Im looking for a few quick little things to do to my 96gt before the trip to the track this weekend dose anyone know if it would be worth the effort to put a lower temp stat in. I will assume I have a.......170? so lets say I throw in a 160, worth a pony or 2?
themostat = HP ?????????????
Race251
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Im looking for a few quick little things to do to my 96gt before the trip to the track this weekend dose anyone know if it would be worth the effort to put a lower temp stat in. I will assume I have a.......170? so lets say I throw in a 160, worth a pony or 2?
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what about blown cars?
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Cooler makes more HP... FLAT OUT!!
A 160 Thermostat... runs in a best case scenario at about 172.. which is fine...
Stock in your car is probably 192
Stock in new Cobra's is 180
You can get a 180 from Napa....
You can get a 160 from Upr products.
Get the cooler thermostat!
Dave
A 160 Thermostat... runs in a best case scenario at about 172.. which is fine...
Stock in your car is probably 192
Stock in new Cobra's is 180
You can get a 180 from Napa....
You can get a 160 from Upr products.
Get the cooler thermostat!
Dave
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An internal combustion engine needs heat, approximately 180 degrees for an automotive engine for best efficiency. Go too cold on the thermostat and you may suffer long-term wear issues (fuel in the cylinder bore washing which would F -up the crosshatch and hence; lower compression over time.) Lowest I would go if you felt like you needed to do it would be a 180. I doubt you would see any gain at all anyways, if your car is basically a stock engine. Full-tilt boogie cars that are dragstrip oriented would be a different story (maybe. You know, test what works, scrap the rest.)
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This isn't about Fuel Economy... or Fuel Efficiency... This is about making HORSEPOWER!!!
I could CARE LESS that my car runs cleaner at 210 Degrees!!
too cold... would be a car that actually ran at 160 degrees... or maybe 150... the best case scenario is realistically the car is going to run at about 170 degrees... crusing down the highway 5th gear...
But once you accelerate... or are racing someone... your temps go up... the benefit of the lower thermostat... is when you start racing at 160 degrees... you reach 180 or so... When you start racing at 180 degrees or 190 for that matter... you are reaching over 200 & 210 degrees at the motor... this raises the temperature of air intake, and more...
Sorry... but for making HP... you want a cool engine.
I can show you hundreds of Dyno Runs... where Temperature is worth a minimum of 10HP! Just dyno your car dead cold (Maybe 150 degrees)... and then dyno it right off the Freeway.. say 210...
You will see a big differance.
Peacem
Dave's too cold '01 Stock Cobra 13.30@105+
(Borla & K&N)
I could CARE LESS that my car runs cleaner at 210 Degrees!!
too cold... would be a car that actually ran at 160 degrees... or maybe 150... the best case scenario is realistically the car is going to run at about 170 degrees... crusing down the highway 5th gear...
But once you accelerate... or are racing someone... your temps go up... the benefit of the lower thermostat... is when you start racing at 160 degrees... you reach 180 or so... When you start racing at 180 degrees or 190 for that matter... you are reaching over 200 & 210 degrees at the motor... this raises the temperature of air intake, and more...
Sorry... but for making HP... you want a cool engine.
I can show you hundreds of Dyno Runs... where Temperature is worth a minimum of 10HP! Just dyno your car dead cold (Maybe 150 degrees)... and then dyno it right off the Freeway.. say 210...
You will see a big differance.
Peacem
Dave's too cold '01 Stock Cobra 13.30@105+
(Borla & K&N)
How is the fuel and timing maps set up in our modular cars? Going to a too much lower thermostat can sometimes hurt because the car will still be in warm-up mode and running rich with less timing. At least this was the case in some other cars I have owned.
GrussR - I think you are onto something.
I had my car dyno tested about two months ago. Peak results were: 237 rwhp./ 282 rwtq.
I was a little disappointed considering my trap speeds. I had a best of 101.8 mph. I thought my car would have been putting out somewhere between 240-245 rwhp. The tq. #'s are good.
I know I don't have major mods., but again, my trap speed is pretty good for only 237 rwhp. Seems fishy.
Only thing I could think of was that my car was not running at normal operating temp. when the dyno was ran. It was sitting for three hours outside (50 degrees) before they put it on the dyno. First pull the a/f ration was more rich than the second pull. I believe this was because the after the first pull, the car was a little more warmed up. My second pull produced a less rich a/f ratio, and better power numbers.
I am just wondering if results could have been better if they had waited for the car to properly warm up to normal operating temp. This may have produced a leaner a/f ration which could have produced more power. Don't most cars run rich until properly warmed up and then the computer adjusts the a/f ratio to leaner when the engine is warm?
The guys at the dyno shop thought my a/f ratio was a little rich at the lower rpms compared to other 99+ GT's.
Anyone think there is any truth to this?
I had my car dyno tested about two months ago. Peak results were: 237 rwhp./ 282 rwtq.
