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Steeda Lightweight Mustang 87-93 Front Sway bar brackets 555-8112

2.6K views 17 replies 7 participants last post by  4eyefever  
#1 ·
Leaking PS pump killed front sway bar to body bushing. I am ordering a poly replacement. Noticed how wimpy the factory bracket is. I saw the Steeda 555-8112 bracket. I called Steeda they could only tell me its made for their larger sway bar. So I am guessing the sizing for the busing is wrong for factory sized poly bushing. Anyone have an experience with alternate front sway bar brackets or using this Steeda bracket and know for sure a stock bar sized bushing will not work? Trying to get the 88 LX 5.0 worked on this holiday season so we start using it for CAMT in 2024.
 
#2 ·
You could have posted a link, but i don't see any bushings listed, only the brackets?

 
#4 ·
#5 ·
I've been looking into this as part of a video I'm making about the Steeda sway bar brackets. I haven't been able to 100% confirm anything because my 1993 LX is still in the process of being built, but I have some notes from my experiments that might help...

I put a poly 1 3/8" bushing that came with my Steeda sway bar into a Steeda sway bar bracket (off of the car), then compared the fitment to 15/16" and 1 5/16" Prothane poly bushings in the Steeda bracket (still off of the car). The Prothane bushings fit into the Steeda bracket. The Steeda bushings were a slightly tighter fit. There was no movement with the Prothane bushings, they just slid in easier. I didn't mount them to the car or onto an OEM sway bar, I was just checking to see if poly bushings for factory Fox sway bars would fit into the Steeda bracket.

The Steeda sway bar has less of a bend where the bushings mount. That could make it difficult for everything to fit together properly. You can see the issue I had with an old 1 3/8" sway bar (with a bend similar to an OEM sway bar) and Steeda Delrin sway bar bushings at the 3:52 mark of this video:


Looking at the OEM sway bar, you might have a similar issue with custom Delrin bushings. I'm going to do more testing in the next couple of months to prove whether or not the Steeda brackets will work with OEM sway bars.
 
#6 ·
You would think the 4 hard mounting points need to be the same as those points cannot change as they to be the same so that aftermarket parts can mount to the cars. I was hoping the Steeda mount would use the "standard" sizing for the sway bar mount and it appears it is. But your right and it may or may not have the stock bar in the correct location. I am at the point not trying upgrade parts ( like bigger front sway bar ) as the car has not been put together and run yet to see how it handles. I was planning to run the stock 33 front sway bar and the 24 mm rear bar off a later SN95 GT to help dial out the factory understeer. This is not an all out max prep CAMT car as its primary a daily driver.

I decided to buy the Steeda mount and see if it works. Otherwise I found as a better tha factory option for a stock bar - WMS Sway Bar mount, front, billet with poly bushings, 1979-93 Mustang.

Warhouse - I love your videos and at times rewatch them to build up motivation to get the Fox completed so we can stop using the GT350 for autox.

I've been looking into this as part of a video I'm making about the Steeda sway bar brackets. I haven't been able to 100% confirm anything because my 1993 LX is still in the process of being built, but I have some notes from my experiments that might help...

I put a poly 1 3/8" bushing that came with my Steeda sway bar into a Steeda sway bar bracket (off of the car), then compared the fitment to 15/16" and 1 5/16" Prothane poly bushings in the Steeda bracket (still off of the car). The Prothane bushings fit into the Steeda bracket. The Steeda bushings were a slightly tighter fit. There was no movement with the Prothane bushings, they just slid in easier. I didn't mount them to the car or onto an OEM sway bar, I was just checking to see if poly bushings for factory Fox sway bars would fit into the Steeda bracket.

The Steeda sway bar has less of a bend where the bushings mount. That could make it difficult for everything to fit together properly. You can see the issue I had with an old 1 3/8" sway bar (with a bend similar to an OEM sway bar) and Steeda Delrin sway bar bushings at the 3:52 mark of this video:


Looking at the OEM sway bar, you might have a similar issue with custom Delrin bushings. I'm going to do more testing in the next couple of months to prove whether or not the Steeda brackets will work with OEM sway bars.
 
#7 ·
You would think the 4 hard mounting points need to be the same as those points cannot change as they to be the same so that aftermarket parts can mount to the cars. I was hoping the Steeda mount would use the "standard" sizing for the sway bar mount and it appears it is. But your right and it may or may not have the stock bar in the correct location. I am at the point not trying upgrade parts ( like bigger front sway bar ) as the car has not been put together and run yet to see how it handles. I was planning to run the stock 33 front sway bar and the 24 mm rear bar off a later SN95 GT to help dial out the factory understeer. This is not an all out max prep CAMT car as its primary a daily driver.

I decided to buy the Steeda mount and see if it works. Otherwise I found as a better tha factory option for a stock bar - WMS Sway Bar mount, front, billet with poly bushings, 1979-93 Mustang.

