I run have run a spec all my life. I tried a centerforce dual friction after reading some good reviews I need here but it couldn't hold the powershifts. I am running a spec stage 3.


I would HIGHLY recommend a mm clutch cable. It made a wold of a difference over any other cable I tried. Trust me.

 

Man I dont like reading this. Just put a centerforce dual friction in tonight. Pro Motion hi rev (yellow pressure plate) clutch couldnt take 7k rpm shifts.

How many rpms are you turning and what kind of et's?

 

Centerforce Dyad and call it done!! Last clutch you will ever buy.

 

Ran a Spec 3+ with my TKO 600. Not sure how much torque you have but, if your under 500wtq I recommend a spec stage 2. No slip, no chatter and near stock pedal pressure.

 

I'm sure a 3+ would have been a better clutch for me as far as street manners. But after the last fiasco with the df I found myself getting a little more than what I need just to be safe. Almost every clutch with a marcel, like the spec 3+, is going to virtually eliminate any chatter.

 

I read so many good reveiws about the df on here. I think it is a good clutch for sure and can probably hold everything but powershifts very well. I have seen some people here in the very low 600s with the df if I recall correctly.

 

I run a promotion spec clutch in my current setup with no current issues

 

Cable clutch/faceplated G-force. clutch stop and quick release is on the list. If that doesnt fix it idk whats next besides going to a diff setup. I also have a stage 1 spec which will supposedly hold the power (ls motor/ford trans)

 

Ive run the dual friction and had no issues with it, the clutch i had the best luck with was the ram powergrip, it held on for much longer than i thought it would. Didnt like the last 6500+ launch i did though.

 

Just be wary of a real aggressive clutch. My friend Steve BROKE his faceplated TKO600 in a low 10 second car, with a Spec stage 3

 

Thanks for the replys.

I had a spec stage 6 come apart on my last car and ruined my brand new transmission so i will never buy another. I tore the bands in half. I will look into the center force but from what i remember years ago the weights always flew off.

my current car has a competiton clutch in it that has super stiff pedal feel and grabs hard. great for a dyno queen but i want something usable.

 

You'll find conflicting opinions here on which is "the best".

1. High pressure and a low friction disk
2. Low pressure and a high friction disk.

I always leaned toward more plate pressure and a lower friction disk...but that's just me, and I'm not a clutch master.

 

I am a SPEC guy as well. Ran in the 10's in a 3317lb car with a Pro Motion TKO all day long with no problems. I love the SPEC clutches.

 

I'm running a spec stg 2+ and its held 750 lbs of tq and over 650 hp.I'm also running a faceplated tko 600.

 

Best diapragm?

 

What is this thing ed?

 

IMO I would NOT go with center force DF. Sorry to be so blunt with a decent brand but I burned through 2 of them on my 2001 S-10 with a 100 shot on it.
4.3L, 190 hp at about 5500. That's only 290 flywheel hp. I power shifted trans all the time. Could not handle weekend night time events. I even called a rep for CF as well as a guy at my local speed shop and we were booth recommended the DF with puck style on the one side. I can't remember which pressure I had ( high/ low ).
This is not my attempt to bash Center Force. That is not my intention. I'm sure many people have had great luck with them just not me. I only want to share my view cause I'm pretty sure everyone here has way more hp than my slug 10. I hope this helps. I plan to run a spec when I get to that point in my 91 lx.
Don't worry. I'm a ford guy. Cheb got stolen. Lol good luck on build
I wanted to clarify by DF I mean dual friction not the new one. This was years ago.

 

I am using a Centerforce DF in front of Liberty faceplated TKO500. Id guess about 410-420hp to the tire. Works great. The clutch was used when I put it in and hasn't missed a beat. Launch 5000rpm and shift at 5800.

 

I think picking a clutch would depend on the power level you are at or expecting to throw at it. that's the starting point.

 

What is the application? HP, gearing, weight?

 

Faceplated tko600, 3160 lb coupe, 4.56 gear and shifting at exactly 7k. Just made 449 rwhp on a mustang dyno. Previously made about 25 less rwhp and went a best of 10.41 @129. Made several passes with the yellow hi rev pp/clutch from promotion. only 2 passes were clean. Clutch pedal vacuum'd down shifting 2nd to 3rd gear. Had a clutch stop made and it didnt help.

Im running friday night, lets see what the cf dual friction does.

 

That's what I run and it is flawless. Shifts easy at 7000. No issues. Works like a normal clutch.

 

Myself personally I honk the spec 2+ and 3+ models are the beat clutch for street/strip cars...once you decide to make it mostly a track car it's time to upgrade to a puck style clutch or a nice twin disc like the McLeod or the one Ed posted, of course you got to pay to play with those bad boys.


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Just ordered a spec stage 1 setup for my car. Hoping its flawless, plan to shift around 6000-6200 and be in gear by 65-6700. Never experienced pedal stick and don't want to either.
Tko 600 faceplated, 2850 lbs, 4.10, 26" slicks, roughly 400rwhp. I have a promotion full f/t disc and am wanting to try one of there hi rev pp's with it. We'll see how it goes with the spec first. Anyone know how much hp/tq they're rated for?

 

Just ordered a spec stage 1 setup for my car. Anyone know how much hp/tq they're rated for?

495, or 510 tq dependent upon pn is what Spec rates them at. Plan on ordering mine soon as well. We'll see....

 

There you go Ed!!!! Giving away secrets!!!! ACE is a bad mofo!!!!!

 

Bruce almighty! Where you been? WE NEED VIDS!!! last we saw was NA passes...WE NEED NITROUS VIDS! WTF LOL
Anyways someone's gotta give away some secrets...I'm glad you and marky mark willystang 337 stroker are buddies....him and I are buddies too....but I can keep secrets. So we're good.

 

as i posted in my thread, the centerforce df didnt work last night ... pedal was dead on 3rd and 4th ... the clutch held great, no clutch smell, hits hard, pulled a 1.380 60' on a track that was prepped worth a damn ...

im going to try adjusting the clutch up so it releases high, then run a longer clutch stop bolt to keep the pedal from going too far down ...

"doc's notch" i will get you a pic of the clutch stop here soon ... its a basic set up, shannon welded a nut on the side of the clutch pedal, then you run a bolt through it, it works great ...

 

Here is a pic of a top side clutch stop that I have in my cars. Bottom is nothing more then a 5/8 bolt that has a nut on the inside of the car and the outside. Very simple and easy to do.

 

This^^. I copied it when I went TKO. Works great. Same with his clutch cable adjuster plate. Thanks Bruce you're the man!!

 

pull your clutch pedal off, burn a nut to it and you will have an adjustable stop for any length bolt you choose ... i bought 2 different length bolts just to see what worked the best, then get a nut to lock it down ... shannon burned this on and painted it in about 3 minutes ...

just watch the angle at where you burn it on, you want that bolt head hitting flush on the carpet ...

 

Thanks for the pictures guys, i was thinking about doing something similar to the 5/8" bolt right on the floor.