Hi did install new lifter at the time, If so did you make sure they were plunge [pump] full with oil before measuring P/V clearance? Most lifter I buy new the hydralic lift is emty with no oil. I like to take them apart and fill them up with oil or soak them in a container for cople nights. Just a thought!!

 

Seems to me u had plenty of pv clearance so with the gasket on u would have .150/.170 clearance right? most of the time i see bent valves are from a missed shift or the wrong springs not enough seat pressure what springs are u running? i know when u do a burnout there is a load on the engine so that shouldn't have caused ur problem unless u spent it to the moon?

 

You may have spring coil bind or too low a assembly height making the coils bind or too high assembly height (seat pressure low causing valve float). If you have some rocker preload (more that a 1/4 turn pass zero lash) the lifter may have pumped up at high rev causing the valve to stay just off it's seat which in turn caused the valve to touch piston....Ken.

 

thanks for the responses guys, I very carfully selected the valvesprings, (set the proper install height, but never ACTUALLY measured the spring rate with a spring tester.) i'm just wondering if you have a hyd. roller, and the proper springs and plenty of p/v clearance, could you still hit the valves hard enough to bend 'em if you over-rev the engine hard enough?

 

you probably did not measure the actual clearance properly.


valves do not bend without hitting the piston.










valves do not bend without hitting the piston....













valves do not bend without hitting the piston...








valves do not get bent without hitting the piston.







there aint nuthin else inside the engine that will hit the valve to bend it.







valves do not bend from over revving unless there was not enough piston to valve clearance.



weak springs.




LEARN HOW TO DRIVE A CAR...


LEARN THAT YOU HAVE TO LIFT WHEN SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT....


IF YOU ARE UN ABLE TO HEAR / FEEL THIS< then you better not continue on being the driver.

 

dumbass KATO..... it was your advice that I set this thing up to begin with. i'll go with my cam grinder from now on. don't be such a smart-a$$ and I won't tell you to grow a dic... i know your experienced, but damn.. don't diss us dumbass's.... we're your bread and butter!!!!

 

Sorry Kato.... I was responding to your sarcasim, but I still shouldn't have said what I said. Thanks for your response, and everyone else too. Michael, you have brought up some interesting points as well. I'm going solid roller now, so I will be consulting a cam grinder for my valve control needs. thanks again all.

 

it was the stock dog-bones by the way... they broke and let the lifters spin, and the rest was history.... lot's of debris in the motor.... still ran good..............

 

that additude from you is not going to get you to understand that you still made a mistake.

if you did not use a lifter converted into a solid...or if pushrod length ws not optomised...

also not knowing when to lift your right foot...
....will eventually make ALL of the lifters pump full of oil and then even if there was .250" of clearance, the valves would hit.

YOU ARE NOT ANY bread and butter to me......

 

Can't to much PVC be as detrimental as not enough?

 

should have used the link bar lifters.

 

If too much pvc means the valves don't hit when they otherwise would (with the 'right' amount of pvc) I can't see how that's a detriment. I suppose that you're giving up a few cc's of combustion chamber volume with valve reliefs that are deeper than they need to be....a small price to have more clearance.

But as others have said - there was likely a problem with the measurements in the first place meaning he didn't have as much as he thought he did. He's also running boost - and the boost pressure fights the valve spring as well trying to 'push' the valve open. So more spring or more clearance is needed the higher the boost pressure goes....

 

PUCKER FACTOR.....???

 

You must be an older fella KATO, because for some reason old people that know there stuff like to be a jackass about it.

Yes, you might have pretty great knowledge on the subject. But even I rolled my eyes at your post. You can correct people without being a smartass know it all.

 

You can correct people without being a smartass know it all.

Where's the fun in that?

I like reading Kato's caffeine fueled responses.

 

YES I AM A DYCK...



..but being a DYCK ,

I have NOT had any of my engines bend valves.....

 

then how have you traveled that road, I bet you have bent valves before, or you would not know so much about it smart guy.

 

Just callin it how I see it.

 

If Kato does have a shop, I bet it makes no money ...Hes on the net all day...lol

...and plus, if hes old, I doubt a 60-70 year old man would be on the net fighting.

So which is it, are you a middle aged shop owner that makes no money or are you a old crabass ?

 

Kato is Inspector Clouseau's Japanese butler (if you're old enough to remember the Pink Panther movies?).

 

So I guess no chance of bad valve guides and those particular valves just dropped?

 

Well in previous post didn't he say the dog bones broke?

Isn't it usually a sign of the lifters coming out of there bores too far and snapping the bones? Which I think would indicate the valves floated. Which indeed link bar lifters would have saved the cam and lifters, not sure if it would have helped the valves in this case though.

