My Swap
First off, working on cars is not my full time job. They were no major lifts or air tools involved. This is a true novice build with raw materials i.e. Jack stands, jacks, engine lift (borrowed), and if any power tools were needed to break things loose I rented them. I hope this shows that with help from people like Rob aka Massacre, Todd aka NASVT, Gary aka 96BlackGT54, & Mark aka markolson it can be done.
My 2004 mustang GT motor spun a rod bearing with better then 226K .
http://imageshack.com/i/07img1151bwj
http://imageshack.com/i/j5img1120ukj
I purchased an 06 Mustang GT to take its place. I decided to keep this car since it was paid for and it would save miles on the 06. So I needed to find a motor that would fit in my budget. I found a 95 lincoln mark VIII motor in Charlotte NC for $400 that someone was attempting to do the same thing with but didn't have the funds to get it started. The motor had 95k, according to the seller, that was already out of the car so i didnt get the opportunity to hear it run. It was a risk but I figured why not.
http://imageshack.com/i/5fimg1039jcj
With the 95 motor going into my 04 GT there are a few issues I need to address: COP's vs coil packs, purchasing an intake because the 95 marks intake flow enters in the back vs the side like the Mustangs and 97-98 marks. The IAC, Coolant Sensor , Coil plug wires, Heated PCV connector and TPS all needed to be lengthened since I was using the stock harness and computer.
I begin reading swap threads to help me determine which direction to go. I didn't have the ability to modify a fuel rail if I kept the B heads and use a 96-98 cobra intake with the return less fuel system so I decided to use C heads vs the B heads and get a fuel rail from a 4v motor that used the return less system. The C heads, from the knowledge others had provided, would provide better overall performance then B heads. I found a set of heads from Chuck and Eddie's salvage yard that included the COP valve covers and cams off of a 99 Continental for a final cost of under $200 fully assembled!!
On to the intake. I done some research & ask around to see which setup would be the better option for my build. I was steered in the direction of the Mach 1 intake. According to the above mentioned people the mach was a cleaner package, flowed really well, and was more cost effective then the same cobra intake for the 99/01 Cobra cars. I found a complete intake system for $425 with fuel rails, injectors, Throttle Body, and sensors. This solved two of my major issues. I also found some cheap long tube headers and X-pipe as well, hopefully they will fit correctly as they look rough but for the price I couldn't beat it. I also found a set of 97 Cobra intake cams to install on my build to help it out. According to my sources the 96-98 cobra cams have the most duration and lift of all the stock cobra cams and would add HP to my build. The exhaust cams are the same. I purchased a C & L intake pipe as well. Thats it as far as performance parts right now.
I pulled the rod bearings to check the clearances, which all were actually very good. Here are pics of them.
http://imageshack.com/i/5iimg1192oj
http://imageshack.com/i/6wimg1190lj
Pic of the block cleaned
http://imageshack.com/i/ebimg1193tj
The oil pan, transmission, starter, motor mounts from the 04 will transfer right to the Mark motor. The thing that I didn't know was the small details that needed attention. I changed the oil pump as a safety measure, but the pickup tube on the mark motor wasn't deep enough so a Cobra pickup tube was needed. The middle intake pipe that comes from the water pump to the heater hose in the back will need to be different then the mark because of how deep the mach intake sits in between the heads. The alternator is thinner is body size. The bracket and the crossover coolant tube are different on a C head then the B head. Also FYI to anyone who attempts to do this definitely leave extra money for gasket replacements and the unexpected costs. Take care of that stuff while you got full access to everything easy on the motor, plus its some added insurance and was needed in my case of switching the heads out. I used the ford motorsport 4.6 dohc cylinder head changing kit. Considering what bolts and head gaskets cost individually that is a steal. Replace the sensors as well if you are uncertain of the ones from the donor or new motor. Will need coils for the COP system cause the 2V and 4V coils are different.
http://imageshack.com/i/go20egj
Basically all of my parts were purchased from corral or SVT performance members. In my build the COP cover gaskets can only be purchased from Ford. I could not find a PCV valve hose in a salvage yard or from any member so that as well was purchased from Ford dealer. The throttle cable will be the thing you will struggle to find. They are not available thru ford any longer and finding them for the 99-04 mach 1 and or cobra intake (Terminator cable is totally different) are extremely tough. Be prepared for when you do locate one as they will range from $175-$300 depending on the seller. If you still have your 2v sensors they should switch over as well.
