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SideWayzGT

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I dont need to spend all this money on them. Ive looked into the mac upper and lower for $250 and the bbk for $300 that including upper and lower. NOw i guess i dont need any adjustable ones i dont need all of this clearence. By the way what would you get the adjustable ones for let me know. ALso which uppers and lowers to get thanks.
 
HP Motorsport arms....

I have a set of the HP Motorsport Mega Bite Jr. lower control arms and the Heavy Duty non-adjustable uppers and they are completely amazing!!

The Mega Bite Jr's are one of the only arms out there that actually changes the rear suspension to produce more downforce on the tires when acceleration and keeps the tires on the ground during heavy braking. And the solid uppers seem to do a great job of locating things.

I am not a techy that understands all the physics of this stuff, but what I do know is that with the HPM panhard bar I have as well, my rear suspension is absolutely awesome. The car takes off so well and has so much traction. Even when I stop hard during autocrossing the car has so much for control than with standard arms.

I think I paid around $250 for the lowers and $100 for the uppers. The Mac and other arms are only solid replacements. They do nothing to help the car.

Just what I got and I love it!!!!!!!
 
It depends what you're looking for. If you care more about traction while racing, or handling ability. The Megabite Jr.'s grip well, but if you get them, you should also have your torque boxes reinforced.
 
MAC & BBK are basically the same(though some will argue), they both have polyurathane bushings & same designed arm.......some adj. lowers allow you to lower the car up to 1" & raise the car up to 3". you can drop to get desired drop heighth or raise to fit taller tires for track use. the adj. uppers allow you to change pinion angle of the rearend.....what you purchase depends on what you want from your stang. do you just drag? do you auto-x? truth is the cheaper arms are basically stock replacements & somtimes even hurt performance due to the deflection & bind induced by the polyurathane bushings. spherical end bushings are a huge improvement over urathane & solid end arms totally eliminate bind but really put a hurting on your drivetrain as well as enhance drivetrain noise.............my car is set for the street. i run pro3i afjustable lowers & FRPP uppers. im very happy with this set up along with my drag radials. dont forget to weld up your upper & lower torque boxes, aftermarket arms put more strain on these especially if you go with sticky tires!
good luck!
 
Discussion starter · #5 · (Edited)
Basically im looking for performance out of them. My car is my daily driver. And when i get them put them on ill also get my torque boxes welded. BUt i am also looking for a nice stiff ride. BY what you guys are telling me about bbk and mac they are out of the question so which uppers and lowers to reccomend besides them. Im looking for my car to have a nice solid good riding car and can also perform well in the 60' at the track. This is the combo that i was looking for in suspension. I deff want something i can use every day and wont hurt my car like you were saying.

Good shocks and struts
Eibach drag launch spring kit
subframe connectors
welded torque boxes
good upper and lower control arms
 
i would go w/maximum motorsport lowers and frpp uppers. they will help your 60' times, won't cause bind when turning, are easier on the torque boxes, and feel solid on the car. i have mac now and there is a difference, i can feel it.
just my .02 worth!
 
i would go w/an adjustable shock/strut combo. if you're more serious about racing you can get some 70/30's or 90/10's for the front and 50/50's for the rear (lakewood). the adjustables will cost tho!

a friend has the drag launch springs and had to cut a couple of coils off to get the front end to 'sit down'. he said not much difference in feel. i have the eibach pro kit (.75-1" lower) and like it. it's up to you i guess.
 
The Mac and other arms are only solid replacements. They do nothing to help the car.
You mean like eliminate the flex in the stock control arms and the bushings?

That's exactly what an aftermarket control arm is supposed to do, and they DO help.
 
any boxed or solid arm will make a difference you can feel from the better stable arm design but the bushing type is what makes the difference in results! here is a little excerpt from MAXIMUM MOTORSPORTS webpage about lower arms:
When we tested other aftermarket control arms that had hard urethane bushings at each end, we found they increased the wheel rate by 400%. As little as a 10% change in wheel rate can noticeably affect the handling balance of the car. So why does the wheel rate increase? In a 4-link suspension design, the control arms do not simply pivot, tey also move sideways in an angular motion. If that angular motion is restricted because of a poor bushing design, the suspension will bind up. That binding increases wheel rate which in turn causes unpredictable performance – not to mention damage to the torque boxes. .
heres one about uppers:
Maximum Motorsports has found the Ford Racing Performance Parts rear upper control arms to be the best choice for your Mustang. These arms have rubber bushings which allow proper articulation of the Mustang's 4-link rear suspension. Part number M-5500-A comes with bushings at the chassis end which are approximately twice as stiff as the productions bushings.
thought this info from a munufacturer that actually tests their products & have proven results would help enlighten this topic!(not flaming any particular products or people)
 
you can weld the factory boxes up real well at all the seems but should add plates or battle boxes for extra strenghth.

FASTERDAMNIT, what are you selling for $120? you can get the FRPP uppers for $65 & they can be boxed just like the stockers w/o replacing the bushings!
 
I would put in lakewoods traction action bars and replace the upper control arm bushings with polyurathane(box them up while you have them off). If you want new springs for traction and don't want your car lowered get the eibach drag kit. If you want it lowered get a diffrent set.
 
i find it kind of funny that people say how mac and bbk lca's are crap. i personally would go with either of the two or boxing your own and changing the bushings. i prefer those with greasable poly bushings and so does a friend that has been building mustangs for 12 years. my question is, what did people do before mm and the mega bites were available? they used hotchkis, bbk and some people used ssm lca's. never heard any complaints about handling back then did ya?

dont take me wrong. not flaming anyone here.
 
your right, they do make a difference but now there are better arms out there! they didnt complain "back then" as you put it because "back then" there werent any alternatives! now there is evident proof that bind is still relative with urethane bushings. im not flaming these units at all, i recommend them. anything is an improvement over stock, but always remember theres always going to be better stuff, its inevitable! the aftermarket is so huge & technology is always getting better!
anyways, good luck & enjoy!
 
I was told the other day all post 90 FOX bodies came with Ford Racing Performance Parts Upper Control Arms part # M-5500-A


I was told by the FORD rep that is all you need for Uppers, that 'those' stock uppers are excellent, all you need is different Lowers??
 
mygt8a4re said:
FASTERDAMNIT, what are you selling for $120? you can get the FRPP uppers for $65 & they can be boxed just like the stockers w/o replacing the bushings! [/B]
I'm not selling anything. Read the article to find out what I'm talking about (hint- I did all 4 arms...)

JL
 
ahh, i see, the cost of making your own boxed arms with new bushings! sorry, i thought you were selling stock boxed uppers for that price:rolleyes: ............nice, i bet the same results would be had from those as the BBK or MAC arms!
 
As for uppers, save a few bucks and buy the '93-up Cobra UCA's from the dealer (F4ZZ-5500-CA). They are the same as the FRPP arms and only $20 each. They are stiffer than the OEM HD arms, but wether they actually differ from the FRPP arms, you probably would never notice. While you are at it, get the FRPP kit that contains the new axle-end bushings (I think it is M-4050-B). I also went with Bilsteins at all four corners, the FRPP 'C' springs and poly bushings in the LCA's and on the springs, and have an awesome ride! Much improved but not too harsh for the street. Just my $.02...
 
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