
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Motor/trans installed. 308cid, AFR185's, Jay Allen blower cam, holley systemax, BBk 1 3/4 long tubes, Vortech S-trim.
Image
 
#16 ·
Good eye..LOL well i guess you dont really need a good eye to see the misalinged frt panels. Yes the owner before me hit a curb stop with the rad support bending it to hell. I welded in a new support and iam going to get the new frt bumper, fenders and hood painted and install them so that everything is properly lined up this time.
It took some time to make sure the rad support i welded in was straight but i got it perfect.
Erik
 
#17 ·
r6rider, those dust boots you have under your springs, did those come with the coil-over kit? I see MikeC has them sitting next to the coil springs in his pic. My kit never came with them. :(
 
#19 ·
I think the little dust boots are new. The coilover kit I just got have them, but the kit I put on my Cobra a while back don't have them. I'm going to see if I can get a set for the Cobra.
 
#22 ·
Well i got the frt suspension in.
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And here is a close up of the 10th Anniversary cobra wheel with 235/45/17 goodyear vs. my 12in coilover spring. I will be going with 275/40/17's all the way around and iam not sure if the frt tires are going to hit my coilover's?
Image

Erik
 
#24 ·
Yeah i have the lower spring perch where it is now just to get things togeather. The car isn't ready to come off the jack stands yet, but when it does iam sure the lower spring perch will need to come up abit to get proper ride height. As for the tires i just order the 275/40/17 Kumho MX and iam really hoping they fit with that coilspring. The tire that you see in that pic is just a 235/45/17 Goodyear F1 and i know is much smaller in size then the Kumho's iam going to put on. Well will see what happeneds when i mount the bigger Kumho's.
Erik
 
#27 ·
Wow thats a big rim! But iam using a 17x9 w/5.98 b/s but still same tire 275/40/17. I order the tires from Tirerack this weekend and should see them in a few days. I got 12in long springs from MM in the frt so i figured if there is clearance issues i can return them for a set of 10in long springs just like you did.
thanks for the reply and pic!
Erik