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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I just had my cross drilled rotors resurfaced & cut becaused they were glazed like no tomorrow , also I installed new pads . When im driving around local and not hard on the brakes she stops beautiful . But I notice when im on the highway and doing aggressive driving it's like my brakes overheat or something and when I slam on the brakes she just won't grab . I have the stock brakes and yes I know they are below adequate ..but for now what can I do to get a little better braking .. If I go with carbon metallic racing pads will this solve my problem ? Should I change my brake fluid to a higher temp fluid ?
 

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ZSRacingGT said:
I have the stock brakes and yes I know they are below adequate ..but for now what can I do to get a little better braking ..
Stock? On what? You are seeing brake fade. What are your stock brakes and how much money do you have to spend on brakes?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes thats the word im looking for " Fading ". Well I have the drums in the rear and the stock discs in the front . Well I got money set aside but i'm really saving up the money for a new motor . And i'm not really to keen on switching to a 5 lug disc brake system because I love the rims I have on now which are 4 lug =\ .
 

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A few things you could do, and still keep it 4 lug:

1988 Lincoln Mark VII Calipers- these have a 73mm piston vs. your stock 60mm piston. They bolt right on with no hassles. Cost-25.00 each, rebuilt. (ask for STEEL pistons)

1988 Lincoln Mark VII pads- These will also work on the Mustang rotors, with no hassle. cost- 25.00+

Solid steel caliper bushings for above- these reduce caliper 'flex'. Cost- approx. 25.00 for 4. (look in any MM&FF magazine, several companies make them)

DOT 5.1 brake fluid, made by Wagner Brake co. (Don't mistake this for DOT 5, which is different all together). Dot 5.1 is a conventional brake fluid, and far exceeds the boiling point of DOT 3 and DOT 4. Cost- 8.00 qt. (any auto parts store that sells Wagner brake products can order this for you)

Steel braided brake hoses (all 3)- several different companies make these also, just make sure they are DOT approved. (again check out MM&FF or 5.0 mag.) cost- varies with co.

All of the above items will greatly improve your braking, and allow you to keep your wheels!!:)
 

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computers_suc said:
Hey stanglx, if you were to change to the 73mm calipers, would you have to change your master cylinder too?
I did not change it, and others I know did not change it. But if my master ever goes bad, I will get an upgraded one. 2 years after the 73mm swap, and no problems what so ever! But for now "If it ain't broke don't fix it!"
 

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StangLX302 said:


I did not change it, and others I know did not change it. But if my master ever goes bad, I will get an upgraded one. 2 years after the 73mm swap, and no problems what so ever! But for now "If it ain't broke don't fix it!"
With my discount i can get the calipers for $15 canadian minus the core charge, the mark7 pads are pretty damn cheap too, while i'm at it i'm ordering the steel pin bushings and i'm gonna look into stainless brake lines. Did you feel a difference with the larger calipers?
 

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computers_suc said:


Did you feel a difference with the larger calipers?
Absolutely, especially at the drag strip when stopping from 118mph.

Don't forget about the DOT 5.1 fluid also (see above post). And make sure you bleed the heck out of it, to get ALL of the old fluid out. If you absolutley can not get DOT 5.1 fluid, at LEAST go with DOT 4.
 

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I have the Mark 7 calipers up front with a stock MC and i can lock them up fine. I did not need to get Mark 7 pads either. i reused my Mustang pads.

Get a set of Hawk Brake pads...best out there

ALso, some stainless caliper sleeves and some braided brake lines will help.

I am upgradeing to Mark 7 rear 11.25" disks soon so i will also upgrade the MC to a SVO one. Basically i will have Mark 7 brakes and rotors on all 4 wheels
 

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Becuase Ford, in its infinite "we don' need no steenking brakes" wisdom, only figured you needed one good stop at a time, then you went and further diminished the braking power by installing pimpy but ineffective drilled and slotted rotors. Put some real solid rotors back on the car, get some Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads on it, and maybe some brake ducting, and you'll be all set.

But I have to say, and I'm not really a prude about this stuff, but if you're working the brakes hard enough to overheat them repeatedly "on the highway doing aggressive driving", then brother, TAKE IT TO A TRACK. I don't want to be the one in front of you without a helmet on when you realize that THIS time the car's not gonna stop.
 

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First off, there is no need for dot5.1 fluid. A good 3 or 4 fluid is plenty.

second, your stock brakes suck! Unless you are going 1mph, you are not going to stop on a dime, dollar or even the length of a car! Upgrade

Personally, with how weak the brakes are on these cars and how fast they can be stock, you got priorities backwards. Upgrade the brakes before the motor. http://svo73mm.cjb.net
 

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Matt90GT said:
First off, there is no need for dot5.1 fluid. A good 3 or 4 fluid is plenty.


:confused: Please elaborate.....as to why not. DOT 5.1 isn't expensive at all, and I can't see any reason as why NOT to run it. Please educate me if I am wrong.
 

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about the Brake fluid..i have been using the Ford
HIgh Performance DOT3 Brake fluid on my LX for the past 8 years.That is when i changed my Brake lines to the Braided ones ( which weren't DOT leagal at the time) Anyway i have had no problem with the fluid.I do flush my systyem every 2 years.I installed Cross Drilled Rotors and Hawk pads on my stang last year and i have yet to see any fade.Also you can get semi mettalic brake shoes for the rear from Maximum Motorsports in CA.As for the Brake fluid you can buy at any ford Dealer ship for about $4 can.Hope this helps anyone.I will be looking in to the Mark VII calipers now.
 

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:confused:I still don't get it! I mean DOT 5.1 is only 8.00 a quart, so why not? That is like saying why run Mobil 1 when you can run Autozone Coastal 10W30 motor oil (cheapest at Autozone, for those who don't know). Will they both lubricate the motor? Yes. But will they both handle extreme driving conditions? Maybe, but I think the Mobil1 will hold up better.
Just a comparison I am trying to make on the brake fluid. Can some one give me a GOOD reason as why not to run DOT 5.1, and not just, "because DOT 3 is good enough". I mean we are not talking like it's $40.00 a quart or something. It's like $8.00 or so.
 

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It varries by brand, but you need to flush the system more with the higher temp stuff basically. It absorbs more water thus needs to be flushed more often. About the best stuff to put in the car and leave for street use is the Castrol LMA stuff.
 

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For brake fluid: 5.1 is okay, 5.0 IS NOT!!!!


No, please DO NOT USE DOT 5.0 in a street car - NEVER!

To use DOT 5.0 use ***MUST***,
o Pressure or DEALER vacuum bleed - I MEAN THE $$$$$$$ DEALER vacuum bleeders - not those worthless POS $100 units that people buy.

o Change your fluid VERY OFTEN - at LEAST once a year.

o You SHOULD change ALL calipers, wheel cylinders, rubber lines, and MC. You MUST make sure that all of the previous are OKAY with DOT 5.0. (Note: I doubt that any manufacturer is going to say so.) You should also completely flush all hard lines.



For more info see:
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-fluids.html
http://www.batauto.com/articles/brkfld.html
http://www.synlube.com/brake.htm
http://www.russellperformance.com/frequentlyautomotive.htm
http://www.belray.com/consumer/Q&A pages/q&abf.html
http://www.electricbbs.com/saab/brakes/brakebleed.html
http://www.danoland.com/nsxgarage/definitions.html
 
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