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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
worked E7 folks... lets talk...

what have you had done to these little iron heads?
what is the supporting cast in the quest for performance? (intakes, carb/efi, cam, exhaust, gears, shift points, race weight etc., ect. ...?)
what are your dyno numbers?
what times have you turned?

I'd like to see :
mill #'s.
compression.
valve work.
cam/degree rockers...
bla bla bla...

Who is running hard with E7's

PLEASE DO NOT TURN THIS INTO A POWERHEADS SUCK THREAD!

I'm going worked stocker combo soon and am trying to decide on cam... and other tid-bits
 

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Hey ,cleanlx,are you ready to port your heads ? I'm just getting out of ported stockers this year,ran into a deal too good to pass up on a set of Edelbrock 60379 heads.Since I was going to machine my heads for bigger valves and notch my pistons to run a aftermarket cam ,I looked at the cost of buying valves and the machine work,plus what I figure I can get for my heads and it was only a couple hundred bucks more to buy the aluminum ones,and as an added bonus ,I get to take 50 lbs off the nose of the car this year.
As far as work to my heads ,they have been fully ported ,including a bowl job,milled .030",treated to a good 3 angle valve job and topped off with the stock stamped rockers.The cam is factory stock,and never been messed with.The intake was an out of the box cobra,with a FMS 65 mm TB.The fuel system is a 190 lph in tank,24 lb/hr injectors and an AFPR ,set at 39 psi.
I launch at 4500,shift at 5200(with my right foot pegged ,like you're supposed to) usually to 12.6-12.7 @ 104-105 mph.
Exhaust is a set of mac 1 5/8 longtubes with cat h pipe(all emssions equip is intact and operating) and an edelbrock rpm 2 1/2 " cat back with full tailpipes.
Don't have any dyno numbers but the car weighs 3190 race weight and has trapped at 105.64.
I may have some pictures of the bowls and runners on my e7s in a week or so,if you like I will email them to you ,just pm me with your email addy.
Scott
 

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I have ported E7's and have went a best of 13.3 at 104. First time at track shifting only at 5200 on aftermarket tach. Can probably go a little quicker shifting higher. I have 1.90 INT and 1.60EXH. Upgraded springs as well.
Later
 

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Hi, I know this is a little off topic. But I'm currently dissassembling my heads to begin porting them (E7's), and just wondering: What is involved with putting larger valves in the stock heads?

Do you have to machine the guides, or valve seats, or do they just fit in?

Sorry to be off topic.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
not off topic at all...

nojuice,
I have a set all done up... well, just getting finished a port match and having my lower milled to fit the new, lower heads. you info was most helpful.
I've been told I should budget for 24's in the near future...

I'm just curious as to what everyone is doing with induction and exhaust, and any little tips before it goes together.

Also, very curious to see what cam/valve train everyone is using.

Mouse,
you got the name right, but I have no idea what he was running. I know plentyof folks are deep into the 12's, and some are in the 11's with E7's. Ya turkey!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it's in joust... not at all a bad thing... just, joker like or whatever...
not meant to be derogitory(sp?)...
 

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kind of comparible, c6oe 289 heads, light resurface, ported, 1.94, 1.6, performer intake, E303 cam, 70mm tb, sd, 3.73's, 5spd at the time, 19's, 1 5/8 lt's, [email protected] carrying the wheels, high 1.6's, 3460 race weight(heavy)

hoping to run low low 12's w/rpm intake, 1 3/4lts and bigger cam yet to be determined

ran 13.0's on 225/60/16 plain janes, 2.0 60', w/c4 runs [email protected] on radials, 1.9 60's though
 

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http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/e7.html

I put that together as a general guide...it might help some of you guys out. The heads in the article are mostly just cleaned up, and prepped to improve flow instead of produce huge numbers. They'll work great for a decent street/strip setup.

