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steeda spring spacer question

4.9K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  white50  
#1 ·
I bought some spring spacers from steeda and they told me to put them in between the upper isolator and the spring. Well if I do that the spring won't have a lip to sit in.

Is this right or is there another way?
 
#3 ·
Put the spacers between the upper isolator and the k-frame. That should work better.

How thick are the Steeda spacers? Are they 1/8", 1/4", or 1/2" each?
 
#8 ·
Where you able to buy just the spacers? Or, did you have to buy them as part of the x2 ball joint "kit"?

I didn't see the spacers listed as a separate item on Steeda's web-site. You can no longer get the Kenny Brown 1/8" spacers until the emerge from "re-org/bankruptcy".
 
#9 ·
Global West sells spring spacers.
 
#10 ·
The only thing I saw on the Global West web-site was spring spacers for the rear.

I ordered a set of the X2/FRPP ball-joints so I could get the spacers. I can always sell the X2 ball-joints by themselves.
 
#14 · (Edited)
:O

I paid over $100 incl S&H. Oh well, live and learn. :)


I got the Steeda/FRPP spacers. Now, I'm confused to why you and other had problems. The spacer is 0.25" tall. The Stock OEM upper rubber isolator has an inside and outside "wall" of ~0.40". The Energy Suspension uppers isolators that I have laying around (I went with different ones) have an inside wall of ~0.50" and and outside "wall" of ~0.35".

I also have 10 pairs of front springs (long story). I don't see any problem putting the spacer between an upper isolator (new or used) and the spring. Just use a tie-wrap (new method) or electrical tape (old method) to keep the isolator and spacer on the top of the spring while doing the install.

Also, putting the spacer between the spring and the isolator will raise the car about ~0.05" -> 0.1" :) since the end of the pig tail will not "indent" the isolator more than the rest of the flat part of the spring.


I've read a few times about people having problems putting the spacer between the spring and the isolator. But, now, I don't understand the problem. Maybe someone can give me more insight into why some people had problems? Is there something I'm missing?



white50:
Thanks again for the info!

The delivery of my 95 Cobra *R* springs will be delayed to next week. So, I'll give Steeda a call and then I could return these X2 ball-joints & spacers.
 
#15 ·
No problem StangPlus. I have the prothane isolators and when I put the spacer in the isolator it took up all of the lip for the spring. Even if the isolator compressed some and created some lip for the spring I didn't feel it was safe enough. Putting it on the top worked out real well though.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the info. I was wondering if it was something like that. I have the ?BBK? isolators on my car now. I do remember that all of the isolators were a little different in depth. I guess that some are deep and some are shallow.

I'm going to do a spring tech article. I'd like to add in the "Gotchas" that can occur. I've had a number. I've gotten cut/broken/incorrect springs. I even got a pair of "new" Eibachs instead of '98 springs from a salvage yard in the south that I ordered from. :-O I might keep all of the springs for another year+, so that if any questions come up after my tech article, I'd have the springs handy. Around ?June? of *08*, I'll start selling off the extra springs that I have. Mark the date in your book! ;) But, I'll still likely keep a few pair. I'd like to get my car ~1" lower than stock. But, with my tires so "far out" (almost even with the fender), I'm not sure how that would be on the BUMPY mega-deep-pot hole ridden New England roads.

______

Joe '86 GT with M2300K Cobra brakes, ABS, and more springs than you could shake a stick at. :D
 
#17 ·
I'm running '98 spindles and BBS wheels that are even with the fender. After I had it aligned with -1.5* camber it fits great. The steeda comp springs brought me down ~1.5" then i added the poly isolators and spacers. That brought me back up ~.5". Just run some negative camber and it'll be fine. -1* to 1.5* is ok for street use.