Now as you read this next part understand I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS TO BE THE CORRECT OR PREFERRED WAY!!!! Either spend the money for tools or make do. I installed the cams and timed the motor without the use of the ford cam tools!!!! Crazy sounding I'm sure but if you get it to TDC, with the information Rob and Todd gave me it wasn't that hard. The thing I did was remove the rockers so I could position the cams where I wanted them. According to directions I read and was given they need to be in the 6 O'clock position if you are looking at the block surface flat.
http://imageshack.com/i/n8img1295qij
Pic of what they should look like
http://imageshack.com/i/b8img1301qpj
Pic of mine
http://imageshack.com/i/j8img1307fej
Pic with all chains and sprockets
In other words motor is on an engine stand and I rotated it sideways cams should be pointing straight down See pics. AGAIN I DON'T RECOMMEND THIS!!!! Once I got the cams where I wanted them I bolted the cam journals down to spec where they would not turn, installed the secondary chains to further secure the cams from turning. After all the chains are installed and torqued to spec I popped the rockers back on with a large screwdriver and turned the motor in different positions were I could install the rockers over the lashers without any issue. Some people were concerned about hitting the cam but if you take your time and be cautious it can be done without hitting the cams, cause I done it.
Some have asked the question, "Can you put the DOHC motor in without dropping the K member? Can it be installed from the top with the tranny hooked up? Can it be installed with long tubes on it? Can it be installed from the top with all the above hooked up?" The answer to all is YES it can......but if you are planning on doing long tube headers its important to know what design is of the drivers side header is.
http://imageshack.com/i/1a4levj
http://imageshack.com/i/0jemhmj
http://imageshack.com/i/n1vwsnj
Why? Because the steering shaft depending on the design of the header may or may not have to go in between the header tubes.
http://imageshack.com/i/1nhnfej
If it needs to go in between the header tubes then I would advise dropping the K member and installing the motor from the bottom. If you are using shorties or factory manifolds bolt as much as you can to the motor and drop it in from the top. If I had to do it again I wouldn't bolt the starter or the intake system on until the motor is in the car. I advise on this because I made that mistake and ended up having to drop the K member to access the headers to bolt up my steering shaft. Also would advise against putting the transmission in from the top of the motor as well. If you do the cooling mod and something breaks or gets bent in the process of installing the motor you will find out why. Read note about the cooling mod repair.
Something else that I learned is if you plan to use your factory 2v harness in a 1999-2004 model GT and you plan to keep the COP system in place you will need to know what style connector the coil and on the harness. There is what they call an "Old Style" and a "New Style" connector. See pics.
New style
http://imageshack.com/i/mv19jhj
Old style
http://imageshack.com/i/09mhmzj
There is a size difference and for the coil to lock into place you will need to know which one you have. Because if you have to change the plugs from new style to old style like I did you will not be flipping the wires. In some builds you would need to flip the wires because of the way the 2v and 4v coils connect different. All this is based on the assumption you are using the 2v harness. So pay attention to that or you will find yourself with an issue when you go to start the car. Something else to keep in mind is if you get injectors as a set with the intake or fuel rail know if they are EV1 or EV6 connecting type of injectors. There are adapter kits out there but this will assist you when it comes to those hidden costs no one talks about in their build. My harness was equipped with the EV1 connectors but my injectors were EV6 type. Todd was gracious enough to swap some with me. Saved me a ton of money right there. Big thanks. I lengthened the necessary wires with 16 & 18 gauge wire.
http://imageshack.com/i/077u7mj
http://imageshack.com/i/f310c9j
http://imageshack.com/i/nqafx5j
Take your time lengthening the wires on the coils and try to stagger the wires so it won't be so bunky In those spots. Soldering and shrink wrap is what I done.