 

when you exceed the original design limitations of what the STOCK junk lifters / dogbones will tollerate,

....parts start to hit other parts.

this is why an agressive cam setup should use a linked hydraulic roller lifter and not use the stock ( 1985 -up) type dog bone.....
the 1985 -up type lifter and tie link ( dogbone) was designed / made out of a powdered metal / formed unit DUE TO ECONOMY... certainally NOT a better design / newer design..... for 40 years previously, the standard of the world was / is the link bar lifter.....and still today, when you need the strength / stability, you should use the linkbar types of designs.
only other currect type is a "keyslot' type...such as a jesel and others.


but no matter what, when the driver keeps hs right foot down to the mat,...and the engine is making noise ( float) ...but the idiot still keeps his foot on the mat,....and additional lifters / valves start clanging.....what do you expect, other than this type of damage.


no.\\even when I ran original boss 302 engines way over 9000 rpms, the pistons did not hit the valves.

 

I do want to clear up one thing. I'm not a fool.... I wouldn't "keep my foot to the mat" If I could hear any clanging/banging going on. The only clue (at the track) was that the car felt as if it were missing slightly. I don't pull my intake between rounds, so I didn't see the damage. the event was rained out, so I never made enough passes to really tear up stuff. It's clear what happened now. When I pulled the intake I could see two of the broken dog-bones had two lifters jammed way up. (valves jammed "way down") I over-revved the engine on springs not up to the task, smacked the pistons, broke the dog-bones, they had the valves stuck open, but not enough (somehow) to audibly hear it. The springs were good for my old combo (6000 rpm and under, 10 lbs. boost, etc...) time to upgrade. thanks for the input everyone. you too Kato... LOL...

 

where are the cam grinder guys? I need cam, lifters, springs, invoice, etc.... ready to go fast...............

 

get rid of the stock lifters.


learn how to drive and "feel" the engine....

how about a rev-limiter.....?

 

As he said earlier, he forgot to set the rev limiter.

Costly mistake

 

get rid of the hydraulic junk..


GO solid lifter / cam.....






I AINT 60 or 70 years old...




but YOU speak as though you are only 12 years old....!!!!

 

I AINT 60 or 70 years old...

but YOU speak as though you are only 12 years old....!!!!

About time you replied to my post

So if your not 60-70 years old, then you have a shop that makes no money. Thanks for clearing that up. Never seen anyone thats suppose to be as knowledable as you are, but yet just another typical Cali a**hole.

I love your random capital words and huge spaces between lines...Kinda like a comic book where the bold works are suppose to mean something :rofl:

Not sure how a guy with all this exp in building engines for superstar racers would not have his shop slammed with orders, but yet your on here fighting with common Mustangers.

How do YOU feel ABOUT being the BIG fish in the POND ?

 

:shakehead... Wow.... now having someone with real experience share it with us "common Mustangers" is also a negative trait..... and now providing correct information is called....... "fighting"?.......

 

Joel you know as well I do the way this tool comes across is piss poor.

Hes always insulting and downing the poster to belittle them and their "stupid questions and actions" <<<<<< In his words.

He posts 3 and 4 times in row to pretty much call the OP a moron and then input little bits of his so called "tech" in is posts.

You know how when you take your car to a shop and the owner is total a**hole and thinks the world owes him something...then you never take you car back and tell all your buddys to stay away ?..lol

***On edit, look at post number 6 and tell if that looks like "good" infomation from someone with any exp at all ? I wouldnt listen to this dude and his info if you paid me...and god forbid anyone asks something about a BBF ! This dude pretty much trolls that forum with his "knowledge" :rofl:

 

damn! didn't mean to open a can of worms..... you know, I was just curious as to why my ##### was givin' me crap at the track. after the post, I went back down to the dungeon (garage) and realized how/what happened (by myself). the car will run again, and run well, through the various responses, and my own findings, I was able to build a reasonable scenario as to what caused the failure. thankfully I have the financial resources to correct the problem and return to the track better armed. I actually enjoy running into issues and resolving them through the advise offered by other "hobbyists" on this board. I often find Kato's responses amusing, because often with his sarcasm he would "accidently" bring up a viable point. the only thing here that irritated me was that he implied that I "needed to learn how to drive" I am a novice driver, and a novice builder, but for an engine that my wife and myself built in the garage as a "cruize-in" creampuff, a 6.50 @ 109 in the eighth is no slouch for a first attempt.... especially considering 4 cylinders were "along for the ride" I'll still value Kato's advise when it exists, (and get a chuckle from his senseless outbursts) cause it's what makes the whole money-pit-mustang-internet-drag racing-bench racing, ####T talking world go round...... now..... whose a good cam supplier?????????? Yes i'm drunk