Ford Mustang Forums banner

96-98 4V Teksid block 400-500rwhp build list

1 reading
24K views 15 replies 4 participants last post by  mjackson3010  
#1 ·
I want to begin gathering parts to build my engine to be capable of 400-500 rwhp. Can someone who has built one of these engines and already went through the hell of finding parts please pass on the information. I've called ford looking for heads. Their reply is somewhat strange, we show we list 04 cobra heads but "out of stock". Ford REP. said to check back in a month. List price is $2,000+ per side he said when they do have them. What all 04-05 models had the "DB" "DC" cast heads so I can check junkyards? Ill get some used ones and save some money. I want it strong and I don't want to skimp anywhere that I shouldn't. Ive found manley connecting rods its not hard to find those and manley pistons. Im having trouble finding heads that are the 9 thread and revised cooling passages. Can I get 400+ out of just porting my own heads and supercharged or turbo the stockers with upgraded springs, etc. inside?

I would like someone to possibly list out all the required parts and prices and where they got them so I can begin ordering this stuff. My brother in law and I plan on putting this on a stand this summer and building it. I would prefer not to use force induction but If I have to I will and feel free to list that as well if its going to be a cheaper route. I have no problem with doing head work, boring up to .020 on the block. The installation process and installing heads/gaskets I can do myself. Im just going to pay for the shortblock/machining/ and rotating assembly but I dont even know where to look for a good builder for that.

I live in a small town in ohio 45714 zip code, but nobody near here does that I looked. There is one builder in this area who could probably do it, but hes so overbooked, and kind of a weiner I dont want to go with him. What I have to start with is a 96 "still running" cobra engine. My brother in law will do as much work as we can, and I will also have to outsource some. Im still learning but will do as much as possible to save on labor cost. Feel free to give me a run down on parts would be greatly appreciated If I just had a list I could begin buying them up and get started working.

Although I don't agree with them I do understand why around the mustang circle I hear "too bad its not the 5.0". Its not because this block isn't capable of making a lot of power. Its just not nearly as accessible to parts availability as the pushrods are. In my case I look at it like well my stock block can do 800hp, and a stock ford iron block in the 90s 5.0s can break at 500hp so the actual numbers speak for themselves. There just need to be an aftermarket supplier step up there game. Trickflow, Edelbrock, and AFR should all be all over this head design and yet, I see no aftermarket heads anywhere. Whoever has the start-up money could have one hell of a business and have it cornered.

I found this link 450 HP 4.6 DOHC but there is no way I would pay $14,000 for an engine with no warranty. I don't care how much power it made. That is simply insane when you look at the parts that is inside. Its like 5x-6x the parts cost in that engine. I mean I can understand 2x-2.5x the money for labor of building but that much? Come on. $14,000 in an engine better be capable of turbo/nitrous and getting close to 1000rwhp..lol damn. Better yet throw in free installation/tune/ and a 2-yr 24,000 mile warranty then I would consider it.
 
#2 ·
In stock form the 4v heads flow enough air for over 1000rwhp easily so there is no reason for aftermarket heads.

If turbo'd or supercharged all you need to is change the rods, pistons, and valvesprings and with 15-7 psi you'll be at 600rwhp.

If wanting to make big hp in n/a form the B heads will have to go as they only work decent when boosted. Any of the C heads will work but the 03/04 heads are a little better, but both will allow you to reach 400rwhp while n/a with the right cams and intake manifold.

There is no need for the 9 thread heads.

I'm in Dayton and have worked more than a few of these engines.
 
#4 ·
U dont really need to spend much for that h.p goal. A stock 4.6 will work for 450 and under after that a set of rods and pistons and your good for about 600 if u want to go over that then a forged crank. For 500whp u can use any block (I would use a teksid because of the weight) get some forged rods and pistons a set of tumble port heads some boost and u r at or over your up goal.
 
#7 ·
Some more tips and tricks for build?



How much is not much and someone else on the thread has said something about forged "bottom end" well the crank is forged its in my 96 cobra as we speak. So correct me if I'm wrong but If i Get some manley forged rods and pistons and have the heads ported/polished new valves and springs installed and valve seals of course and bolt a supercharger on I'm over 400rwhp? My next question is is it going to mandatory to be in a big old hurry to upgrade my engine tranny while I'm doing this? I mean I don't plan on launching it until I get the rest of the drive train done, MM full grip box is in the future as well as a built "pro-performance" cryoed tr3650 he said he rates it conservatively at 575 Ft. LBs. of torque for after I send my core back I'll have like $1,800 in that but I figure rear end wise I realize I will get the 31 splines eventually.