Warhouse - I love your videos and at times rewatch them to build up motivation to get the Fox completed so we can stop using the GT350 for autox.
I think the issue is going to be with how the Steeda brackets with poly bushings clamp to the OEM sway bars. As far as I can tell, they attach to the sway bar in the same place. The curve of the OEM sway bar isn't an issue with OEM rubber bushings because they are pliable. Poly bushings worked with my old (curved) sway bar and the Steeda brackets (but they looked pretty bad when they came out); the Delrin bushings absolutely would not work with the curved sway bar. When I test the Steeda brackets with poly bushings and an OEM sway bar, I'll be looking at how well the bushings fit around the sway bar compared to my other cars.

You made the right choice about waiting to decide on a front sway bar. That is always the last suspension mod I make.

Thanks for the link to the WMS sway bar mount. I suspect finding the right front sway bar for my 2.3L project is going to be an adventure. It's great to have another option for stronger sway bar brackets.

Thanks for checking out my videos! I'm glad they're helpful and motivational.
 
#10 ·
So I finally received an e-mail reply from Steeda on could their bracket be used with a stock size sway bar -

"Good morning,

These were designed to work with the Steeda front sway bar. If you find a bushing that fits the bracket, with the proper diameter for the factory sway bar, then in theory, it should work."

I tried and the Prothane body mount bushing fit very well. Depending possible rain, I will install this weekend and report back.
 
#11 ·
Hotchkis makes the billet aluminum sway bar bushing mounts, too - not specifically for the Mustang, they're just generic bushing brackets. That's another possible option.

Years ago, before they did the billet aluminum ones, they used to use beefed up steel brackets with their big sway bars. That's what I have on the front of my 1st gen CTS-V:
Image


You can see it's just a typical bent strap type steel bushing bracket, but they added gussets to strengthen it. Presumably, if you know how to weld, you could do something similar, and spend a heckuva lot less than the $100 or more for the snazzy billet aluminum ones. I've had those Hotchkis ones on my CTS-V for over a dozen years now with no issues.
 
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#12 ·
RideTech makes a nice set of mounts with their Delrin lined bushing set.

"This is a simple way to eliminate rotational friction in your sway bar. Rubber or Polyurethane mounts can induce as much as 200 lbs of uncontrolled, unpredictable and unwanted spring rate spike into your suspension. These bushings make an immediate and significant seat of the pants improvement in ride quality and handling performance! The Delrin sway bar bushing kit includes a pair of the steel bushing housings, poly bushings and Delrin sleeve inserts."

Image
 
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#13 ·
RideTech makes a nice set of mounts with their Delrin lined bushing set.

"This is a simple way to eliminate rotational friction in your sway bar. Rubber or Polyurethane mounts can induce as much as 200 lbs of uncontrolled, unpredictable and unwanted spring rate spike into your suspension. These bushings make an immediate and significant seat of the pants improvement in ride quality and handling performance! The Delrin sway bar bushing kit includes a pair of the steel bushing housings, poly bushings and Delrin sleeve inserts."
I don't see those on their website when I look at the list of '79-93 parts - do you have a part number maybe? When I go to the "Components / Tools / Accessories" page, the picture you posted it what they show for "Sway Bar Components", but when you click the link the only thing listed on that page is some billet aluminum bushing brackets.
 
#15 · (Edited)
Did anyone figure out how to make a delrin bushing fit a fox body front swat bar? Per my measurement, the stock sway bracket is 3" center to center. The Ridetech setup calls for a minimum 3.125" center to center. Im not sure if the MM relocation kit affects this? it just moves the sway bar fore and aft?
 
#16 ·
I was under the car today, it helped refresh my memory. With the MM k-member and standard arms the wheels moved forward 3/4'' making the relocation kit necessary. In order to fit the Ridetech mounts I had to fab new nutplates with the wider spacing(ditched the ones that came in the kit) and drilled new holes in the relocation mount to accept the new nutplate holespacing, looks like the spacing is "about" 3.5" .With the swaybar moved down with the relocation kit in place I needed to shorten the end links 3/4". Seems like a lot of work, with the long winters I must have really wanted something to do.

I can't say for absolute certainty, but If looking to install the relocation kit without actually moving the location of the swaybar, I think reversing the MM mount/ drilling new holes will get you where you need to be.
 
#17 ·
Thank you. How did you fabricate the nut plate? Just cut a piece of strap and tap accordingly? I have the MM relocation kit. Pretty easy to drill the rectangular tube to accomodate a 3.5 inch spacing.
 
#18 ·
I welded nuts to the plate keeping the same height as the originals so it will fit inside the rectangular tube. Using low profile nuts or machining down regular height nuts.

Using the thickest plate possible and just tapping would be way easier.
 
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