How do you know that it’s “rich”?

did you get codes for both banks or are you guessing?

 

Owning few cars with full exhaust for decades, my nose is pretty accurate When smelling rich mixture. Also, tail pipe is sooted black wiping after each drive. I do not have ODB1 code reader but will try to use paper clips to see if there’s any codes. On the dash, there is no check engine light currently. Looking at both exhaust tip sooted black after each drive, I believe both banks 1 and 2.

 

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Dont guess when you can pull codes for free. You don't need a code reader. If it's got a cobra computer in it 24s are normal. What catch code is on the ECU? The test port in 94-98 on on the passenger side behind the strut tower.

 

I have no codes. Just does the routine flashes.

 

You can’t tell rich or lean by smell, despite what you and many others believe

IF it’s truly rich, adaptive strategy would have reached its limit and triggered codes for each bank, as well as illuminating the CEL.

The EEC is constantly changing the air fuel mixture, from lean to rich, depending on load, rpm, temperature, and throttle state.
All cars will have carbon buildup in the tailpipe because of this.

“soot” is diesel only…

 

You can’t tell rich or lean by smell, despite what you and many others believe

IF it’s truly rich, adaptive strategy would have reached its limit and triggered codes for each bank, as well as illuminating the CEL.

The EEC is constantly changing the air fuel mixture, from lean to rich, depending on load, rpm, temperature, and throttle state.
All cars will have carbon buildup in the tailpipe because of this.

“soot” is diesel only…

No codes no check engine light. I have two carbureted cars and one 2003 mach1 with no cats and none of them smells this rich to a point where it gives me a light headache.

 

According to autozone, that meter is correct for a 1994. I'd check the codes and go from there. It will need a different meter or injectors unless its tuned or is running a J4J1 computer. Also figure out what's going on with the breather on the valve cover and pcv.

 

I checked the codes with paper clip and I have no codes….

 

That mass air meter electronics is just an aftermarket replacement for the stock mass air meter electronics and that looks to be a stock 94-95 mass air meter calibrated for 19lb injectors. Should put 19lb injectors back in it doesn't look like 24lb injectors would be needed. Probably need a regular oil fill cap instead of a breather as well . And if there is an off road h-pipe you would be smelling exhaust fumes more with no catalytic converters.

 

Yes, it has straight exhaust no cats. Probaly pick up some 19 lb injectors Instead BBK MAF for 24lb injectors.

 

Put a MFn wideband on the car and tell us what it's actually doing.

Smells rich is NOT a thing.

What mods are done?? Unless you have a decent H/C/I setup, throw the 19s back in with a correct MAF.

 

mods are 75mm BBK throttle body, bbk CAI, 24lb injectors, Pypes exhaust system, no cats, that’s all.

 

Carbon monoxide is giving you the headache.

it’s not rich if you don’t have a code, because adaptive strategy adjusts the fuel mixture. It has about a 15% range. Once beyond that, it triggers a code.

 

I found this old thread… what do you think? They say i need MAF to be calibrated for 24lb injectors. Currenr one I have is for stock 19 pounder. Maybe I should install high flow cats but it’s strange that 94 is only one that gives me headaches. None of my 3 other cars with no cats gives me headaches. Even my track 81 Z28 with headers with drag dumps don’t give me headaches. I’m little baffled.

24lb injectors make my car run very rich.

I have a 91 lx notchback. Its a 306 with mildly ported e-7 with gt-40 size intake and exaust valves. It has an e-303 cam, the block has been 0-decked. It has a 73 mass air and 24-lb fuel injectors, off road h-pipe no cats and flowmasters. I have just installed a new t-5 out of a 93 cobra/ with...

www.corral.net

 

24lb injectors are too big for your stock engine. Yes. And having a stock mass air meter not calibrated for the 24lb injectors is probably making it run more rich than it should be running. It's not right as it is that's for sure. Put 19lb injectors in it and it will run better and get better gas mileage and won't put off so much stinky exhaust fumes.

 

thanks Fox. Just looked up 19 pound injectors and they are 389 dollars for set of 8. Since my car has 75mm BBK throttle body and BBK cold air intake, I might as well buy calibrated BBK MAF meter assembly for 24lb injectors for 249 dollars instead?

 

24lb injectors were too big for the guy in the link you posted too.

 

It will still be too big of injector and you will need a custom tune and a chip to modify the fuel tables. +$450 for that or more.

 

Post a want add on the corral in the parts for sale forum for a good used set of 19lb injectors. Got to be somebody that has a good used set for under $100

 

Plenty of refurbished 19 pound injectors on Ebay for $25 - $100 for the full set. If they are flow tested, new orings and filter screens installed, then they are good to go.

 

Or put a set of TFS 170 heads , eddy RPM 2 intake and a B cam on there.

