You'll need to be sure to install a bulb or the 510 ohm resistor in the Green/Red wire so that when it get's keyed power and the alt is turning it will charge.

 

Super helpful @qikgts. Found that wire in all of 30 seconds thanks to your diagram. Thanks for the tip on the resistor or bulb. I guess I would add that to the splice point of the green/red wire ane the hot-in-run wire from the new wiring harness.

 

Not that I care, but RJM copied a lot of my and jrichker wiring stuff from back in 2005 - 2006......getting the info out there is what matters......

 

I guess I would add that to the splice point of the green/red wire ane the hot-in-run wire from the new wiring harness.

Yes, as the bulb will light up when the key is on and the alt not charging. Ground would come from the alt side and power from the keyed power side. Happy to help, though I'll never be as helpful as the one who made the diagram to begin with... lol

Thanks Mr. Moss!

 

Are using OEM or aftermarket dash?

the resistor resides in the back of the OEM cluster.

If you are not using oem cluster strong advice is ditch the bulb idea and use the resistor. If the bulb burns out and you don’t have the resistor in place your alternator won’t charge.

 

@Stangdawg I am using an aftermarket dash. I am using this one: https://www.cjponyparts.com/dakota-...strument-cluster-assembly-vhx-with-black-alloy-style-face-1987-1989/p/VHX87K-V/

 

The kit should have come with a resistor. FYI the DakotaDigital resistor is 301 ohms not 510 as the load to the control box is different (it’s LED) than the incandescent bulbs of oem dash.

Do you have oem dash connectors still in the car or just bare wires from the Ron Francis kit?

The resistor goes between pins 5 & 6 of what would be the left (gray) connector.

 

@Stangdawg I will have to check the Dakota box again. It came with a ton of things -- some of which I am still connecting. I haven't encountered a resistor yet, though I may have overlooked it. Yeah, I still have all the OEM wires in the car. I will pull those after the Ron Francis kit is fully installed and I verify it actually runs haha.

 

@Stangdawg I just found the wire and the one tiny mention of it in the auxiliary instructions (not the main instructions) mentioning when and how to install the alternator load wire. Thanks for mentioning that or I would have completely missed it. So this means I can return the resistors I bought, correct?

 

if you don’t want to hack up your oem harness use this kit.

87-93 Ford Mustang Digital EZ Harness Installation Kit — Newrad Solutions

Use the Digital EZ harness to give you that professional touch for your aftermarket digital gauge installation! The connectors are a direct fit onto the factory 14-pin connectors in your dash. No need to hack up your OEM wiring and can be reversed in the future.

www.newradsolutions.com

 

@Stangdawg Wow, I didn't know that kit existed. I wish I had known about it before installing that cluster in my old convertible haha. Well, it will now go to good use in my hatchback. I will definitely order that. Thanks for all the tips!

 

Question: if one were not using the stock dash, but a Holley 7" or something, couldn't you just wire 12V from a Run source to the alternator's exciter wire? This is what I have done because while I have the stock dash, I must have clipped a wire or something when re-wiring everything last year as I can't get the cluster charge lamp to light up at Key Run. I've even replaced the flat circuit board as my original one from '92 was pretty mangled. That didn't do the trick noting I do need to try replacing the LED lamp in that socket with an original type bulb as I've seen one or two references to the circuit not liking LEDs but, given the resistor, that seems unlikely to me. I have a voltmeter gauge in the cabin, suspect I need it to light up at start to pass MA inspection. Thoughts?