I was a little disappointed considering my trap speeds. I had a best of 101.8 mph. I thought my car would have been putting out somewhere between 240-245 rwhp. The tq. #'s are good.
I know I don't have major mods., but again, my trap speed is pretty good for only 237 rwhp. Seems fishy.
Only thing I could think of was that my car was not running at normal operating temp. when the dyno was ran. It was sitting for three hours outside (50 degrees) before they put it on the dyno. First pull the a/f ration was more rich than the second pull. I believe this was because the after the first pull, the car was a little more warmed up. My second pull produced a less rich a/f ratio, and better power numbers.
I am just wondering if results could have been better if they had waited for the car to properly warm up to normal operating temp. This may have produced a leaner a/f ration which could have produced more power. Don't most cars run rich until properly warmed up and then the computer adjusts the a/f ratio to leaner when the engine is warm?
The guys at the dyno shop thought my a/f ratio was a little rich at the lower rpms compared to other 99+ GT's.
Anyone think there is any truth to this?
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The problem with that is it is a fine line between being warm enough to get lean.. and not so warm that your motor is heat soked...
The car's are in Closed loop by 170 degrees... so a 160 which operates closer to 174 is fine...
Also... we are talking HP... here... if you are talking HP... than you are driving your car HARD... which increases TEMPERATURE... that is why you start cooler!
Yes... if you are taking your car to & from work... and nothing else.. then leave the stock thermo in!
If you are racing the car... I would recommend the cooler thermostat... But I also live in AZ... where we AVERAGE about 100 degrees! So... If you are in colder climate areas.. maybe the 180 would be better for you.
Peace,
The car's are in Closed loop by 170 degrees... so a 160 which operates closer to 174 is fine...
Also... we are talking HP... here... if you are talking HP... than you are driving your car HARD... which increases TEMPERATURE... that is why you start cooler!
Yes... if you are taking your car to & from work... and nothing else.. then leave the stock thermo in!
If you are racing the car... I would recommend the cooler thermostat... But I also live in AZ... where we AVERAGE about 100 degrees! So... If you are in colder climate areas.. maybe the 180 would be better for you.
Peace,
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My car takes some hard driving before it really opens up. I can feel the difference in the seat of my pants. Only after several minutes of spirited driving in the 3,000 to 6,500 RPM range does it really open and up and pull like a beast. At this point, when the engine really comes alive, it stays that way as long as I keep the revs up and the throttle open.'00Stang said:
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i have the UPR 160 in my cobra and so far so good.. keep in mind i also have a chip w/ different calibrations for the lower motor temp...this is the only way i would run a power adder car.
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All I know, is that when my '00 was otherwise stock, as I hot-lapped the car, my MPH went up. If it sat for a while, my MPH wasn't as high. I ran about the same ET, but the MPH was more when the motor was hot. I got 101.14 MPH out of the car, with a K&N, Eibach Pro-Kit springs, Steeda Tri-Ax shifter, and no mufflers, with pipe welded in their place being the only mods. Not bad...
I'd wonder what a dyno would show right off the highway, as compared to a cold pull....... ??
I'd wonder what a dyno would show right off the highway, as compared to a cold pull....... ??
Well, I think I may be able to check some things out a week from this Friday. I am going to have a Bassani X pipe with cats installed tomorrow, drive my car for a week, and then get dynoed again. I really hope to see around 250 at the wheels , but realistically, I'll probably see less than that. At least this time since I won't have my stock cat pipe any more. I just can't see how that wouldn't free up some ponies.
I let you know my results (good or bad) after the Bassani install and redyno. Good thing is that I will be going to the same dyno I went to in the first place so the only difference or variable will be weather.
I also plan on getting on the dyno when my car is warmed up all the way this time. If I have to drive around the block a few times first, that's what I'll do.
Think of it this way, if I see incredible gains from the Bassani (like 12 - 15 rwhp) we will know that I probably did not produce my best dyno numbers the first time around. If I see only moderate gains from the Bassani (like 8 - 10 rwhp) we will know I probably dynoed at my best numbers first time around. I guess what I am trying to say is that I expect the Bassani to add 8 - 10 rwhp and very little, if any additional rwtq. to my car.
I let you know my results (good or bad) after the Bassani install and redyno. Good thing is that I will be going to the same dyno I went to in the first place so the only difference or variable will be weather.
I also plan on getting on the dyno when my car is warmed up all the way this time. If I have to drive around the block a few times first, that's what I'll do.
Think of it this way, if I see incredible gains from the Bassani (like 12 - 15 rwhp) we will know that I probably did not produce my best dyno numbers the first time around. If I see only moderate gains from the Bassani (like 8 - 10 rwhp) we will know I probably dynoed at my best numbers first time around. I guess what I am trying to say is that I expect the Bassani to add 8 - 10 rwhp and very little, if any additional rwtq. to my car.
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