A-pillar/ C-pillar repair

79stang · May 20, 2013

Hey guys my pillars were cracked near both my front windshield and back window. I looked forever trying to find pictures online to see how big of a deal I was going to be up against when fixing it. I decided to go ahead and dive into it face first so to speak. Here are some pictures of what the pillars look like with all the lead scrapped out. The drivers side windshield pillar crack was the worst. As you can see it had quite a bit of rust I had to cut out. I'm making patch panels to weld in to replace the lead, but the lead feathered out several inches from the roof/quarter panel seam. So welding the panels in alone won't make the panels straight. What do you all use to smooth this area out? Figured bondo would end up cracking again. Maybe all metal? I know some of you have tackled this same problem and would like to hear what you did.

Thanks

Opher · May 21, 2013

When I do a complete paint job that involves stripping that someone wants it to be perfect, I take all the lead out and then make the patch panels accordingly.

As for the lead being tapered , yes the factory used it just like bondo.

Make the patches as close as you can and finish off with a skim coat of filler, you shouldn't have any issues if you do it correctly.

79stang · May 22, 2013

Hey thanks for the reply. I'm planning on fully welding the original seam. It was just spot welded together from the factory in two spots. Then I'm going to weld the patches over that seam. I was just thinking bondo would be weak in that area. Might end up going with fiberglass.

autobodyman · May 23, 2013

Short strand fiber glass filler works well on the first skin for the welding seams IMO.then follow with 2k Glazing.

SublimeRT · Jun 5, 2013

Not a Mustang, but I'm doing a resto on a 68 Charger right now. It has lead in the same places. Top of the A pillar where it meets the roof skin and where the roof meets the quarter panel on the sail panel, or C pillar in the Mustangs case. I will be refilling those spots with lead/body solder just as the factory did. I will probably end up using some lead free stuff from Eastwood, I have heard good things about it. Even though the Charger is a vinyl top car, I do not want to take chances with Bondo or something similar cracking or swelling up.

I suppose if you modify the joints to where they're more level with the surrounding metal a skim coat of filler would suffice but that's a still a tough call in my book.

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A-pillar/ C-pillar repair

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