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Discussion starter · #41 ·
if you wait for black friday sales, you could save some dough. promaxx last year had $200/off a pair of 9175.

and you can have them sent back to be cnc'd if you ever wanted bigger. The run pac springs equal to afrs 8017 spring.

i had 3 sets of flootek. i got them when they weren't so popular. the ad was in back of the 5.0 mustang magazine.

my first pair is still running today 10 years later. with the almighty b cam.
I was thinking about holding off until black Friday to check out the deals.
 
Thanks for all of your suggestions, I looked into the AFR renegade series and that may be the way to go. Just a little over $1000 for both heads assembled sounds ok to me.
Anyone else have any experience with these?
You linked to the Enforcer heads but called them the Renegade series. Two different animals.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Even with the enforcer heads and a b cam alone won't get a 1,000 horsepower, that's over 3 horsepower per cubic inch. You must be running a blower or turbo charger
I think he was pulling your leg a wee bit. We all love the mighty B cam. Especially Ed.

I had a set of Flotek 180. They were ok, but i needed a peculiarly short pushrod for proper geometry. It may have been due to the rockers I was using. Regardless, I sold them for close to what I paid and am going for some AFR165. I figure they’ll last pretty much forever, so why not spend a bit more for a better product.
 
there used to be some guys who had good programs for the old pro comp cleveland heads. They made a lot of steam. Problem is, once all the problems were fixed, you were not a lot less $$$ than a set of name brand stuff. Thing is, I'm told that the ProComp clevelands would kill most of the inline valve stuff....assuming the clevelands were done up right. My brother had a set on a 400 in a 79 F150. Ran great. Impressive actually, his were not ported (out of the box). Impressive considering how the stock 400 ran which was anemic.
 
That's why I keep bouncing back and forth between the different cylinder heads, I kinda believe that your better off paying more up front. Sounds like you think that I'd be better off with the afr's, I think that you are right. I can't decide if I should buy a classic mustang or one from the 80's. What would be a good cam for the afr heads, car will be a semi daily driver. Idle quality it's real important but I do want power brakes and a/c. Pl
 
I respect everyone on this forum and I thank you for your help, as I haven't done a engine for performer in a long time. But, I've worked on cars for one thing or the other for 49 years and I don't mind saying that I'm still learning. I thought about a 80's mustang because of the factory fuel injection system and hydraulic roller cam, and they seem more plentiful. Are parts readily available for them? What about cost of the later mustang's? My goal is to have a fun car to drive. Thanks everyone.
 
That's why I keep bouncing back and forth between the different cylinder heads, I kinda believe that your better off paying more up front. Sounds like you think that I'd be better off with the afr's, I think that you are right. I can't decide if I should buy a classic mustang or one from the 80's. What would be a good cam for the afr heads, car will be a semi daily driver. Idle quality it's real important but I do want power brakes and a/c. Pl
I think your cart is way ahead of the horse, youre looking for heads for a car you dont even own yet. That doesnt make sense. What if you find a deal on a foxbody and it already has trickflow heads on it? Then you dont need heads at all. There is no point in buying heads before the car unless you find a ridiculous deal.
 
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