Anyone? Anyone?

Any help is appreciated...

 

yeah, put the 95 computer in and then let us know what codes you get. you might as well throw what ever codes you get out the window or throw that code reader out the window being that it is useless with the pih in place.

You would have better luck finding a hay stack, throwing a needle into it, and then trying to find said needle (at least you would know there is a needle in it, instead of phantom codes).

I would try the windsor forum, maybe they will have a better suggestion. As far as I know, with the pih the codes you retrieve are non existant or not useful.

Good luck with your issue.

 

Clean the contacts of the big EEC harness connector with contact cleaner spray. Let dry. Now, get some dielectric compound and put just a tiny bit on each pin. Now reconnect the computer...take the connector off...put back on...off...back on... See if that helps. I had the same crappy problems you have on my A9L in my Ranger 5.0...dying, fuel pump staying on, errors. I had some crap on the connectors, I guess. I did what I mentioned here and the problem never returned...even after 5 years. Dielectric grease is magic.

Also had my '95 die on me and lose it's marbles out of nowhere. Had this happen a few times. Took my EEC-Tuner out, cleaned the connector, used dielectric grease, and has been fine since.

It's at least a shot and cheap!

 

thanks ttbit, as a matter of fact, i did clean some connections. I cleaned the old dielectric grease from the TFI mating surface to the finned aluminum bracket and put new grease on, put dielectric grease in the TFI connector, and put dielectric grease in the CCRM connector and still nothing. I will try actually doing the A9L cleaning, but its all fairly new so i would think corrosion is not really there yet. I will do it for peace of mind though. Thanks...

Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

It might be the alt and battery. If the system gets below 10 volts it will automatically everything down.

 

My car did the same thing felt like someone turned the key off. Sometimes it would start back up sometimes you would have to let it sit for awhile,then it would restart. It ended up being the stator. It's inside the dist. I bought a rebuilt dist. from autozone and it fixed the problem. You can buy the stator and replace it, but its a pressed fit and a pain to swap it out. It's much eaiser to swap out the dizzy. Racer XXX.

 

thanks racer xxx, it makes sense too. I have had trouble with the stator in my fox's as well, but they didnt act exactly like this car. Well, my first plan of business is to wait till my buddy with his 94 GT comes home from school and i'll start swapping parts so i dont go and waste money on un-needed parts.

Thanks everyone!

 

Derek - you have some serious bad luck with mustangs.
I vote for putting the original Cobra EEC back in.

-Jason

 

I dont think the cobra ECU will fix the crazy CCRM and possibly faulty TFI or Stator . And talk about weird, the car hasnt started in almost 2 days and this morning i try to start it to mess with it some more, and the car is running awsome. It has been running and idling for nearly 10 minutes. I turned it off once and restarted it just to be sure that it wasnt a fluke and the car is still outside running as i type. I havnt actually driven it yet, i am waiting for my ride as i am going to tampa in a few minutes, but when i get back thats the first thing i am doing.

Electrical germblins suck! Oh well, it should be an easy fix and then i can enjoy the drive again.

 

Yep, our cars suck because everything is ground activated, and almost every electrical module has to be screwed down into a good ground area.

One thing you might wanna try to determine if its a bad TFI or stator - remove the SPOT altogether and set the base timing at like 24 degrees. If it stops dying, you will know you need a stator

If the CCRM is bad, just ditch it and get a temp switch for the electric fan unless you can find a ccrm out of a junkyard. Those things are expensive..

-Jason

 

If the CCRM is bad, just ditch it and get a temp switch for the electric fan unless you can find a ccrm out of a junkyard. Those things are expensive..

-Jason

I cannot imagine the car even starting without the CCRM...how so?

 

Mine started up just fine with the CCRM plugged and and not grounded. Fans woudlnt come on, and it threw a check engine light though. I didnt think the CCRM was the relay for the EEC/Fuel pump in our year cars, but I guess I could be wrong.

I just figured without a ground - how could it be a relay for anything critical to the engine running?

-Jason

 

One thing you might wanna try to determine if its a bad TFI or stator - remove the SPOT altogether and set the base timing at like 24 degrees. If it stops dying, you will know you need a stator

-Jason

Umm, how would one set the timing if the car won't start/run in the first place? Is one supposed to drive around like this once the car does start? Is that a good idea?

I didnt think the CCRM was the relay for the EEC/Fuel pump in our year cars, but I guess I could be wrong.

You are. There are a few things inside that CCRM that is important.

I cannot imagine the car even starting without the CCRM...how so?

Ditto.

I just figured without a ground - how could it be a relay for anything critical to the engine running?

I do believe the black/wht wire at the CCRM harness is the ground.

I can't help you much carbd86gt. Did you try posting in a different forum since you are running a different comp? My only suggestion for you is maybe the stator(hall effect/PIP) sensor is bad.

Jason

 

Ok, quick question, what would happen if you turn off the ignition while hwy travelling? Would the engine seize? would it keep on rolling and get damaged??

 

The CCRM does control quite a few things and without it, the car will not run, i found that out after i got done with the motor build and tried starting it. I forgot to plug and screw it back in (CCRM) and i was frustrated as to why my fuel pumps and fan were not turning on. The car wouldnt even try to start, once i found out what i forgot about, the car fired right up. This is my first sn95, i have always owned foxes and i miss them a lot now that i got this car. I like this car, but i will always say fox>sn95, i never had any problems with any of my foxes even with some going over 200k miles. Thanks for the help everyone...

Ok, quick question, what would happen if you turn off the ignition while hwy travelling? Would the engine seize? would it keep on rolling and get damaged??

Nothing bad will happen. Even though the engine is not firing, if its in gear the motor will be turning and that will turn the oil pump. As long as it has oil i cant see anything bad happening.

 

****ing corral broken again

 

ok, so i just started it back up after getting home from my weather shortened trip. It started fine, idled fine.... for about 1 minute. It tried, keyword tried, to stall again but it cought itself and was able to bring the rpms back up on its own and idle and run fine after that. When it tried to die, there was a loud squeek that came from the engine bay and then the rpms dropped, but i was in the car not in the engine bay. It hasnt f'ed up after that one little stumble, so i am going to let it cool down and see if it will do it again....

 

I'd check, clean and tighten all your grounds first. From the battery to the engine and the small wire from the battery to the radiator support, from the engine mounts to the inter-fender well.

Joe

 

Another vote for distributor...sounds very familiar.

 

ok, well i ordered a distributor and am getting ready to put it in. I'd really hate to just start throwing parts at it, but i guess i will start with the most common failing part. I guess if that doesnt do it i will install a new TFI module. And speaking of the TFI modules, are the MSD ones any good? I was either going to get the MSD one or a replacement one from the local autoparts store that has a 5 year warantee. All the others have a 1 year warantee and only cost $10 less, so i figured the better warantee is worth it.

 

put the distributor in and it seems to be running well. I took it out for a spin and to get my core charge back from the original distributor. The car seems to idle and rev smoother, although i still have a slight stumble when i stab the gas which is due to a POS MAF (it has always done this but is almost cleared up).

So i guess for now, so far so good.