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I'm new to RWD cars, so please excuse me if this is a dumb question. What is the purpose of having an aluminum driveshaft?
 

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On these cars, the rotating mass difference is effectively canceled out by the increased diameter. The beauty of them is they change the driveline critical speed (vibration range) so they help reduce the vibes many people get when they go to aftermarket gears. Do a search here on "critical speed" for some good posts and links.
 

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I got a Ford Racing D shaft

Not much of a difference at all.
Not worth the retail price of $150.00!!!!

I got mine for $60-so I didn't get riped on that bad.

Save your money for something else in my opinion.
 

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Re: I got a Ford Racing D shaft

JON RIO said:
Not much of a difference at all.
Not worth the retail price of $150.00!!!!

I got mine for $60-so I didn't get riped on that bad.

Save your money for something else in my opinion.
They make a world of difference to gear-related vibration issues. If you didn't have any of those then...well...what did you expect?If you bought it expecting a performance gain, well...P.T. Barnum said something once.
 

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Well excuse me............

50 proof didn't ask a direct question-So I gave my experiance with it-which is better that notting-right?

Also, in adds for this product....They almost always claim to improve engine performance to some degree.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
right now it's a stock 5.0. It's an 86 with 176,000 miles and i'm going through the car and fixing everything that needs to be fixed. Next will be the clutch and u-joints, and I figured while the driveshaft is out, then I could replace, since I was told that aluminum driveshafts come with the u-joints. But if i'm not going to benefit from it much, then I wont get one. At some point I plan on getting rear gears, 3.73's, so I'm undecided about whether to get one or not, but i'm leaning more towards not.
 

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It's a lot easier and more economically sound to just slap the aluminum shaft in there then it is to deal with removing, buying, and installing ujoints for a driveshaft you're going to end up getting rid of when you get gears...and balancing your steel driveshaft will not solve the gear-related vibrations. So IMHO put the aluminum driveshaft on the list of sooner rather than later if you plan on getting rear gears anyway.
 

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It's worth it if yo've got money to spare. I had one, and it's definetly a little bit different than a stock one. I had stock gears, and a newly balanced stock driveshaft. I put in an alum ds, and it did feel just a tiny, tiny bit better. Not worht the money though.

I have 3:73 gears now with stock driveshaft, it's smmoth as butter since installing a new trans. If money is all a concern, I'd take the driveshaft to a trans shop and have them balance it, replace u-joints. Call first to see how much it costs.
 

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Re: Well excuse me............

JON RIO said:
50 proof didn't ask a direct question-So I gave my experiance with it-which is better that notting-right?

Also, in adds for this product....They almost always claim to improve engine performance to some degree.
And they all claim 15 hp for a throttle body too, when the gain on a stock engine is precisely nothing.
 

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Either way you need to buy a driveshaft or get yours fixed... i would just buy it. It makes the car 10mph faster because it lightens it up!!!! jk

SVT
 

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I just got one for my stang....I know it's less rotating mass but also I have a slight vibration issue that I can't tell if it's tranny or DS. But I just got a $2500 loan in which I got a 2.95 gearset and rebuild kit as well as the DS and shocks an struts all around. I'm pretty sure I'll notice a difference going from completely stock to....well, NOT!
 

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I tell you what i recently got 4.10's and with them came a wicked driveline vibration. Last week the aluminum D.S. went on and man what a world of a difference. Plus it does feel a slight bit snappier when you get on it. Well worth the 150.00 in my case. But IMO if your gonna get gears anyway might as well spring for it now.
 

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When I had my 3.73's installed, the car vibrated at about 68mph. It continued up to about 100. I bought the Alum-driveshaft & all vibration went away. It was worth the 160 I payed for it. Get one in my op.
 

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I replaced the ujoints in my 93 coupe with 3:73's that's when my vibrations subsided a little. The ujoints defineatly helped, however I still have abit of driveline vibration. Driveline vibration can be caused by several different things, however if you get it after you have a gearset installed then it wasn't installed correctly, the gearset is out of balance, or the driveshaft was re-installed in a different position from where it came out. Since I wasn't the one who put the gears in my car, I'm thinking that i'm going to have to go back through it. But like i said, the new ujoints defineatly helped me. I'd go with a new alum driveshaft cause after you bolt on all the cheap bolt on's that you can think of, you'll end up replacing it eventually anyways. :)
 

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Ever see a stock steel one twist like playdoh?
 

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I had some nasty vibration in my car. I had 180,000 miles and stock gears. I replaced the motor and trans mounts, no improvement. Turns out, my yoke was worn. I picked up a Ford aluminum driveshaft and my problem has been resolved.


I had Bob Hanlon of Hanlon Motorsports recommend buying an aluminum driveshaft intead of replacing the U-joints and yoke becuase it would only cost a few more bucks for a balanced aluminum driveshaft, yoke and U-joints already installed. A Ford yoke was $90 and U-joints cost $15 a pop. For $30 more dollars you can get an aluminum driveshaft.
 

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For $150 the Ford aluminum DS is a bargain. Go price getting your stock steel, high mileage DS rebuilt and rebalanced. The local DS shop here does great work but they get $40 for just the balance.
Throw in $30 for 2 u-joints, labor and maybe a new yoke if the old ones worn and the aluminum DS looks pretty cheap.

It also makes changing it a 15 minute job instead of pulling it and then running it to the DS shop twice to drop it off and pick it up the next day.
 

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I went to a national drivetrain place in syracuse with my stocker off the old 88gt and got a balance, new ujoints, sanding, and painting for *FREE*

of course I wouldnt even dare launch hard with one if you have any kind of real power. If its old and rusty...a drive shaft loop may not save you
 
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