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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm new to this 5-speed thing,(I've always been an auto guy), and my T5 went south. I'm on a tight budget & my mechanic is a good tranny builder. I do not intend on my car ever developing beyond 13.0 flat E.T's since it willl continue to be my daily driver. I believe the T5 will do fine...am I correct? What will hurt it the easiest? Slicks? Hp & torque range you guy's feel or have experienced as safe? I know the factory ratings; I just want to hear it from experienced people as to what anyone here on the Corral thinks.....thanx in advance.
 

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I don't think slicks will hurt your T-5. I do however feel that powershifting will. You will be fine using a T-5 for a 12 or 13 sec daily driver. The weight of the vehicle and the lack of gear in the rear contribute greatly to the strain placed on the tranny....James
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanx for the reply....I was thinking I'd be ok but lack the experience with the 5.0 "revolution". I'm still awaiting the news on my trans teardown. The good news, i think anyway, is that the trans started working properly after the shop got it's hands on it. So, I'm thinking, the damage should be ...Opppps, I'm talking to him now & it's at least a grand...gotta go......
 

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I've been running 12's through mine, and currently on the brink of 11's, for a couple years now, while launching very hard on slicks, and I still drive it every nice day of the week. I do NOT powershift any gear at all, and I think that's why it is still alive.

Shift it fast, but do not powershift, and it will live, hopefully:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
.........and you probably do not hit the juice off the line; am I right or wrong? Whats you're 60 foot numbers....1.6? I am impressed by the fact your car is doing so well with the t5; did you purchase the trans brand new from the aftermarket or Ford? Thanx in advance.
 

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I converted my stock T5 with a Super Alloy 2.95 gearset.. I never ran it on slicks, but it left pretty hard on drag radials.. My car dyno'd 486 ft lbs of rwtq, well past the 330 ft lbs the new gear set was rated at..

With only 3.55 gears I ran it for years like that, racing pretty often.. And some time throwing full powershifts in all gears with a supercharged motor.. Never gave me a problem..

I think that is because of a couple of things.. #1.. I made sure the tranny was shimmed to perfection, with no input shaft looseness..
And #2.. I shifted at 5200 rpms, and my rev limiter was set at 5400 rpms.. When the shift light cam on and I grabbed a gear.. I believe the motor may have been tagging the rev limiter between shifts.. Because the next gear would just "fall" into place.. Even on full powershifts.. It didn't seem like any drama at all.. Even powershifting 3rd gear..

And on the "rare" occassion that I missed a shift.. The shift lever would just stop.. There wouldn't be any high rpm gear grinding.. The motor just stayed just about at the rpm that the shift was initiated at..

Durning the season the track was open..I raced at least once a week...Sometimes twice aweek.. Always driving to the track and driving home.. I sold that tranny last year, and the guy loves it.. Still shifts smooth as silk, and the shifter doesn't rattle.. That's what a good shim job will do for them..
 

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I raced my 2.95 first gear trans with a 358 windsor and a 200 shot for a full two seasons, never a breakage. Best et was 10.64 @ 129. I shifted with the gas pedal to the floor and stabbing the clutch pedal. The trans whined some, but as long as I pulled it out every season and shimmed it up and threw new blockers in it, I was fine. It lasted behind a 408 for a long time after that.
Improtant stuff is to make sure you have a good aluminum quadrant, and I like firewall adjusters to keep the clutch disengagement around half pedal. That way it is easier to time the left foot/right hand movements to synchronize and get into gear.
A grand for a T5 repair? You need to check out the shop below. That sounds wayyy high for a trans rebuild. Or is that R&R and rebuild, labor and all?
 

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how hard was it to shim up the tranny, Jeff? Did you do it yourself or did a friend set it up for you?

I want to get a tranny from G-force sooner or later, I've set up rear ends, and have the dial indicators and all of that crap, but I've never done a transmission before, and have been considering going that route.
 

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Power shifting will hurt them to a point. Here is an example:

My dad and I both have T5s with about the same miles (mine was done in a swap so we are guessing mileage by what the owner said) and we both race the same amount of time. I power shift while he runs just shy of power shifting, he lifts slightly. His car is mid to low 12s while mine is low 13s. My 2nd gear synchro went at the last event last year and his hasent had one issue.

There are tons of factors as to what hurts the trannies. I feel street abuse is almost as bad if not more so than track abuse, merely because the track abuse is not constant, and the car is left to rest between abuse, on the street it is non stop (for some).

I feel T5s are pretty strong, but they will break after a certain point.
 

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Take the bearing retainer off, tap the race out, and the shim should fall out with the race. Measure the shim, and go to your stash of shims, and get one that is a couple .001 larger, try it and see if there is any play left. Keep going until the shaft is firm, yet the trans still turns over easy. There is a long complicated way to do it, but this requires no special tools, save the shim kit.
I agree, any trans behind a bunch of power is a ticking bomb. Ask Don Walsh Jr, when he turned an 1 7/8 diameter input shaft into powder and a grenade. I was just saying that it can be done, and there is another thread where a guy just went 9.80 on the juice with a T5, not my cup of tea. 10's were scary enough for me.
 

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Shade said:
how hard was it to shim up the tranny, Jeff? Did you do it yourself or did a friend set it up for you?

I bought a packet of various size shims from D&D, as I recall, pretty cheap..

Shimming the countershaft is pretty involved.. You have to remove the tail shaft housing and top cover.. But shimming the mainshaft (the most important shaft to have shimmed right) is real easy.. The shims are right behind the bearing retainer on the front of the tranny..

The manual will tell you that you need to have the tranny secured to a bench, with the input shaft pointed down.. And a dial indicator on the output shaft... That's fine if you want to actually measure the endplay.. You're shooting for "zero" or plus .001...

But I have shimmed many a tranny by simply getting "the wiggle" out of the input shaft.. You have to sneak up on the proper shim size..So as not to get them too tight.. Every T5 that I have ever seen, has an input shaft that you can wiggle with your hand..EVERYONE OF THEM.. That's what causes shifters to rattle.. And gears and synchro's to break.. D&D told me I should check my trannys shimming with every clutch replacement.. Here is how you can easily do it..

Wiggle the input shaft by hand.. Now replace the shim behind the bearing retainer with one (or a combination) that's about 2 thousand thicker.. If it still has a slight wiggle, go 2 thousand more.. The point is to go slow on thickness increases.. That way, if you go 2 thousand more, and it feels to tight.. You can back off by a thousand and be just right..

From what I have seen.. Every brand new T5 will "settle in" after a few miles and loose it's proper shimming.. But once they have been reshimmed.. They will hold for a long time..

After replacing all the gears and bearings in my T5.. I then went back about 100 miles later, and pulling the tranny and reshimming it.. When I sold that tranny years later, after hundreds of supercharged drag strip passes.. It was still rock solid,with no input shaft wiggle..
 
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