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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Im running 1.35 60fts with 28.5 x10.5 slick . I am now only using 100 shot from twin Gemini and was wondering how I could leave on 200 shot. I dont think it will hook but if it did there will be no way to hold it down since it will already carries the front end 60 ft. I tried tying it down to 3 inches of travel , that helped but it came down hard and seem to hurt 60ft times. I already set pinion angle to 6 neg using southside lowers 70/30 struts. What spring would be best in front? Could i tune some of the torque out of it? Thanks any advice would be appreciated ED.
 

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Well...

there are a few ways that I know of...first....have some kind of adjustable ingnition setup where you can kill some timing (and thereby some hp) down low where you launch rpm is at...or you can get a adjustable nitrous controler...several of the nitrous companys make them..NOS and NX both do I know.
 

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As mentioned above, NOS makes a Progressive controller that is not only time based but level based as well. So if you ran a 200 HP shot, you can dial in to have it at a 50 % level at .000 seconds and have it reach 100% lets say in 8 seconds. $600.00 for the controller. If you couple that with an MSD Dig. Prom 7 you can plot your timing curve over the entire run. Can't tune out the torque, that is what N2O makes.

Ron
 

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try 2 stage , leave on 75hp then pull a 125hp on top of it . or try this put a longer nitrous feed line on it .(from the soliniod to the plate ) take nitrous longer to get to plate which softins the hit of the nitrous . (it makes the car go fat till the nitrous kits ,but makes the same power ).

i run a 2stage kit with the 1st kit setup like this (street use) so i can hook the car (on the street)then i pull the 2nd kit to run out the other end,after car hooks .

just my thoughts .

seeya eric
 

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Increase the rear spring rate and install adjustable shocks on the rear. I used to leave on a 350 hp shot with a big block and would get 2-3 turns of the rear tire and about the same 60ft. times you are having.
 

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try 2 stage , leave on 75hp then pull a 125hp on top of it . or try this put a longer nitrous feed line on it .(from the soliniod to the plate ) take nitrous longer to get to plate which softins the hit of the nitrous . (it makes the car go fat till the nitrous kits ,but makes the same power ).
I'm sorry, I think you lost me here. You are running 2 sets of solenoids? One comes in on launch and then you have a button to activate the second stage? So have a fogger and a plate or a cross plate? And you have the line to the second stage longer...like a 16 foot spool of line on the front seat? So there is no purge on the second bottle, or you "T" off the single bottle?
I would think the cost of the second bottle, solenoids and line would pay for a controller.

Ron
 

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I personally do not purge when I am worried about the traction. It really softens the hit. The long line to the plate works well also.
 

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For heads up racing I guess that might work, but to be consistent in ET barckets it would never work. Same bottle pressure evry run, same burnout time..etc. As you work through eliminations the passes get a lot closer together, gets even tougher.

Ron
 

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That is exactly why I do not use the spray for bracket racing. If I do use it in the brackets it is usually in the last 200ft to get the advange when I have a bad light. You would be suprised how many guys breakout when you dump them. as far purging goes, why advertise.
 
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