You can get a TwEECer and tune the ECU if you need too. That will let you update you shift points and stuff.

 

Do you already have something you're tuning with on that combo?

 

Car starts good along with decent idle.
Its a bit rich, but I know we're leaving a lot of hp the table

 

No, just matched mass air and injectors along with msd 6 btm

 

So you went from cutting the fuel off, to have raw fuel dump into the cylinders with the BTM?

 

Basically yes

 

a shift kit

 

+1 on doing a shift kit, or "jmod" if you haven't already.

That said, your options for tuning the stock eec are tweecer which are still purchaseable, or quarterhorse which you have to find 2nd hand.

Decipha's site has all you could need for learning about or getting tuned on the stock eec.

Your other option is a Baumann controller (usshift.com), which I think has less control than stock eec with one of those tuning platforms.

I personally have found downshifting to 1st useless from those speeds so I've tuned it to hold 2nd or downshift no further than 2nd.

Then there's other options like converter lockup functions, etc. The challenge you will run into is finding what works - there's alot of interrelated tables and sometimes changing something doesn't get you the expected result because its overridden by something else.

 

Killer,thanks for the info:
I talked to my transmission builder, he told me that the tuning that I am referring about is controlled by the ECU (exactly what you had said)
My builder also told me that i probably need to buy the Tweecer and have the car dyno tuned to optimize my performance before I try to get the driveability, and shift points where I want it.

The transmission has better clutches, and all of the needed upgrades to beef it up a bit.

I realize that this is a daily driver, but it sucks to stand on the gas from a roll and it boils the tires until the fuel shut off hits.
I don't want to lean it out under boost and take out a head gasket.