I use the 130M 3/4 groove bearings. IMO they are the best bearing for a 351W.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=FEM-130M&autoview=sku

 

I use the 130M 3/4 groove bearings. IMO they are the best bearing for a 351W.
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thanks man! BUT excuse the question if it is dumb, I see you are running a 69 351w block, im assuming machined for a roller cam? Are the main and rod bearings for roller and non roller 351w blocks the same, in other words interchangeable?

 

The early block uses a different bearing than your 96 block, the tang location is different

 

can you throw some good part #s for my application my way, Please??

 

h bearings are fine. just have the machine shop get em

 

thats an option, as long as they dont want to rape me with their price on them. BUT id much rather know which 1s i need.

 

You want the 130M bearings I previously mentioned. Strokeme is right and I had my 69 block machined to accept the 130M bearing tangs. Your 96 block will need no modifications to run the bearings.

 

cool, one more question, what is the significance of groove location? and the style. Ive seen upper and lower for the location and for style from full, 1/2 to now those with 3/4?

 

The full grove bearings disable the oil from supporting the journal/bearing in the critical load area. The 3/4 grove stuff mandates the oil push between the journal and bearing in the high load area

 

It was my understanding that full groove bearings allow the rods to recieve oil 100% of the time, not just when the oil hole was exposed to the upper groove.

Rusty

 

3/4 groove bearings!

You also want to run a larger then normal bearing clearance on the mains and a high volume oil pump to keep the 3 inch mains cool and well lubed.

-Dan

 

In my testings the 3/4 groove bearings with about .0025-.003" clearance running a melling select (standard volume) pump. I am running the Calico coated berings in my latest buid. A high volume pump is just a waste, unless you are feeding a supercharger or turbochager to boot.

 

So .0025 clearance on the mains. What are you spec-ing on the rods? I tried getting some of these Speed Pro bearings and am having a hard time finding some that are .020 in under.

 

My 357 is setup as follows

.0035 +.0005 -.0000 on the mains

.0025 +0005 -.0000 on the rods

This was with "stock" dimension parts, my rods and mains were .010 under.

 

You need more clearance than .0020 on the 3.0" main performance Windsors.

Clevite's main bearing is Ms1432h, but is only available in a .010 undersize.

Brian

 

Sorry to hijack the thread but I think this is a good discussion

Brian,
What are the differences in the P and H bearings. So the H is performance, what does that mean to the motor. It looks like the same tri metals are used.

Eagle & LT1HAHA:
After reading up on here I am leaning toward the 3/4 groove Speed Pro 130M bearings, a HV pump and shooting for .0028-.0030 clearance on the mains and .0022 on the rods. Rods are standard late model rods though maybe .0025 would be better. Does the combo sound about right?

 

find another machinist FAST!!!!

 

I need to measure the crank bearings when torqued down in the block. Last time I rebuilt it I had it align honed so I might have total bearing to journal clearance of .0025. The machinist was stating that he was going to cut the crank to spec of .0018-.0020. I might have another .001 in my caps. Does that make sense? Im getting confused.

I will be checking everything with a bore gauge with the bearings installed before i get the crank cut. to everyone with .0025 to .0030 main bearing clearance. Are you running a HV HP oil pump or a standard pump?

 

p and a H is different in bearing SHAPE and any slight coating///...some use a different material backing...

a "twenty under main" crank is kinda doubtfull....

the bearing FIT will depend on the accuracy of the align hone and the dimension that it was honed to...
this dimension will influence how much "crush" or "pinch" is in the insert when the cap studs are torqued down...
this also influences how much oil clearance there is as a result.

from there, the cranks is THEN made to "fit"... by either polishing or actually haveing crank ground accurately to a "nineteen under or a twenty one under " dimension to obtain the amount of oil clearance that you need.....


speed - pro inserts do not measure the same as a ACL or a clevite type....

you have to rely on the machinist and the align hone setup to be PROPER....

 

Definitely not.

I think all engine builders wish.

 

this is also why the EXACT finish diameter of the align hone it suppose top be matched to the BRAND AND TYPE of insert being used...and then that ACTUAL insert is installed and cap fastened to block and actually measured with a bore-mic/ dialbore gage....
and then corresponding changes then made to the actual crank.

pull out five or so of the same bearings ...all from the SAME EXACT part number / brand / type size listed ETC..\

you will see 1/2 a thousandth difference between them...
comon to find .0002 range of shell thicknesses.

the finish alignhone size will change depending on what brand insert is being used.

and then there is each individual machinists experience..

and then there is each individual engine builders desires....

these little things make a large difference when properly fitting a 3 inch main saddle of a 351 W block.

cranks vary .0002 from the crankshop.

if you cant measure it accuratly YOURSELF,
you have to rely on what they say...

that then gives no positive feeling of any level of accuracy.

 

there are instances of a 21 under bearing fitted to a 19 under crank..

and there are 19 under bearings that are fitted to a 21 under crank...

it all depends on what company made the inserts,
and how tight the insert is installed into the block saddle and the cap.
and then the resultant oil clearance is FOUND.

 

Well I had to take my crank back twice but ended up getting .0029 on the Mains and .0025 on the rods with the Clevite 77 bearings. Nice! Best scenario I found was to install the bearings in mains and rods, torque, take the measurement, then have the crank cut. I actually ended up taking the parts down to the shop to make sure his tools and mine read the same. There was even a .0003 difference between his mic and mine! #####!