BTW, I go to the track on occasion, I am not a serious drag racer by any means. But I do enjoy test and tune nights. I do drive the car pretty hard. Also, would either flywheel be more or less likely to chatter with the spec disc?

 

I bought the Spec stage III with the alluminum flywheel. I went with the alluminum flywheel because I want by car to rev up faster and not shock my tires too much on launches. I have not tested this combo yet because my engine is still being built.

A billet steel flywheel is heavier than the billet alluminum flywheel. The only advantage of a heavier flywheel is that the engine will maintain its inertia easier when you let off the accelerator. Meaning the car will not slow down as quickly when you let off the gas.

Jerome

 

Thanks for your post...but the reason that I do not want an aluminum flywheel is that I DO want to shock the tires on a launch, I want that brute force feel when I dump the clutch. These cars are weak on torque to begin with and I do not forsee a power adder in my future in the next year or two at least. I am aware that an aluminum FW will rev quicker and easier due to the lighter weight and less inertia, but out of the hole on a hard launch, given the lack of torque, I would tend to believe that the harder the hit on the tires, the less likely you are going to bog the motor since the inertia keeps the flywheel going on a 4k launch. In this same situation an AL FW might lose rpm easier because of the lack of inertia. Now on a high horsepower/torque motor, this would not be an issue, but on an otherwise stock mustang I would think that I may have this problem. I am by no means knowledgeable on this, but I'm just going with what I see as common sense. Am I right? Any thoughts?

So back to the original question...is the billet steel flywheel worth the extra money over the stock flywheel??? And again, what about chatter?

Thanks for the help!
Mike

 

I'm replacing my Spec stage 2 clutch and Spec Billet steel fw with exact match. Long story short, my ex had my 5sp 07 GT for 2 WEEKS and I was sick over it as I knew he can't drive his a**. He returned it with severe clutch chatter and I drove it until it moved no more. I freaking LOVE the setup! Perfect reaction, launches my car forward and might I add the 20" Nitto G2 Warm weather tires do not disappoint. Enjoy!

 

The difference in a billet vs. stock cast flywheel is the way it's produced. A billet flywheel is machined from a solid chunk of steel where the cast unit is just that, cast in a mold.

The Billit unit will/should be slightly lighter but it's main benefit is additional strength over cast. If you want to help reduce your chances of having a flywheel coming apart the billet is a better option.

It's not a replacment for a scattershield by anymeans but it will hold up to more abuse and less likely to come apart if overtightened when installed.

 

DU302...What kind of tires do you plan on running? I am not so sure you want to shock anything less than a ET street or 15 inch BFG drag radial. Worse case you can just launch at a higher rpm.

Jerome

 

Thanks for your post...but the reason that I do not want an aluminum flywheel is that I DO want to shock the tires on a launch, I want that brute force feel when I dump the clutch. These cars are weak on torque to begin with and I do not forsee a power adder in my future in the next year or two at least. I am aware that an aluminum FW will rev quicker and easier due to the lighter weight and less inertia, but out of the hole on a hard launch, given the lack of torque, I would tend to believe that the harder the hit on the tires, the less likely you are going to bog the motor since the inertia keeps the flywheel going on a 4k launch. In this same situation an AL FW might lose rpm easier because of the lack of inertia. Now on a high horsepower/torque motor, this would not be an issue, but on an otherwise stock mustang I would think that I may have this problem. I am by no means knowledgeable on this, but I'm just going with what I see as common sense. Am I right? Any thoughts?

So back to the original question...is the billet steel flywheel worth the extra money over the stock flywheel??? And again, what about chatter?

Thanks for the help!
Mike

As far as the "chatter", that is a function of how grabby the clutch is. I found that for everyday driving, a light touch on the gas pedal when engaging the clutch will keep the chatter down.

As far ar billet steel vs nodular, if you race your car, then go with the billet steel.

 

Well first off what tires you plan running on at the track? I see that you mention 4k launches so i take it you run Drag radials or street tires, with et streets or drags I launch at 5700+ depends on track.

Now to your other question, I run the spec stage IV in my car with the stock flywheel I have a few noises but hey that comes with a aftermarket clutch oh well. I looked into the billet piece and aluminum piece and thier weights and all that and checked the affects on the rotating mass and decided that the stock cast piece would be fine for my setup as it is about the same weight as the billit piece and plenty strong.


Brandon

 

I will be running nitto's...275/40/17's. The reason that I pose this question is that everyone on here always recomends either a billet steel flywheel or an aluminum one, but I don't think that i've ever seen anyone say to just buy a stock one again. At $80 (stock) versus $225+ for a billet steel or aluminum one, I sure as hell better NEED that extra strength from the billet. As I mentioned above, I do not see an aluminum one being what I am looking for and I don't believe that I need the increased strength of the billet. Looks like I'm buying a stock flywheel.

Thanks a lot for the help!
Mike

 

Great tire choice!