Great learning experience and something that I will do next time is label each wire, bolt, bracket and where it come from. Zip lock bags would be the best. Pay special attention to where unique bolts are. Example the bolt at the bottom front face of the timing cover on the drivers side needs to have a short stud end so it won't rub or contact the belt.
If you get a complete mark motor you will need to be mindful of the thermostat housing because the routing and hoses are different. The Mach 1, 96-01 Cobra, and the Lincoln Mark VIII all have a different radiator hose setup in the front. I used the Lincoln thermostat housing to keep costs down. Here are the hoses I used to make it work. Got them from O'reilly Auto Parts by Gates. 20887, 22719, honestly forgot the others lol.
Something also to keep in mind is the timing cover you use will determine the route of your belt system. So if its a 3 bolt tensioner setup then would look for 96-98 cobra setup. I believe the belt is 97" long. I have a one bolt tensioner so it was an 01 cobra & Mach 1 setup if I'm correct. The belt size was 93.5" long. Both are 6 grooves.
Something that most builders do is the cooling mod on the dohc motors. Anyone with knowledge of these motors can agree this is a worth while modification to keep things nice and cool. If you need to access or change a pipe that was broke during installation of the motor in the car know that you can best access those pipes from the bottom!!! I made the mistake of thinking you could get to it by removing the valve covers!! Getting the drivers side valve cover off is a huge pain cause you will need to lift the motor up on the drivers side to get enough clearance. I done this thinking I could access the pipe I was using for the coolant mod…… Huge mistake. Wasted time and energy and ended up finally dropping the transmission to gain access to either pipe on the back of the head. So be extra careful with those. Better yet leave transmission under the car if you plan to do the cooling mod.
http://imageshack.com/i/5vtps6j
The tranny out of the way will allow so much more room. I'm still working the bugs out of it but this is my first build. I will continue posting things here to let you know the progress. If you have any questions or comments please post.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
First off, working on cars is not my full time job. They were no major lifts or air tools involved. This is a true novice build with raw materials i.e. Jack stands, jacks, engine lift (borrowed), and if any power tools were needed to break things loose I rented them. I hope this shows that with help from people like Rob aka Massacre, Todd aka NASVT, Gary aka 96BlackGT54, & Mark aka markolson it can be done.
My 2004 mustang GT motor spun a rod bearing with better then 226K .
http://imageshack.com/i/07img1151bwj
http://imageshack.com/i/j5img1120ukj
I purchased an 06 Mustang GT to take its place. I decided to keep this car since it was paid for and it would save miles on the 06. So I needed to find a motor that would fit in my budget. I found a 95 lincoln mark VIII motor in Charlotte NC for $400 that someone was attempting to do the same thing with but didn't have the funds to get it started. The motor had 95k, according to the seller, that was already out of the car so i didnt get the opportunity to hear it run. It was a risk but I figured why not.
http://imageshack.com/i/5fimg1039jcj
With the 95 motor going into my 04 GT there are a few issues I need to address: COP's vs coil packs, purchasing an intake because the 95 marks intake flow enters in the back vs the side like the Mustangs and 97-98 marks. The IAC, Coolant Sensor , Coil plug wires, Heated PCV connector and TPS all needed to be lengthened since I was using the stock harness and computer.
I begin reading swap threads to help me determine which direction to go. I didn't have the ability to modify a fuel rail if I kept the B heads and use a 96-98 cobra intake with the return less fuel system so I decided to use C heads vs the B heads and get a fuel rail from a 4v motor that used the return less system. The C heads, from the knowledge others had provided, would provide better overall performance then B heads. I found a set of heads from Chuck and Eddie's salvage yard that included the COP valve covers and cams off of a 99 Continental for a final cost of under $200 fully assembled!!
