Given what you've described as your desired rpm/peak power range, and the your desires for a broad, flat torque curve for street driving, I wouldn't go with the E. You'll find that you'll lose significant torque below 2500 rpm with the set up you're describing. The stock cam is actually quite effective with the other pieces you're talking about. With a set of 1.7's to allow a bit more lift, I'd just stick with the stock cam. If you want a bit more mid-range and top end action than stock, while maintaining reasonable bottom end with the heads/bits your talking about, you might try the CompCams XE264. However - there are lots of people out there with aftermarket intakes, GT40P heads, and the stock cam that are putting down 240-260 rwhp with broad flat torque curves - great street engines (pm tmoss for more details). With only 300 cubes, to get 300 at the wheels naturally aspirated, you have to push the rpm peak up well into the 5000's - and when you do that, the bottom end starts to suffer. So -- you need to decide what you want. With only 300 naturally aspirated cubes, you can't have 300 at the wheels AND a broad torque curve - lots of torque down very low for good street manners.

 

This is just me - for an engine driven on the street most of the time, I want the highest broadest torque curve I can get and let the HP fall where it may. I suggest you take off your cam valve events and find all the cam data from your stock cam - it may be quite good and make a torque curve like mine with a GT40P combo. My dyno is in my "View my photo gallery".

 

Well I don't mind pushing the peak rpm up a bit past 5000 but I do want it to pull up from low rpms for passing and what not. It doesnt have to be the same torque feeling at low rpms as stock. I do have 4.10s so I can lose a little low end and still be alright. The only time the motor is really under 1500 rpms is at idle due to the low gear. I try to granny drive it alot of the time shifting at about 2k which takes about half a second to reach. I dont necessarily want to make it sissy mary overkill broad torque range. I want it to run hard but with the stock bottom end I'm trying not to rev it much higher than 5500 so its the RPM and Track heat intakes and higher end cams I'm trying to avoid to keep the power all around.

Would the E cam lose a small bit on the low end and gain a decent bit of mid and upper power?

I looked up the XE264 you mentioned but its very confusing because I found two different ones on their site and they had significantly different lift. If you guys really just think the E cam is not good for much I would maybe look into some more thought out stuff like the anderson cams or maybe even call up one of the guys everyone is always talking about in here....Whats the guy's name? I heard he sells AFRs too.

Heres a good question...I normally don't like the package deals because you can't mix and match stuff but in summit they have the Trick Flow EFI engine kit which inculdes, twisted wedge heads,cam,street intake, roller rockers,gaskets, timing chain, pushrods, and valve covers for just over 2k$ And they claim 350 horses and 370 torque on 9.5:1 compression.
If I took 1400 for AFRs shipped, 350$ for used performer intake setup, any cam, roller rockers thats about right up there and not really be a matched combo. Bout the only thing missing is lifters. I'm not gonna run out and buy it or anything, but just thought its not that bad of a deal.

 

its not that bad of a deal, but go AFRs.. and his name is Ed curtis... his cams are grand... the E cam sucks more ass than a liposuction wand... i am running one right now... and am contemplating if ill even sell the mother ****er when i pull it out... its basicallly brand new... the power curve is actually good, and to be expected... i think the reason i hate it so much.. is because its the biggest cork left in my car... and it barely has any pop to it at all with that 331 and those good flowin heads... so anyway... dont be scared to go to 5500, i think youll be fine, but an off the shelf comp cam, or possibly the trick flow stage I would be a nice choice... the E cam is a good cam for what it does... it just doesnt fit into my combo worth a goat ****

 

oh and i forgot to mention, i think it will be a bit lazy on your car... it doesnt start doin a damn thing till 3K

 

oh and i forgot to mention, i think it will be a bit lazy on your car... it doesnt start doin a damn thing till 3K

I drove 2 e-cam cars that had heads and intake and they both were like that, even the one that had a blower.

 

Mine is awesome low end. But it won't to jack under 1700. I guess I'm just used to my 5.0 explorer. I get in the stang and it feels 10 times faster at any RPM. The "Weeeeee!!" factor comes in on my car at about 3500.

 

I have the E cams in my 86 LX and my 92 Ranger. I personally like them but I have not had any other cams in my vehicles to compare them to other than stock.

I have my last dyno sheet posted on my cardomain page. http://members.cardomain.com/pinellas50 That's in my truck. It has E7's that I ported myself. The 86 is pretty close to stock to.

For whatever it's worth.