Then the 24s will work.

 

just send your meter off, or buy one calibrated to 24lb injectors. There’s nothing wrong with running 24s on a stock engine, and pulling the maf off is way less work

 

It's a stock mass air meter the OP has no recalibrating it sending it off. 24lb injectors are too big even for my engine with Windsor J.R. heads N-412 cam ede 1st gen performer rpm EFI intake at Denver altitude I should have stayed with 19lb injectors. Have to turn the fuel pressure way down to compensate because I'm not getting it custom tuned, which would be another expense if the OP wants to keep those 24lb injectors and get a mass air meter calibrated for 24lb injectors along with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator fuel pressure gauge etc. Sounds like he is concerned about the exhaust fumes the most. What's the budget to make it right. How much work do you want to do. Any plans to make more power in the future with more aftermarket parts. Or leave it mostly stock.

 

Used mafs calibrated for 24lb injectors can be had for cheap, I’d recommend him to go that route.

24lb isn’t too big for anything if a proper maf is used. I’ve taken a 95 mustang with a t4m0 eec and put 24lb injectors on it with a stock maf and it ran perfectly fine. So surely if a calibrated one was used it would be alright.

 

Adaptive strategy is compensating for the larger injectors. Hence you don’t have any codes for a rich condition

plus your breather cap in place of the oil cap is a vacuum leak, letting in unmetered air…

if anything, it might be rich at WOT while in open loop…

if you aren’t having stumbling, misfires, or actual black smoke coming out of the tailpipes, I wouldn’t bother with it.

maybe get a set of used 19# injectors for now.

your money though 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

Every car is different. Ya never know. Maybe if the OP put cats on his car problem solved.

 

Or replace the after market duralast mass air sensor electronics with stock oem Ford electronics would be the easiest change. Can get those off any late 80's to mid 90's car truck or SUV at the parts yard cheap.

 

The electronic portion of the MAF is trimmed to the specific housing it’s bolted too.

that is why when you buy a new MAF, you get the whole thing (housing + electronics)

 

No they are all the same electronics from Ford with the oval plug. The housings are what's different and the sample tubes inside the housings.

 

If the housing tube diameter is the same then it would work

 

If I'm wrong then correct me because I've taken oem Ford mass air sensors electronics off early 90's explorers and used them on the foxbodys with no change in the tune. Air fuel the same. And thunderbird and f-150 and Mark VIII etc

 

It worked out okay for you because of adaptive strategy, but you should never swap electronics between housings.

did you datalog the MAF before & after the swap? The KAMRFs? The LAMBSE?
Or are you just guessing that there was no change?

The MAF is the most important sensor on the car. It needs to be accurate. “Calibrated” meters are not accurate. Swapping electronics degrades that accuracy.
The MAF determines the airmass, Load, and barometric pressure. The 94/95 EEC is a Load based strategy, if the MAF is off, (“calibrated”), then the Load is off and every calculation thereafter.

 

Wide band didn't change at wot or idle

 

Or part throttle cruising for that matter. Nothing changed.

 

Calibrated meters are not accurate? Wow that's a new one. I give up. Good luck to the Op.

 

if you don’t understand why a “calibrated” for different injectors meter isn’t accurate then you should not be on here giving advice about them. Not sorry.

like I said earlier, the MAF is used to calculate Load and Barometric pressure as well. If you scale down the reading to compensate for a larger injector, you also change the Load & baro calculation.

LOAD is used to determine timing advance & fuel delivery.

“calibrated” maf meters were a flawed bandaid work around from 33+ years ago before we had real tuning hardware & software readily available. Competent tuners don’t use them and it’s the reason why respected companies send a MAF transfer function with each meter they sell.

 

Not sure why i keep reading 24lb injectors are too big. 80s aren't too big for a stock engine so 24s most certainly aren't. As long as the pulsewidth can go low enough to limit fuel they are fine but obviously a tune is needed.

As far as calibrated MAFs go, they work, however they trick the computer into seeing less flow which in turn affects load calculations. This will cause the car to run lean at close to WOT where the computer should be calculating load that requires 12.5:1 but the computer is calculating less load so it's calling for 14.7:1. It also affects timing calculations which can call for too much timing again because load calculations are skewed.

Not trying to start arguments but i wouldn't use a calibrated MAF unless i absolutely had to and then i would dial the distributor back a few degrees to be safe at WOT. 20 years ago they were the only option, but now that we have computer tuning its the least desirable option.

Its pretty cheap to get a used quarterhorse, download your stock tune and change injector values. Data for 24s is readily available. That's what i would do and it's cheaper than a calibrated MAF. Changing injector values is extremely easy plus with a QH you can monitor all the parameters the computer is seeing including fuel trims in real time.