On to the intake. I done some research & ask around to see which setup would be the better option for my build. I was steered in the direction of the Mach 1 intake. According to the above mentioned people the mach was a cleaner package, flowed really well, and was more cost effective then the same cobra intake for the 99/01 Cobra cars. I found a complete intake system for $425 with fuel rails, injectors, Throttle Body, and sensors. This solved two of my major issues. I also found some cheap long tube headers and X-pipe as well, hopefully they will fit correctly as they look rough but for the price I couldn't beat it. I also found a set of 97 Cobra intake cams to install on my build to help it out. According to my sources the 96-98 cobra cams have the most duration and lift of all the stock cobra cams and would add HP to my build. The exhaust cams are the same. I purchased a C & L intake pipe as well. Thats it as far as performance parts right now.
I pulled the rod bearings to check the clearances, which all were actually very good. Here are pics of them.
http://imageshack.com/i/5iimg1192oj
http://imageshack.com/i/6wimg1190lj
Pic of the block cleaned
http://imageshack.com/i/ebimg1193tj
The oil pan, transmission, starter, motor mounts from the 04 will transfer right to the Mark motor. The thing that I didn't know was the small details that needed attention. I changed the oil pump as a safety measure, but the pickup tube on the mark motor wasn't deep enough so a Cobra pickup tube was needed. The middle intake pipe that comes from the water pump to the heater hose in the back will need to be different then the mark because of how deep the mach intake sits in between the heads. The alternator is thinner is body size. The bracket and the crossover coolant tube are different on a C head then the B head. Also FYI to anyone who attempts to do this definitely leave extra money for gasket replacements and the unexpected costs. Take care of that stuff while you got full access to everything easy on the motor, plus its some added insurance and was needed in my case of switching the heads out. I used the ford motorsport 4.6 dohc cylinder head changing kit. Considering what bolts and head gaskets cost individually that is a steal. Replace the sensors as well if you are uncertain of the ones from the donor or new motor. Will need coils for the COP system cause the 2V and 4V coils are different.
http://imageshack.com/i/go20egj
Basically all of my parts were purchased from corral or SVT performance members. In my build the COP cover gaskets can only be purchased from Ford. I could not find a PCV valve hose in a salvage yard or from any member so that as well was purchased from Ford dealer. The throttle cable will be the thing you will struggle to find. They are not available thru ford any longer and finding them for the 99-04 mach 1 and or cobra intake (Terminator cable is totally different) are extremely tough. Be prepared for when you do locate one as they will range from $175-$300 depending on the seller. If you still have your 2v sensors they should switch over as well.
Now as you read this next part understand I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS TO BE THE CORRECT OR PREFERRED WAY!!!! Either spend the money for tools or make do. I installed the cams and timed the motor without the use of the ford cam tools!!!! Crazy sounding I'm sure but if you get it to TDC, with the information Rob and Todd gave me it wasn't that hard. The thing I did was remove the rockers so I could position the cams where I wanted them. According to directions I read and was given they need to be in the 6 O'clock position if you are looking at the block surface flat.
http://imageshack.com/i/n8img1295qij
Pic of what they should look like
http://imageshack.com/i/b8img1301qpj
Pic of mine
http://imageshack.com/i/j8img1307fej
Pic with all chains and sprockets
In other words motor is on an engine stand and I rotated it sideways cams should be pointing straight down See pics. AGAIN I DON'T RECOMMEND THIS!!!! Once I got the cams where I wanted them I bolted the cam journals down to spec where they would not turn, installed the secondary chains to further secure the cams from turning. After all the chains are installed and torqued to spec I popped the rockers back on with a large screwdriver and turned the motor in different positions were I could install the rockers over the lashers without any issue. Some people were concerned about hitting the cam but if you take your time and be cautious it can be done without hitting the cams, cause I done it.
