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I’m at the part in my build on an 89 LX where it’s time to order my wheels. I do have SSworxs fender flares that will be going on the car. I figured I should put them on after I have the wheels so we can set the angles of the flares correctly.

anyways, I’ve decided to run an 18x11” rim with a 315/30r18 tire. My only problem is the conflicting info I find for backspace/offset. I’ve been told to run no more than 6” back space and I’ve seen guys on Instagram who run a +23 to +33 offset which puts the wheels around a 6.91 - 7.10 backspace.

can anyone shed some light on this? It’s driving me nuts.
 

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Are you talking about 18x11" with 315s all around, or just in the rear? What suspension setup are you running? How big/wide are the SSworxs fender flares?
 

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When I was looking at wide wheels, in particular 18x11s with 315s, Jack Hidley from MM wanted +9mm offset on those wheels. However, the CCWs I wanted could only be machined at +19mm due to the 3" lip. These fit the rear of my '86 with sn95 axles fine with minor well bashing, but the front has to run a .5" spacer to clear the 10" C/Os as well as 2.5* negative camber.

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I'm actually going to be doing the same fender flares. Any advice? Will be doing the installation myself and possibly the body work as well.
I used the MM K member and their non-offset arms. This design pushes the front axle track forward .75" which causes the front tire to be not quite centered in the wheel well. If I'd thought about it I would have had the body guys move the front flares a little further forward to compensate.

The flares I used came with a raw, sharp outer edge. We put a small rolled "lip" on my flares to soften the edge. We had to add a couple of pieces of "wedge" shaped metal to blend into the body better. AFAIK, the body guys had no trouble tacking the flares on to the small lip they left after cutting the original flare off and molding them in.
 

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I used the MM K member and their non-offset arms. This design pushes the front axle track forward .75" which causes the front tire to be not quite centered in the wheel well. If I'd thought about it I would have had the body guys move the front flares a little further forward to compensate.

The flares I used came with a raw, sharp outer edge. We put a small rolled "lip" on my flares to soften the edge. We had to add a couple of pieces of "wedge" shaped metal to blend into the body better. AFAIK, the body guys had no trouble tacking the flares on to the small lip they left after cutting the original flare off and molding them in.
Thanks for the info. I will also be using a MM k memeber and non offset a arm. Would you recommend waiting until all suspension and wheel choice is set to match it all together?

I'm thinking of bolting on some plastic flares until I get the suspension and wheel choice locked in.
 

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Thanks for the info. I will also be using a MM k memeber and non offset a arm. Would you recommend waiting until all suspension and wheel choice is set to match it all together?

I'm thinking of bolting on some plastic flares until I get the suspension and wheel choice locked in.
No I wouldn't. I had the MM K, T/A and PHB on the car a couple of years before all this flare stuff was done. Even if you have a 90+ Fox with the front fender opening a little bigger, you still may need to cut some fender off at the extension depending on your wheel/tire package.

For example, before the flares I had to take out a pie-shaped wedge starting at 1" at the bottom and tapering up to blend into the original wheel arch to clear any wheel/tire package - it was that close after the MM k was installed. I had to run a pair of Cobra spares on the front until I could modify the fenders.

At the time, I was running either a 17x8 Cobra (96 or 01) with 245/45s or 255/40s all around, respectively, or a 95 Cobra R 17x9 with 255/45s. The 8s with the 245s or 255s fit fine, but the 9s with 255/45s got real close to the extensions requiring a bit more trimming. I used those wheel/tire packages as baselines against choices I plugged into on-line wheel package tool specs. I can't remember how many times I ran measurements. The flares didn't get near the inside clearance critical areas.

As for the rear, I used a selection of spacers to mimic the sn95 axle I intended to use - again, did a bunch of measuring and on-line tool use. Turns out the rear was easy; the front not so much. Finally settled on what I got based upon the research/advice and what CCW could make for me. It worked but I don't think I would have gone forward without the suspension on the car for the measuring that needed to be done.
 

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Those flares look awesome QTR, very well done!
Thanks. I wanted subtle, almost the same as stock. I've had guys ask if the fenders have been flared so I accomplished my goal.

While the in-your-face bolt-on flares and fenders work well, that wasn't the look I wanted - too race car. These are metal too so a little more durable. Downside, more expensive to put on especially if you want them blended into the body and the outer edge finished.
 

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Definitely more pricey BUT waaay worth it. I agree the fact folks have to ASK if you did it must feel soooo good! Kudos brother.
 
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