Has anyone considered or successfully completed boxing the upper and lower control arms on a front end rebuild as opposed to the outrageously expensive aftermarket systems like Global West and Total Control? With the purchase of my 05, I have had to tone down the restoration of my 68. I have resorted to a mostly stock suspension and will instead sink the $$$ into steering, brakes and wheels (thank goodness the 429 is already done, no tremmec though- Il'll have to stick with the toploader). I think boxed stock arms and poly bushings with the shelby 1 inch drop and good coils could be sweet. What are your thoughts.
redmedicine
front suspension mods
428 390 and 427 fit so I would think the 429 should be able to be stuffed in there... Check out the dimensions here: http://www.geocities.com/infieldg/v8enginesizes.html
I think its with headers/exhaust manifolds that make it a hard fit as the heads are really massive? As I recall the headers on a 429 for a 69 mustang are wicked looking one pipe loops around the steering components. I can only imagine its tighter in a 68 than the 69. Course I'm just merely curious. 
Yes, I will be shaving the shock towers to fit. The engine drops in just fine, but there is little room for headers. I could probably custom build headers and avoid cutting the towers, but I am most likely going with the Crites headers for ease of headache (they require shaving the towers).
I would like to box the arms for added rigidity and a more precise suspension geometry. I noticed when trying to remove the shaft from my uppers that the whole arm was flexing in the vice with each stroke of the wrench (the threads in the arm ended up being screwed anyway, new arms please!!!). This prompted me to consider boxing them.
I am not familliar with the negative wedge kit, I was under the impression it was similar to the 1 inch drop.
I would like to box the arms for added rigidity and a more precise suspension geometry. I noticed when trying to remove the shaft from my uppers that the whole arm was flexing in the vice with each stroke of the wrench (the threads in the arm ended up being screwed anyway, new arms please!!!). This prompted me to consider boxing them.
I am not familliar with the negative wedge kit, I was under the impression it was similar to the 1 inch drop.
Negative wedge kit does about the same as the 1" drop. What kind of driving do you have in mind for the fastback? If you plan hardcore race track driving, I would have something more than stock in there. But generic street driving stock is probably fine. Be sure to add some support to the remaining shock towers, and reweld the factory welds on them as well.
I don't plan to race it, however, I like spirited driving, especially when corners are involved. The hitch is that the 429 and 460 are all time winners of the "Fat Albert" award and therefor wreek havoc on the cars weight distribution. So my plans are to compensate for that by firming up the front and at least hanging on to some form of handling capability with that 800lb pig in the front. I was hoping someone has attempted boxing the control arms and could tell me if it is worth it or not.
Don't put in the 429 throw in a 351w (has wonderful torque).
Ok with that said I used to have a 67 390 gta fastback (with 4spd...) Suspension was all stock gt with the shelby relocate, kyb's and 16x7 enkies I ran 225/50/16 z rated tires and it handled great, drove smooth and was fun when I wasn't worried about going to the gas station every 3rd day. I also put in a 20gal gas tank from a 69. The weight ratio of your car will be a little worse but I doubt you'll notice it. You could relocate the battery to the trunk of the car.
The only thing that I know about boxing lower and upper control arms is yes it tightens the flex, but you also need to leave flex points so that the welds won't break (welds are brittle about flexing)
thats all I know
throw in a 351w (has wonderful torque). Ok with that said I used to have a 67 390 gta fastback (with 4spd...) Suspension was all stock gt with the shelby relocate, kyb's and 16x7 enkies I ran 225/50/16 z rated tires and it handled great, drove smooth and was fun when I wasn't worried about going to the gas station every 3rd day. I also put in a 20gal gas tank from a 69. The weight ratio of your car will be a little worse but I doubt you'll notice it. You could relocate the battery to the trunk of the car.
The only thing that I know about boxing lower and upper control arms is yes it tightens the flex, but you also need to leave flex points so that the welds won't break (welds are brittle about flexing)
thats all I know
Thakns for the info, Sazzlefrats, I had not considered the welded area. I would throw in a stroked 351, but I already have $8000 into the '9 (it was a virgin core complete I got for $50) I have tried to keep the front end light with fiberglass, aluminum (except heads, holy moola batman), and no ps or ac. It would seem a waste to put a 500hp 429 into my truck. It is good to know other bb's handle acceptably.
8k? whoa! 500hp? damn. I don't how you feel about it, but I'd put the power steering on. She'll be a beast to turn in a parking lot. I had my steering pump die on me once... I hated it. Power brakes.. don't leave home without. Lazy me.. yeap
My 67 was setup similiar, full shelby fiberglass, aluminum intake, tri-y headers, cast iron heads (cause aluminum was sooo overpriced) but I had PS, P disk brakes, some of my ac, but not the all the parts (hard to find stuff) And I would say it handled as well as any smallblock (without the fiberglass) would have.