So I guess Just take my block to a machine shop and have them put the rods and pistons in for me then and of course the master rebuild kit and Im good to go right? I dont want to bore this thing, I dont think the cylinder walls are going to be bad its got 153,000 on the engine but its clean leaks ever so slightly around the head gaskets but no oil/water mix just a little drip every now and again. The head work should take care of that problem.

What kind of cost should I be looking for for a reputable shop in Ohio to be willing to put my bottom end together as well as work the heads? I dont have that equipment, but I can reinstall the heads and put engine back in myself. Then I will be looking for a tuner. As for exhaust only thing I need to get is a set of "SHORTY" headers. Any suggestions for future s/c shorties? They dont gotta be ceramic just something durable that I can get 5-10 years out of for driving the streets. Car is also garage kept so water and rusting shouldnt be too much of an issue to get ceramics anyway worst comes to worse I got a welder I can plug holes, I've done it on my magna flow pipes, not buying new metal when a welder works just fine...lol Also Im aware of getting a tune, but have no idea How much a "TUNE" should cost.

I've heard $300-$1500. The latter seems a little crazy to me. Or maybe you guys can suggest a Do-it-Yourself tuner? I've read a little on those do they just plug into the car and a laptop and you manipulate the ECU/PCM yourself? Im pretty good on learning about computer and I can use multimeters to check ohms/volts/amps. So maybe thats an option? Just want to make sure that there is enough information for someone whos going to make their first attempt at using that type of equipment. GOD knows I love buying new tools, I'd like to get a custom Mustang Shop started around here, I got 2 acres, and 3 stalls of detached garage with room to build.

I also like the idea of sticking with my stock cams, as I've read that they are highly sought after because Ford did a good job making those ones from the factory anyway. So any place to cut cost and still make my goal would be wonderful. Any more tips fellas and maybe some prices or shops to speak with around Ohio? thanks.

Jeremy Whipkey
96 SVT cobra
Lowered 1.5
BBK offroad H-pipe
Magnaflow catback
255lph fuel pump
Brand new Msd coils wires and motorcraft plugs.
275/45 R18 Good year zr1's in rear
255/40 R18 " " " front
(plan on buying the Mickey thompson slick and narrow fronts for $1,500 tires and rims from latemodelresto
Pretty much rest is stock except the "real Valeo" king cobra clutch rated for 600hp "no verification on this" because I dont have that much power anyway.
Ford racing Clutch release bearing and Upr short throw shifter and quadrant/fw adjuster.
 
#6 ·
If u try to get 500whp and stay n/a u will spend alot and I mean ALOT of money and the car will not be daily driver friendly. If u r wanting to build it up just build a solid forged 4.6 or 5.0 bottom then use b or c heads witch ever u want with a good valve job. Stock cams are good enough for your h.p goals but if u want go ahead and get some cams just dont go crazy cuz the crazier the cams the less of a daily driver it will be. Get springs to match cams. now u need to decide on boost. turbo or supercharger? They both have there pro's and con's
 
#9 ·
Can anyone suggest places within 2 hours of Belpre, Ohio that does good machine work?

Columbus, Zanesville, Athens, Maybe Cincy?

I want to get the block worked Crank installed with bearings, rods, pistons/rings, as well as take cylinder heads to someone to have them ported, and put new valves, seals, springs in. After that I can do the install and break in myself.

There is nobody reasonable around where I live one guy who charges $60/hr is so backed up around here its like a 6 month wait. Dont really want to deal with him because he takes off for weeks at a time spending everyones rebuild money and getting swamped with work because once he does finally finish one its solid. What cams would help increase low end torque without taking a way streetable completely? Havent gotten a chance to read much on cams since beginning last year working with modular motors.

Drives me crazy some people are blessed with the talent and waste it.
 
#11 ·
Your stock crank with forged rods and pistons will be stronger then u need so your good there. U dont really need to waist money on p&p head work just a good valve job. I wouldnt get shorty headers there a waist of money if u do headers go long tube. After u have all forged internals and good valve job you should have no problem pushing 15psi and that will put u over your 500 rwhp goal. A good valve job where i live is around 350-400$ having someone put your short block togather around 400-500$ not including machine work
 
#12 ·
I thought shorties were the way to go if boost is going to be in the works? I figure longtubes can be used but I coulda swore I read somewhere that it was just too much of a PITA for the minimal gains vs shorties if your already boosting the car. Could have also been misinformation I read I get that sometimes.