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Discussion Starter #1
I run the stock radiator and fan with my 331 stroker in a 1995 GT. It stays cool under most conditions without the A/C on. If I get stuck in thick traffic in the middle of town the car will start to run hotter. The car doesn't run hot on the highway with the A/C on. However it always runs hotter if I turn the A/C on in town with any kind of mild or thick traffic, so much so that I just turn the A/C off to be safe. The temperature gauge goes back down once I shut the A/C off in town.

Would a better radiator remedy this, or would something else be the culprit. I have not put a real temp gauge on to test it, but I am basing this all on the stock temperature gauge. The fan seems to be working just fine. I also live in the South, and it gets very hot here during the summer, and driving the car without A/C during the day is not fun at all.
 

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I have a skinny assed stock replacement with a Mark VII fan and a Derale PWM controller in my Mark VII with a 347. No problems in the Fort Worth, TX summer.
Define "starts to run hotter". A little warmer, or gets too close to overheating?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I'm in traffic in town, with the A/C on, the needle starts to move to the right. The needle will eventually go all the way to the right inside the normal range which seems to me as too close to overheating. It takes about 15 - 20 minutes of driving in traffic for the temperature to start really climbing. I always just shut the A/C off when I see it moving that close to hot, and then the temps go back to normal.

It just seems like something might be wrong, but it drives normal without the A/C. It only gets a little bit hotter driving in traffic without the A/C on, but nothing that gets me too worried.
 

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I run a sve radiator with contour fans and it works great with a turbo and 363. Put an actual gauge in there and see what it's doing. You may just need a flush. I once had that issue on a older setup and I found out my water pump was partially plugged up
 

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Ditto. First make sure everything is up to snuff, condition etc. Then check actual temperature if it still seems high.

If you don't already, add a bottle of Water Weter or similar brand product. Those help, the coolant transfers heat quicker, and it has lubricants for the water pump etc. I've seen a slight drop on the OEM gauge using Water Weter, just a hair, but noticeable. Also a 180 T'stat and adjusting the fan controller could help too. You don't need 200* coolant for heat or the AC in the South.
 

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A 180 degree thermostat does zero to keep an engine running cooler. It simply opens the flow sooner and it will take longer to get to the temps he is observing.
Whatever the issue is, a 180 t-stat is not even part of the answer.

The advice to plug in an aftermarket temp gauge to see actual temps is spot on. The stock gauges are less than precision pieces. See if you are actually running too hot, then start looking for the cause.
 

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When I'm in traffic in town, with the A/C on, the needle starts to move to the right. The needle will eventually go all the way to the right inside the normal range which seems to me as too close to overheating. It takes about 15 - 20 minutes of driving in traffic for the temperature to start really climbing. I always just shut the A/C off when I see it moving that close to hot, and then the temps go back to normal.

It just seems like something might be wrong, but it drives normal without the A/C. It only gets a little bit hotter driving in traffic without the A/C on, but nothing that gets me too worried.

when was the last time you cleaned condenser and rad.......blown it out reverse with compressed air?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
when was the last time you cleaned condenser and rad.......blown it out reverse with compressed air?
I replaced the radiator with a new one 3 years ago. Other than that I have not cleaned the condenser or radiator recently at all.
 

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I had a 347 in a 95 and a 96. The stock fans pull more air than most other aftermarket ones. It gets pretty damn hot down here, so I bought a $190 sr performance radiator from americanmuscle. Keeps the car at 180* no matter what the ambient temp is.
 

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Stock bottom end, TFS heads and cam, GT-40 intake, DFW summer heat, SVE radiator, MkVIII fan, 180 T-stat, Cowl hood, runs 180 tops... Absolutely no issue with heat on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well I guess I'll just get a gauge and see what my car is actually doing first before I do anything. There may be nothing wrong with my car at all. The stock gauge may just not be reading right, but if there is something fishy happening then I'll know it by the real gauge hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had a 347 in a 95 and a 96. The stock fans pull more air than most other aftermarket ones. It gets pretty damn hot down here, so I bought a $190 sr performance radiator from americanmuscle. Keeps the car at 180* no matter what the ambient temp is.
Nice, I've been wondering what the quality is on those radiators, and depending on if I find a problem with my stock radiator I might just get one.
 

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Here in Houston running a 3 core Fluidyne and a Ford Contour dual electric fan powered by a plugged in temp sensor. Runs 195-200 degrees on a 70% water mix. 195 temp thermostat. On really cold days it'll run 185-195 degrees. Experimented with Water Wetter, it only lowered temps about a week down 5-7 degrees, then back to normal. New Stock fan with HD clutch wasn't enough on the 347(10.5CR) and 180 thermostat stayed open too long to maintain a comfortable temp. It would creep up to 205-210 in traffic regardless of which fan I used. HTH.
 

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Definitely get an accurate temp reading. When I switched to an aftermarket temp gauge and verified the readings I realized I was always running 210-220 with the occasional temp spikes in traffic. Similar to what your experiencing. I now run an SVE aluminum radiator and Mark Fan and my temp stays around 190, that’s when my fan kicks in. If you go Mark fan make sure your electrical is up to handle that fan.
 
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