 

Question about E303

I have a bone stock "89" 5.0. I was going to put an E303 in but now i am very confussed. The guy that I almost bought one from said it would give about 30hp and lower 0 to 60 by 1.3 sec. This sounds almost to good to be true especially after what I just read. Is it? Ok it ruins some low end, and top end is the same, but with the added mid range does it really add 30 hp and lower 0 to 60 1.3 sec?

If so i want this cam if not what a cam to get for a stock engine that will at bare min keep low end and mid range the same and give better top end? Is there such a cam?

I have 3.27 rear with 6spd and alum fly wheel.

Thanks

 

Pretty much any cam makes more power by shifting the rpm up. Your going to have to give up some bottom end if you want to make 300rwhp from a NA 302. I had my heads, intake and everything else on when I added my ecam. It made quite a bit of difference all over the band. Below 2k the power was a little soft but after that the power picked up quite a bit. I'd say the power peak is around 5600 and it revs to 6k with no problems. Keep in mind I have 1.72 rr and that might affect the power some. You could definetly make 300 horse on this cam but you might find it easier with some thing else. If you want a good agressive street powerband, you'll like it. If you want big dyno numbers (peak), try something else.

 

FoxRodder...

I would suggest a new cam, whether E303 or otherwise. Some of us on this board acquired used cams and ended up experiencing a loss in oil pressure, which progressively gets worse.

If simply adding a turbo or supercharger to your stock setup is not an option, then a number of H/C/I packages will work well for you (Holley Systemax, Trick Flow, Edlebrock) that are tested and proven.

I have an E303 w/ ported Twisted Wedge heads and Holley intake, which pulled like a freight train from 2500 rpms to 6000 rpms..., then the cam bearing spun (used cam). The E303 is a good cam for your purpose...

Either w/ a power adder or H/C/I, be sure the rest of the car is prepped to handle the power (strong bottom end, radiator and/or electric fan, trans, rear end, fuel pump/regulator, etc...).

Look up the article on the 5.0 Low Budget Mustang.

 

V8LTD - I doubt the fellow is intentionally trying to mis-lead you; he just doesn't understand how these things work. The E303 is designed by Crane Cams for Ford Racing; it's identical to Crane's old PowerMax 2040 camshaft. Straight from Crane's website, here's what they recommend for use with the cam:

GOOD MID-RANGE AND STRONG TOP-END POWER, REQUIRES MODIFIED MASS AIRFLOW, AFTERMARKET INTAKE, PERF. CYLINDER HEADS AND HEADERS, MUST USE 5-SPD AND 3.55 OR NUMERICALLY HIGHER REAR GEARS. REQUIRES CRANE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. (50 STATE LEGAL 85-93, C.A.R.B. E.O. D-225-46) BASIC RPM 2400-6000

As you can see, it was never intended to be used as a replacement for the stock cam. Putting it in an otherwise stock engine will kill the bottom end, and if the stock valve springs are tired, often results in valve float (due to the extra lift) before the engine can rev high enough to take advantage of the cam. If you're gonna change the camshaft to something like the E, other changes need to be made to take advantage of it - especially lowering the gear ratio to help make up for the loss of bottom end torque. If you're looking for a stock replacement cam try CompCams XE258 - just be sure with any cam change you get the valve springs designed to go with the cam.

 

Even with the stock cam and motor with LTs and 2.5 exhaust w/ the 4.10s it feels kinda weak anywhere below 3000 rpms...although I'm talking about in part throttle driving and not WOT.

Anyhow, sounds like maybe I should do something a little more thought out like the suggested TF stage 1 or another combo matched cam. If I get the AFRs I'd probably opt for the upgraded valve springs. I do want nice streetability, but at the same time I'm after what everyone is after...that sheet of paper that says 300 horses at the wheels. If I have to sacrifice a little low end to go from 280 horses to 300 horses I'd be willing to make that. I'm not looking to try different combos till I'm happy. Its gotta be done right the first time. I'm no mechanic and I don't like pushing my luck. I'd probably be really interested if there was a package that had AFRs mixed with a good cam and intake but I'm not interested in the edelbrock heads because its only a few hundred more for AFRs which I think everyone agrees are superior. BTW, does anyone see any reason why I can't run 185s or am I stuck with 165s w/ a lower rpm lower breathing setup? I want room for improvement later on if I'm looking to upgrade motor to a windsor or a stroker or something.

 

FoxRodder,

I was in the same boat as you not too long ago, which all i wanted was 300 rwhp and still good driveability.

There are many guys/gals rulling less hp to the wheels and are still getting into the 12's, and still have good drivability/reliability.

I think the Trick Flow H/C/I package would be a good fit for what you are looking for and the cost is not bad.

Again, don't forget about the cost to put the rest of the car together and ensure the short block/drive train can handle the power.