My 67 was setup similiar, full shelby fiberglass, aluminum intake, tri-y headers, cast iron heads (cause aluminum was sooo overpriced) but I had PS, P disk brakes, some of my ac, but not the all the parts (hard to find stuff) And I would say it handled as well as any smallblock (without the fiberglass) would have.
On my 68 I did the following with good results:
1) Boxed the uppers and added a neg. wedge kit w/1.75" drop
2) Boxed the lowers and replaced the bushings with COM10 kevlar/teflon spherical bearings
3) Made my own bronze bushing spring perches
4) Installed TCP strut rods (traded a set of Granada brakes for them)
5) Installed Eibach progressive springs 380/520lbs
6) Installed an eccentric eliminator kit
7) Fabricated and welded in a Boss chassis brace from the frame to the shock tower
68Restoman
![Image]()
1) Boxed the uppers and added a neg. wedge kit w/1.75" drop
2) Boxed the lowers and replaced the bushings with COM10 kevlar/teflon spherical bearings
3) Made my own bronze bushing spring perches
4) Installed TCP strut rods (traded a set of Granada brakes for them)
5) Installed Eibach progressive springs 380/520lbs
6) Installed an eccentric eliminator kit
7) Fabricated and welded in a Boss chassis brace from the frame to the shock tower
68Restoman
68Restoman, How did you do the spherical bearings and where did you get them. Also, what is the chassis brace you mentioned. I presume that it is different than the shock tower reinforcement kits. What engine are you running and is it just a cruiser or do you compete with it, it seems like a well thought out setup.
Thanks for the input, good info!
Thanks for the input, good info!
I fabricated my lower arms similar to the Global West modified stock arms. I had some shells made by a machinist the same size as the stock bushings that contain a QA1 spherical bearing. The machinist supplied the bearings but you can get them from any stock car part supplier.
The chassis brace is the one they detail in the Boss 302 chassis modification book. It's one part of the shock tower brace kits and connects the frame to the shock tower from inside the fender well.
Right now I'm running a stock 5.0 EFI but I have a 96 Explorer engine and some other goodies yet to install so I'm looking at 300-325 horsepower or so next season. This car is setup for non-competitive weekend road course driving but I do drive it on the street regularly too...
68Restoman
![Image]()
![Image]()
The chassis brace is the one they detail in the Boss 302 chassis modification book. It's one part of the shock tower brace kits and connects the frame to the shock tower from inside the fender well.
Right now I'm running a stock 5.0 EFI but I have a 96 Explorer engine and some other goodies yet to install so I'm looking at 300-325 horsepower or so next season. This car is setup for non-competitive weekend road course driving but I do drive it on the street regularly too...
68Restoman
Wow sweet Ride!
Will the negative wedge kit work with the 520 lowering prings! I have a 68 with the 520 lowering springs flaming rivers quick ratio sterring boxs and 1' sway bar! I also have the 5 1/2 leaf lowering leaf springs in rear and coming soon 3/4 rear sway bar!
Will the wedge kit work or will it slame the car to the ground! Also where does the Bump steer kit mount, I have see then but never on a car!
Will the negative wedge kit work with the 520 lowering prings! I have a 68 with the 520 lowering springs flaming rivers quick ratio sterring boxs and 1' sway bar! I also have the 5 1/2 leaf lowering leaf springs in rear and coming soon 3/4 rear sway bar!
Will the wedge kit work or will it slame the car to the ground! Also where does the Bump steer kit mount, I have see then but never on a car!
The manufacturer recommends using stock height springs and that's what I used but they are actually a tad high and I'll be trimming them 1/4 coil or so to fit. I'd try your existing springs first but be prepared to get longer ones.
Note that if you do the wedge kit you'll probably not need a rear sway bar, especially with that heavy of a leaf pack.
A bumpsteer kit replaces the lower tie rod end and places the pivot point lower. I wouldn't buy anything without first determining if the bumpsteer is excessive and the only way to do that is to actually measure it with the springs removed.
68Restoman
Note that if you do the wedge kit you'll probably not need a rear sway bar, especially with that heavy of a leaf pack.
A bumpsteer kit replaces the lower tie rod end and places the pivot point lower. I wouldn't buy anything without first determining if the bumpsteer is excessive and the only way to do that is to actually measure it with the springs removed.
68Restoman
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