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1/8 Mile bracket racing tire/gear?'s

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17K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  Pony408  
#1 ·
What are you guys running?
Looking to do a ladder bar back half and a 9" on an 89GT 1/8 only bracket car and wonder what tire/gear everyone is running. Ran 7.30's untuned and with unmatched converter. Looking for mid to high 6's with tuning and new converter. Launching weak because of converter and getting 2-3 shift light at traps shifting at 6500. Would like to trap about 7000-7500 in 3rd, so I would think I need at least a 5.14 and a bigger tire to hold that much gear but not too big for my motor. I was thinking of a 29.5X11.5W or 13.5. The two goals I want out of this is consistancy and a rear end I can grow into when I can build a 5 sec motor but not overkill for my current combo. Thanks for any input.

358W 13:3 CR
Comp solid roller-696/672 lift 298/312 dur
Ported Vic Jr heads
Vic Jr intake
Proform 950
C4 w/brake
8.8 w/4.10's
28X10.5
 
#5 ·
What are you guys running?
Looking to do a ladder bar back half and a 9" on an 89GT 1/8 only bracket car and wonder what tire/gear everyone is running. Ran 7.30's untuned and with unmatched converter. Looking for mid to high 6's with tuning and new converter. Launching weak because of converter and getting 2-3 shift light at traps shifting at 6500. Would like to trap about 7000-7500 in 3rd, so I would think I need at least a 5.14 and a bigger tire to hold that much gear but not too big for my motor. I was thinking of a 29.5X11.5W or 13.5. The two goals I want out of this is consistancy and a rear end I can grow into when I can build a 5 sec motor but not overkill for my current combo. Thanks for any input.

358W 13:3 CR
Comp solid roller-696/672 lift 298/312 dur
Ported Vic Jr heads
Vic Jr intake
Proform 950
C4 w/brake
8.8 w/4.10's
28X10.5
with the right converter, you should be able to get your goal with the gears you have.
 
#6 ·
You need a new convertor and some tuning. You should easily run mid 6's @ around 3000lbs. Plenty of cars are running 7's in the quarter with an 8.8 and 28x10.5's. a 9 inch and larger tire will only slow you down unless you are building a torque monster motor.
 
#7 ·
Check out my sig below.It was a ladder car with a 9-inch rear and very consistancy.I NEVER shift it over 6700 with a 70's 302 block because it ran good enough for me in 1/8mi bracket 2 class racing.:)
 
#16 ·
I can't remember trap RPM but the stall was a 8"TCI 5500.I footbrake at 3500rpm.
 
#9 ·
stock style suspension

1/8 mile Bracket Racer

Very consistant...6.40's.

Mid 1.30's 60ft times.

28x10.5 MT

8.8 with 5.14's

C4 with Brake 5600 8" stall

6800 shift.... cross at aproximatly 7200.


I built another car replicated off my Mule for my nephew.

basically same set-up

He runs High 6.20 low 6.30s

Very consistant also.

First night of racing after a couple of shakedown outings he took the finals in the Bracket 2.

Like was said earlier....the 9" and big tires will slow you down.

And having a BIG tire car doesn't mean consistancy and reliable traction.

I have had(hear) BIG tire cars crying foul on the track surface....untill I stand it straight up when I made my pass. Made believers in several racers at the local track.


I too agree you should be able to get what you looking for with the set-up you have.

I went 6.70's with 4.10's and a 10" 4500 stall before I switched to the current parts listed above.
 
#10 ·
pony408,

While I was seriously considering sticking with 28" tire from all the experienced advice in this post, seeing you running a 5.14 i think just about convinced me. That and the 5600 converter was around what I'm putting in. You never had traction problems launching with that gear and converter? Another thing I have to consider is will that tire hold in the future when/if I ever build a 5 sec motor. I know people are going in the 7's in the 1/4 but since this is 1/8 only, just wonder if 700-800hp (long term goal) and 5.13/14 would be too much on a small tire for half track, or am I worrying for nothing? I just want to have to do rear chassis once. Another reason I was leaning towardds a ladder bar is the lower tq boxes are trashed, but I guess I could get the new lower WR s-boxes. Is your susp all baseline? I would most likely go with that if i did 8.8. if so did you use the 1/2" or 5/8" bolts and ends. Also do you run tubes and screws? thanks for the ino and sorry or all the questions but your setup and stats mirror exactly what i'm looking for.
 
#11 ·
I agree with PONY408 100%.
I run 4.10 gears, UPR rear suspension, 10 wide rims, wheel screws, 28x10.5 (stiff wall) ET Drags, 33 spline axles/spools. My car is very repeatable on the 60 foot. My 2 step typically stays at 4200. Car runs high 6.60's.
Search Youtube.com for VanPelt408 for some videos.
 
#12 ·
Don't fear the gear!!! With the RPM you're gonna be turning 5.13's will be fine with 28's. While less gear will go down the track, the 5.13's will keep your motor in the upper range more. Plus your 60ft will be stronger. I know its all about the converter, but it may not be so hard to please with the lower gears. I run 5.50's with a 9 in and 29.5's. With my old combo I ran 5.13's and a 28 with 1.35-38 60ft's. Keep in mind this is with a stick.
 
#15 ·
I got tired of breaking 8.8 rears launching at 7000 with a Jerico. I went ahead and did the mini tub at the same time so I didn't have to shorten the rear later. Did it all at one time. 29.5's fit perfect.
 
#14 ·
I've heard many say that the best 1/8 mile gear is the best 1/4 gear. There are a lot of us on the west coast that either a) test 1/4 mile and class race 1/8 (me) or b) run both 1/4 and 1/8 class/associations (i.e. PSCA, WCHRA).

I've ran the following:

2840# 1988 Mustang
436" SBC, twin fogger kits
8.8 rearend with 3.73 gears
Powerglide transmission with a 1.80 first gear
28x10.5 stiff wall ET Drag
Wolfe uppers/lowers

On the best quarter mile pass of an 8.02 @ 172, we got our best 1/8 pass - 5.13 @ 141. Best sixty foot to date was a 1.23 with an average of a 1.27 depending on how we treat the two nitrous kits off the line with the progressive controllers.