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4r70w - powerpack clutch needed for 393 street stroker?

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2.8K views 16 replies 3 participants last post by  azmack  
#1 ·
Tossing between going stock clutches i got in the alto kit vs the powerpack clutches (I have the stamped steel drum)..

Might remove this later for the 429 i plan on stroking down the road, but for now im sure the stock clutches will hold up fine behind a 11:1 393 stroker for weekend cruises and of course burn outs?

Also - is the jmod recommend for my tans year 2001? I have a transgo kit im putting in as well..

steels look brand new in this unit- clutches too - plan was just a stock freshen up, new seals and acc pistons/seals. Drum perfectly flat too- doesnt seem it needs too much..
 
#2 ·
The Alto frictions are decent. Personally I run the Raybestos stage 1 reds in high hp street applications. Adding an additional friction in the direct and forward pack makes a huge difference, 7 frictions in the direct and 6 in the forward works without shaving the piston. Sonnax makes drums for both that hold addition frictions without using thinner steels. Get the Sonnax “Sure cure” kit, it addresses specific seals that leak with better seals etc.
 
#3 ·
Thanks - so to add the extra clutch I need an extra plate too, do i get the same thickness as i have in there now (assuming stock) or are you saying i should buy the whole pack.. i have the Alto 049754AHP currently in my cart with a fwd sun gear shaft (mine is worn and lightly pitted)

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#4 ·
You need to measure your current steel thickness as well as frictions. To fit an additional friction, you will need thinner steels and frictions, they should be ~.061 . You adjust the end play via thinner snap ring, The snap rings range is thickness from .064 to .106. The alto power pack is already pre measured so it’s plug and play. The problem with the alto power pack is the thinner steels tend to warp from the heat; ive used them with a good cooler and never had any issues.
Sonnax has replacement drums with pistons that alllow for additional frictions that are thicker by thinning the piston and moving the snap ring groove.
You only needs the additional frictions in the forward and direct drums, reverse and intermediate clutches are fine as is. Most issues with the 4R are from the forward clutch, it sees full torque in 1st and 2nd gear.
 
#6 ·
I'd suggest buying at least the aftermarket intermediate shaft, plus the Sonnax Forward drum(better of two they make). That shaft is a major weak link for above stock power, and as said the forward drum could use more clutches. The Sonnax forward drum is forged unlike the stock stamped drum, it's much stronger, I think it takes seven clutches minimum(stock thickness). I just ordered another one of those from Rock Auto, $179 +S&tax.

The Sonnax direct drum kit is more special, it replaces both the stock drum, and the intermediate shaft(it's one piece). But that kit requires the included special sun gear to go over the thicker "intermediate" shaft, so the cost is $650ish. That's best if you begin to push the limits of the stock direct drum and that intermediate shaft.

Skip the TransGo shift kit, do the Jerry's Mod, plus the various VB items Sonnax sells. That should be basic minimum to build a 4R trans.


 
#7 ·
Can you list the sonnax vb parts? there are too many. for me to know what would replace the transgo kit.. i did order all new bonded pistons/acc set, new wiggle spring thing, new acc springs and the rev clutch spring. Also beefed up/thicker vb plate ..

I will likely open the trans up later when i go big block and invest in the more HP parts, for now a street 393 stroker shd be ok with the simple mods surely..
 
#8 · (Edited)
The Sonnax Zip kit is the best overall VB group of parts they have. The Jerry's Mod is the best performance upgrade, the Sonnax parts are for improving overall function and reducing fluid leakage. Those together are very good for the 4R.

Note that Sonnax has engineered a new VB item that is not included in the Zip kit, it is more recent and they haven't changed the Zip kit. I like that one also because it is a progressive pressure boost upgrade, it replaces the pressure regulator valve and spring in that one VB circuit. So IMO, the best group is the Zip kit without using the items in that made for the PR circuit, plus the Line Pressure Booster Kit;

The Sonnax part numbers are the best way to locate those items online for best pricing. Rock Auto sells many of Sonnax parts, though the part numbers they used sometimes are not identical to what Sonnax has on their site. As I mentioned before, the Sonnax forward drum is only $179 from RA, but Summit and others want $230 or so. So hunt for a while for the part numbers. The Zip kit was usually around $100(now $130+), that Line Pressure Booster Kit is not cheap, RA has had it for $65 or so, other places it's been $80 or more.

Here's the Zip kit for $102+S&T from RA;
 
#10 ·
That will work great, I'm going to need one or two of those for my 73 Ranchero's later.
 
#13 ·
Yes, the Jerry's Mod is better for almost all 4R builds. The TransGo kit I have myself in a box and likely to not ever use. That's best for a basically stock power level and it's very good for overall function. Higher power levels are not ideal for using the TransGo kit in a 4R, the common power people have now versus 30 years ago. The individual Sonnax items take care of improving the reliability of the VB and trans, which is what the TransGo kits were originally for and did work well. I like TransGo the best for Ford shift kits, except for this 4R transmission. I had the HD kit in my first Mark VII LSC, that kit is wonderful for an AOD, for street use and performance. So I'm familiar with TransGo VB kits, I've installed them into four AOD's, two A4LD's, a 5R55E, and two 4R's. My Crown Vic's were stock police models, thus stock power. The two TransGo kits worked well in those, but they weren't notably special to me; they make an SK kit like you have, and a performance level kit which isn't harsh at all.

For the Jerry's Mod, that is basically free but the time it takes to drill the holes. It's intended to have new accumulator springs installed(easy to buy for $22 and $10 each). The hole sizes are explained on the forum for 90's Thunderbird's and Lincoln's. So you can choose a milder shift firmness. Note that the softer the shift is, that more slippage is happening. Firmer is better for lifespan, so I aim for a middle shift firmness.
 
#14 ·
Yes, don't install more than one "shift" kit in a VB. The Jerry's mod is that kind of upgrade, but it's designed by one of the original 4R70W engineers, and it covers the same things as aftermarket VB kits.
 
#16 ·
The TCCOA forum is a good source for information, while some of it is a bit old. Finding some of the odd parts is hard today given the current lack of supplies. So things like the accumulators can be tough to get, as well as some of the springs or solenoids.
 
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#17 ·
Jerry aka “Jmod” was indeed one of the engineers who designed the 4R. There was an awesome write up Jerry did on TOCCO some years back, it’s the go to guide for all things 4R related. I have a digital copy of it somewhere, but I believe it’s still on the TOCCO forum or there’s a link. There’s a few guys out there who really know how to mod the 4R to get the very best out of them, Dan @ Silverfox, Jay Broader @ Broader performance, and Darrin Burch @ BCA. I know Jay and Dan both sell custom kits, I don’t know if Darrin is still in the game. Outside of the Sonnax, WIT ( short for what ever it takes) is probably the best source for parts, especially for hard parts like drums, pistons etc.