 

Biggest problem with the e-cam is it's at least a 15 year old design. Much has been learned over those 15 or so years about what works/ doesn't work on hyd. roller cams.

The e-cam has slow, lazy ramps that hurt low-end power and then it really doesn't make much top-end to compensate.

There are so many better, modern grinds from Comp, crane, lunati, etc. that will make better power everywhere.

 

Even with the stock cam and motor with LTs and 2.5 exhaust w/ the 4.10s it feels kinda weak anywhere below 3000 rpms...although I'm talking about in part throttle driving and not WOT.

Anyhow, sounds like maybe I should do something a little more thought out like the suggested TF stage 1 or another combo matched cam. If I get the AFRs I'd probably opt for the upgraded valve springs. I do want nice streetability, but at the same time I'm after what everyone is after...that sheet of paper that says 300 horses at the wheels. If I have to sacrifice a little low end to go from 280 horses to 300 horses I'd be willing to make that. I'm not looking to try different combos till I'm happy. Its gotta be done right the first time. I'm no mechanic and I don't like pushing my luck. I'd probably be really interested if there was a package that had AFRs mixed with a good cam and intake but I'm not interested in the edelbrock heads because its only a few hundred more for AFRs which I think everyone agrees are superior. BTW, does anyone see any reason why I can't run 185s or am I stuck with 165s w/ a lower rpm lower breathing setup? I want room for improvement later on if I'm looking to upgrade motor to a windsor or a stroker or something.

Don't get to caught up in dyno numbers. If your car feels fast, gets the track numbers you want and beats out your street competition then who cares what rwhp it makes. The dyno should be used as a tuning tool, thats it. Also if your not happy with your dyno #'s just bring it somewhere else, because chances are if you bring it to 3 different places you'll get 3 different #'s.

 

FOXRODDER said - "I'm not looking to try different combos till I'm happy. Its gotta be done right the first time." If this is what you want, you ought to go the route of a custom cam. The biggest benefits are that with a good modeling of your set up by the designer, you can have much more certainty about how it's actually gonna perform once you put it together - removes the guess work. Buddy Rawls did my custom - and his models (two different ones he uses to select the valve events) predicted the dyno'd output of my motor almost perfectly -- not only the peak HP and torque numbers, but how much torque I'd have down low, how much I'd gain/lose at different rpm over the cam I took out (which just happened to be an E303), and the rpm at which the peak HP and peak torque would occur. It runs/idles/has drivability EXACTLY like I asked for and hoped it would. And GREAT gas mileage for the performance level...

 

FoxRodder,

It depends on what you want and what you are willing to pay. Because you can keep the rest of the drivetrain stock, but the likelyhood that it will hold up is pretty doubtful. Think of it as a whole project as compared to creating good dyno numbers out of a motor.

Plan this car project front to back / back to front. Then based on your budget put it together all at once or over time. If they are not done, you may want to start w/ the rearend and trans. Some owners even start w/ the suspension.

There are H/C/I packages that are tested, or you can speaker w/ an engine designer as Michael points out. Either way, you will know what you get instead of piecing together an engine.

 

I think you guys are right that I should talk to someone who can set me up exactly what I want or what I need. As far as the rest of the car of course its gonna be a work in progress as I dont have enough money to do everything at once. Its already got full exhaust and the 4.10s in the rear with aluminum driveshaft, subframes, 190 pump, shifter and the motor is dead stock. Also have the Pro3i lowers and FRPP uppers sitting in a box here waiting to go on the car. I know the T5 will not handle the abuse for long once I get the power I want. I can't see myself plunking down 1000-1500$ for a geforce or tremec when the motor is still stock. In my opinion...motor first, drive it for awhile and save up for tranny and then when it blows up I'll be ready

Like I said before all my plans right now are based on dead stock bottom end. I can't afford a rebuild nor do I want to go pulling the motor. For now I want a bolt on 5.0 and when I get serious then either a 351 or stroker setup, possibly with an aftermarket shortblock like DSS or somethin. I don't think 300 horsepower is that much to ask of the factory short block do you? I mean I know its not gonna like revving up high but my intentions are street friendly and not really looking to shift higher than 5500-5600. You don't suppose I should just keep the stock cam to avoid any problems?

Fastgreen94-you are kinda right about that. I would be happy to get some solid 12s even if the dyno numbers seem to be lying. Only thing that bugs me is that theres alot of similar setup motors that are using GT40 heads instead of aluminum aftermarket and then are getting 270, 280, 290 and even over 300 with good porting. For the big expense of AFRs I really want it to smoke ya know?