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Discussion Starter #1
The motor actuallly ran okay before I tore it down, but since I was going to swap the motor, I thought I should at least give it an overhaul. Well, today I pulled the heads while the motor was on the engine stand, and I noticed piston #8 looked like the business end of a meat hammer! I don't know what the hell got into the engine, but it put a hurt on that piston. It looks the an overbore and new slugs is my only option for this motor.

here's the problem. I have never rebuilt an engine before, and I don't know if I could trust myself to do a professional job. So, I guess I could have a shop build it for me, but it would definately cost some cash, and I don't know if I can trust my local machine shop. My second option would be to buy another used motor with lower mileage, and just install it. Not as "new" as a fresh motor would be, but at least I wouldn't have to rely on anyone else. My third option would be to buy a remanufactured engine or a crate motor, or at least the short block. Then I could do the build-up myself. I am confident on building up on a short block, I'm just a little insecure on the actual rotating assembly.

Which option should I try? A 347 stroker sounds pretty cool, but I'm not too sure I want to put a boat-load of cash into this. I just want a solid and reliable motor that I can run for 100,000 miles and not worry about. Is that too much to ask for? I won't be drag racing my car, it's just going to be a real nice driver.
Any suggestions? I have about $1500-$2000 budgeted. Time is not a REAL big issue, but I would like to have the whole thing done within a couple months.

Is the Ford Motorsport short block any good?

Is there any certain remanufacturing company to avoid?

Thanks

Joe
 

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If you want to gey 100,000 miles out of it, I would highly recommend staying away from the 347 and going 306 (a 302 with a .030 overbore).

My suggestion, to stay within your budget and goals: Go to Autozone or Pep-Boys and buy a stock replacement short block. They cost right around $800.00 w/exchange of your old one. They usually come with a warranty also. The rest of your $$$ can be used for your short block build up.
 

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a stroker is out of your budget. i would also pass on a used engine as it will find you in the same boat later. the motorsport longblocks are also out of your range. you either need a motorsport shortblock or for another 300 you can have a 306 shortblock with forged pistons. the typical price is around 1500 and by the time you have shipping, gaskets,bolts, misc. items it will be around the 2k mark. if you think you can handle a basic rebuild i would just have your old parts machined and just buy new pistons. you will save at least 500 you can put towards an intake or gt-40 heads if you don't have heads already
 

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If you take your time and follow some directions you could easily rebuild your own engine. A rebuild kit can be had for four to five hundred plus $200 for a bore since you would probably want to take advantage and go .030 over.
 

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You WANT a 100K+ mile engine right? Don't get a Pep Boys or Autozone engine. You get what you pay for.

I rebuilt my t-bird engine. My t-bird engine now has 160K+ miles on the rebuild. It still runs great, still has very low emissions, and about the same gas mileage as when it was just rebuilt. Plus, I have an Erson cam in an SD setup!

I rebuilt my Cutlass engine over 15 years ago. I haven't driven my Cutlass much in over 5 years. Now, the Cutlass just sits and gets started every few weeks.

I've rebuilt at least 5 engines. All ran fine. I've helped on at least 3 others. My parents neighbor is a retired mechanic. It's been a Looonnng time since he did an engine rebuild. So, he asked me to help him. It was a small block Chevy.


*I* know what it takes to do a very good rebuild. There are also those few people that how to do a World Class rebuild (racing engines). (I'm not one of those elite people) Blueprinting an engine may be great if you race, but IMHO, it's a waste of time for street engine.

In your case, get the Ford Motorsport short block. One of the IMPORTANT things for a Great rebuild is a Great machine shop.

You **MUST** get a Ford small block rebuild book. Make sure you UNDERSTAND it first!!! BTW: Keep the engine and work area CLEAN!

Also, I'd say over 50% of people that works on cars (/engines) either don't have a clue how to properly do a job, or they don't care. So, take ANYTHING someone tells you with a grain of salt. If they are a teenager, then try not to laugh to hard at some suggestions.

If you have any Very Specific questions, then ask them in the forums. If you don't get a good answer, then send me a PM.

You'll get BS like you MUST degree a cam. Oh yea, go ask a dealer mechanics if he ever degreed a cam. Maybe, if they were on crack.

Over the years, I've read about a lot of mistakes that people have made in doing a rebuild. It makes me thankful that I was lucky to be able to learn from professional mechanics and friends that did rebuilds.
 

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Have ago at doing it youself! Good way to learn.Trouble is selling it latter,it's like selling a part of yourself...
 

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Please don't get the motor from Auto zone or Pep boys, they are not in very good quality, I have been through it before, I have guys complaining about poor performance on these motors.
You get what you pay for.


By the way, what do you mean on number 8 piston looks like the business end of meat hammer? Are you sure it is not carbon deposit? Or factory casting flawed? I have work for Ford dealer for a long time, I have seen them couple of times, they do run good after that, as long the cylinder wall is not damages or severly worn.

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
what does it look like?

It look like what would happen it you took a piston and beat the top of it on rough cement for a couple of hours. In the area not exposed to the valves (the area with no room once the pistion is at TDC) is where the most damage is. It looks like the damage got down to the top ring land, and yes, it seemed to make a nice wear pattern on the cylinder wall. Something got in the combustion chamber that shouldn't have.
 

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IF you have the time and the tools, I would go and make it a nice do-it-yourself project. Get yourself a decent book and a Ford shop manual. I used the shop manual just for clearences and what have you and everything went pretty good. Just take your time, pay attention, and you'll do fine rebuilding that bottom end.
 

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have you been burning spark plugs up....electrode gone ?? if so that's it.
you can get a cast crank,i beam rod,srp,brgs,rings 331 kit for @ 1300.00. i went with all forged , but 1300 for that setup would work fine with all but big boost or spray. figure what ? 4-600 on machine work. the machine shop should give you a good price for short blocking since you're already spending $$ there
 

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if you go the raman route ive heard good things about jaspers. I havent heard any bad though...

anyone have bad experiances with jasper motors? I might throw one in mine...
 

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check centralcoastmustang.com

they sell shortblocks and longblocks....

I believe they have a complete longblock for 1900 bucks....


also wellsracing has motors for sale as well...

both are reasonably priced, and they gurantee the motors for at least a year...

a link to wells racing is on the main corral.net page

and the other I believe is www.centralcoastmustang.com

good luck looking...

this is what i'm going to do if I don't decide to build myself... might just buy one and have it done with

Jason
 

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Re: what does it look like?

joefriday said:
It look like what would happen it you took a piston and beat the top of it on rough cement for a couple of hours. In the area not exposed to the valves (the area with no room once the pistion is at TDC) is where the most damage is. It looks like the damage got down to the top ring land, and yes, it seemed to make a nice wear pattern on the cylinder wall. Something got in the combustion chamber that shouldn't have.

Ok Thanks for clearing it up for me.

I have seen pitted mark on top of piston, I though it is what you talking about...
 
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