It would be a good idea to mill the heads, either get a nice clean up cut of .01-.015" or go .03" to bump that compression ratio up a bit. Have the resized for gt40 or chevy sized valves, toss in some new springs, locks, retainers and seals....you'll be set
 

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Very lightly ported E7TE's (out of 1987 351W..60cc chambers) milled 0.010", 1.94x1.6 vlv's installed, bowls cleaned, short side radius' smoothed, intake cleaned and opened to just under 1250, exhaust had bump removed and opened up a little, vlv guides untouched. Went on a 306, gt40 intake, 1/2" spacer, 67 EGR, 65 TB, 75 MAF, 25 lb inj, 9.7:1, B303..made 270rwhp & 300rwtq. Remembering best ET w/street radials 13.8 @ 104 w/2.3 60', traction down low was non existent.
 

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Can somebody please tell me what the procedure is for installing larger valves in e7 heads? Do they have to be machined, do they just fit in?

What would be a good intake and exhaust valve for a ported head, with regular bolt on mods.
 

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Can somebody please tell me what the procedure is for installing larger valves in e7 heads? Do they have to be machined, do they just fit in?
Think about it, you have a 1.78" diameter hole and so if you want to put a 1.9" valve in that of course it's going have to be machined. Installing larger valves means you need open the bowl to same size of the vlv by machining it, then you need to machine new angles to match the vlv so it seals. You don't need to install larger vlv's on stock heads spend about $350 and get a five angle vlv job then reuse stock vlv's I bet gains will be the same. If determined to go with larger vlv's I would go with either 1.84x1.54, these are cheap and easily found.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm doing 1.9 and 1.6 with a 5 angle job.
And yes, the heads have to be machined for larger valves.
I'm hope'n for 12.5's or a little better with my setup...
Time will tell.
 

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The E7's can be made to make decent power but the porting is critical. I've done several sets retaining the stock valves but with better springs and extensive porting, mostly on chambers, both bowls and the exhaust side. If u have a hookup with a machine shop and can get the work and materials cheap then by all means have the bigger valves, valve job, a slight mill to the deck surface and whatever else u want done. The bigger valves and required valve job will enhance power but the high cost of the hardware and the machine work involved usually keeps it from being cost effective. My preference is to start with low mileage stock heads, port them to the needs of the engine, then reassemble with a set of take off valve springs from someones aluminum heads. That way the only cost involved is the time spent on porting and the valvesprings which are usually $75 or less. The stock valves and seats certainly arent the highest flowin pieces to ever hit a small block Ford head but they will take u surprisingly far on a well ported head, usually trapping at 108-109 mph if everything else is in place and functioning well. The PowerHeads are a good value if you dont have the time/expertise to do your own porting. The stock lower intake is a hard piece to make flow efficiently even when ported, so if the stock look is what youre after I'd use the Holley stock style lower intake with an Extrude Hone stock upper. Its more expensive but it will be a power maker right to 6000 rpm. Id use a cam/rocker combo that put total valve lift around .500 as any more is not really doin alot and youre wasting power compressing the valve springs further and duration that complements your intended power band. Full length headers are also useful with ported E7's.
 

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I have a good set of E7's sitting in my barn right now, but little cash to fool with. I was thinking of trying my hand at porting them out, getting a valve job done and milling them as much as I can. I will be putting them back on with a E303 cam, 1.6 rr's and a trick flow intake. Anyone have any ideas how much I can mill them without having to mill the lower? I was planning to have the compression high enough to run well with 93 octane.
 

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Mouse said:
TURBOX2, or '2X, Dan Simmons anyway, ran something like 5 seconds and 300mph on a set of ported E7s. Or was it 10 something and 140?
LOL, I wish it had been 140!! :D


My heads were heavily ported, but you can get very respectable flow numbers with just basic porting (mine were worked harder on the exhaust). I did a set years ago for a friends car and with the worked E7s, B303, and a Cobra intake with the lower ported went 12.20 @ 110. There are ways to make the stock intake flow pretty well also, with a little rpm I think you could run well into the 11s with a motor that looks stock (would have to be cam'ed correctly though). Thats with an upper modified to work like a box (looks stock ;) ), you'd need to be spinning 6500+ though. You could still run well into the 12s with more regular porting on the intake. As far as stock heads bigger valves most definately pick up flow, but you're looking at an extra $250-300 for the valves and machining.
 
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