Some have asked the question, "Can you put the DOHC motor in without dropping the K member? Can it be installed from the top with the tranny hooked up? Can it be installed with long tubes on it? Can it be installed from the top with all the above hooked up?" The answer to all is YES it can......but if you are planning on doing long tube headers its important to know what design is of the drivers side header is.
http://imageshack.com/i/1a4levj
http://imageshack.com/i/0jemhmj
http://imageshack.com/i/n1vwsnj
Why? Because the steering shaft depending on the design of the header may or may not have to go in between the header tubes.
http://imageshack.com/i/1nhnfej
If it needs to go in between the header tubes then I would advise dropping the K member and installing the motor from the bottom. If you are using shorties or factory manifolds bolt as much as you can to the motor and drop it in from the top. If I had to do it again I wouldn't bolt the starter or the intake system on until the motor is in the car. I advise on this because I made that mistake and ended up having to drop the K member to access the headers to bolt up my steering shaft. Also would advise against putting the transmission in from the top of the motor as well. If you do the cooling mod and something breaks or gets bent in the process of installing the motor you will find out why. Read note about the cooling mod repair.
Something else that I learned is if you plan to use your factory 2v harness in a 1999-2004 model GT and you plan to keep the COP system in place you will need to know what style connector the coil and on the harness. There is what they call an "Old Style" and a "New Style" connector. See pics.
New style
http://imageshack.com/i/mv19jhj
Old style
http://imageshack.com/i/09mhmzj
There is a size difference and for the coil to lock into place you will need to know which one you have. Because if you have to change the plugs from new style to old style like I did you will not be flipping the wires. In some builds you would need to flip the wires because of the way the 2v and 4v coils connect different. All this is based on the assumption you are using the 2v harness. So pay attention to that or you will find yourself with an issue when you go to start the car. Something else to keep in mind is if you get injectors as a set with the intake or fuel rail know if they are EV1 or EV6 connecting type of injectors. There are adapter kits out there but this will assist you when it comes to those hidden costs no one talks about in their build. My harness was equipped with the EV1 connectors but my injectors were EV6 type. Todd was gracious enough to swap some with me. Saved me a ton of money right there. Big thanks. I lengthened the necessary wires with 16 & 18 gauge wire.
http://imageshack.com/i/077u7mj
http://imageshack.com/i/f310c9j
http://imageshack.com/i/nqafx5j
Take your time lengthening the wires on the coils and try to stagger the wires so it won't be so bunky In those spots. Soldering and shrink wrap is what I done.
Great learning experience and something that I will do next time is label each wire, bolt, bracket and where it come from. Zip lock bags would be the best. Pay special attention to where unique bolts are. Example the bolt at the bottom front face of the timing cover on the drivers side needs to have a short stud end so it won't rub or contact the belt.
If you get a complete mark motor you will need to be mindful of the thermostat housing because the routing and hoses are different. The Mach 1, 96-01 Cobra, and the Lincoln Mark VIII all have a different radiator hose setup in the front. I used the Lincoln thermostat housing to keep costs down. Here are the hoses I used to make it work. Got them from O'reilly Auto Parts by Gates. 20887, 22719, honestly forgot the others lol.
Something also to keep in mind is the timing cover you use will determine the route of your belt system. So if its a 3 bolt tensioner setup then would look for 96-98 cobra setup. I believe the belt is 97" long. I have a one bolt tensioner so it was an 01 cobra & Mach 1 setup if I'm correct. The belt size was 93.5" long. Both are 6 grooves.
Something that most builders do is the cooling mod on the dohc motors. Anyone with knowledge of these motors can agree this is a worth while modification to keep things nice and cool. If you need to access or change a pipe that was broke during installation of the motor in the car know that you can best access those pipes from the bottom!!! I made the mistake of thinking you could get to it by removing the valve covers!! Getting the drivers side valve cover off is a huge pain cause you will need to lift the motor up on the drivers side to get enough clearance. I done this thinking I could access the pipe I was using for the coolant mod…… Huge mistake. Wasted time and energy and ended up finally dropping the transmission to gain access to either pipe on the back of the head. So be extra careful with those. Better yet leave transmission under the car if you plan to do the cooling mod.
http://imageshack.com/i/5vtps6j
The tranny out of the way will allow so much more room. I'm still working the bugs out of it but this is my first build. I will continue posting things here to let you know the progress. If you have any questions or comments please post.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
