I am performing a similar build as yourself right now. I haven't completed the dynomat
installation yet but am considering moving the battery cables inside also.
I personally would not cover the cables since it would very difficult to do any
repairs or maintenance after covering them with dynomat.

I think carefully moving the cables inside should not be a issue.

Are you updating the fuse block or OEM wiring harness to ??




SICKFOX

 

I am performing a similar build as yourself right now. I haven't completed the dynomat
installation yet but am considering moving the battery cables inside also.
I personally would not cover the cables since it would very difficult to do any
repairs or maintenance after covering them with dynomat.

I think carefully moving the cables inside should not be a issue.

Are you updating the fuse block or OEM wiring harness to ??

SICKFOX

I am keeping the factory fuse boxes (underhood and underdash) but have gone in the underhood harness and pulled everything I am not using from the box/harnesses. I will be adding in a couple fuse relay holders for stuff like Fuel Pump, Vac Pump, Oil Cooler Fan, Water Pump for intercooler, and a dual relay fuse set up for each of the fan speeds.

I think for the battery cables I may just leave a channel in the Dynamat foam stuff for the cables to sit. Then drop a layer of thick mil plastic over them and tape it down. Let the plastic serve as a chafe barrier.

I am running all new speaker wire, amp controls and power etc this time around. Also doing a rear seat delete and mounting my kids seat in the center with some hardware.

Next up is a cage and Stiffler's FIT jacking rail system underneath. Then hopefully put it all back together.

 

I think the potential problem or concern is that the big wire overheats from a short in the engine compartment and smokes the insulation inside the car. I have mine run that way, but will be modifying it soon. Moving the starter solenoid to the back by the battery so that the large cable inside the car that powers the starter is only hot when cranking the car. Will run a smaller cable to a power block under the car in some sort of protective housing for constant power needs. By routing carefully inside the car with the Dynomat, you may not have any problems shorting the wire inside the car, but you just never know what happens under the hood to the connected components. A large diameter wire burning back into the car puts off a lot of smoke!

 

I am not an electrical engineer but I have stayed at a Holiday Inn a few times. My understanding that the bigger the wire the better heat displacement from shortages and prevents the wire from getting so hot that a fire would occur. I have seen smaller wire do that.....when replaced with larger wire, the fuse does the job. In my case, I am putting in a BUNCH of fuses and breakers (front & rear).