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This is a N/A application and probably going to stay that way for the forseeable future. I'm just looking to do everything worth doing to it short of a SC. I'm planning on 4.10's and a chip in a week or two. I'm also doing the Steeda side exhaust system shortly and probably a Bassanni X pipe (w/cats) shortly thereafter. Really, that's the only stuff I've heard people talk about giving a major performance boost.

What's the deal with underdrive pullies? Theyre advertised as giving you 20hp but that seems like :bs: to me. I want a daily driver that hauls ass, and that means a decent audio setup (I have the factory radio with nice interior speakers but plan on putting in a slightly nicer radio). Isn't that going to be a problem if I go with underdrives?

Outside of the above listed mods what can be done that you will really notice? I know NOS is probably going to be mentioned too, and I would consider it but probably only as a finishing touch.
 

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underdrive pullies are a godd mod and give a good gain 20hp at the flywheel I will buy from what I hear about 7RWHP and the T/A also is a good mod for some more ponies. If you put a 1000W amp in then you might have some problems other than that you should be ok I have seen people on here with aftermarket stereo's that claim no problems. Now the side exhaust ont give you any gains but it looks awesome the x-pipe will give you gains that differ on any automobile I wont say how much to aoid flaming also you hould consider LT's they are an excellent mod for your car with nice gains also
 

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I think pullys are a great bang for the buck, no dyno numbers but you can feel the off the line difference (its more power than a K&N, Throttle body, $100 spark plugs, or CAI) Mine are the Steeda's and i like the one piece (non piggy back) dampener, i have no cooling or charging problems.
 

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If you want the underdrives and the stereo, just don't swap the alternator pulley. You really won't see much difference and you won't have the charging "issues." I've had my UD on for about 5 months and I'm changing my alternator pulley back soon.

Tim
 

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The basics:

4.10/4.30 gears
Long tube headers
Off road X or H pipe
Underdrive pullies
Chip (for the gears, but also can add a small gain through timing and A/F adjustments)
MAFS
70mm throttle body
Cold air kit

That should get you in the low 13's on the factory tires no problem, with a decent 60ft of course (2.0x or better).

Weight reduction, sticky tires, skinnies, and driving can get you mid/high 12's, depending on weather/track conditions.

Eric
 

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Mods to go with, IMO

IMO, I would go with mac l/t, mac pro-chamber, mac cat-back(all made to fit together), and ported heads and cams, all tuned of course from a Tweecer. The heads and cams are expensive but that sound coming from a 99-up GT/Cobra is just breath taking. They also add around(I said around) 70-100hp(somewhere in between). O and 4.10s. All=:evil: and no more LSwhat?
 

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I also have the steeda pullies and a sub in the trunk with no problems at all...

I fealt the timing adjuster the most
 

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I don't know about the HP gain on the underdrive pullies but I know that I see about 20-30 more miles to a tank of gas now. I was so surprised about that. Defineatly do the gears, that's one of those mods that you will feel. I get about 225 miles to a tank after the pullies. I'm defineatly happy with those, I got mine from a friend for $80 so that was probably the cheapest mod with the best outcome. But my fav's are the springs and the gears. On a 2V mod I wouldn't go lower than 4.10. 4.30's are too much for a daily driver. IMO.
 

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Here's what I did:

Used X pipe w/cats: $175.

Steeda pullies: $158.

Steeda T/A: $152.

Total spent : $485.


Dead stock I ran a 14.3 at 96 mph, 2.09 60 ft.

After the additional of the above parts, timing set 13.5 degrees

I ran a 13.9 @ 99, with a 2.06 60 ft.

If you take the rule of thumb 1 mph = 10 hp, i got about 30 hp.
If you take the 0.1 Et = 10 hp, that's 40 hp, which seems too high for what I did. The car also probably loosened up over time = better runs.

Important point: You feel the T/A pullies down low where you need them even though the total gain is probably 10 hp or so, down low that 6-7 off idle is a big difference. In contrast, the X pipe doesn't feel too different except 2500 and up.

My next mod is drag radials then either PI 3200 stall and rechip for better shifts or Fox lake heads.

I'd hope if I got the stall then my time would be around 13.65, maybe the heads down to 13.5, both plus gears= ???? 13.2?

No I' m not scared of tearing my engine apart............just putting it back together.
:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Doggamatic said:
Here's what I did:

Used X pipe w/cats: $175.

Steeda pullies: $158.

Steeda T/A: $152.

Total spent : $485.


Dead stock I ran a 14.3 at 96 mph, 2.09 60 ft.

After the additional of the above parts, timing set 13.5 degrees

I ran a 13.9 @ 99, with a 2.06 60 ft.

If you take the rule of thumb 1 mph = 10 hp, i got about 30 hp.
If you take the 0.1 Et = 10 hp, that's 40 hp, which seems too high for what I did. The car also probably loosened up over time = better runs.

Important point: You feel the T/A pullies down low where you need them even though the total gain is probably 10 hp or so, down low that 6-7 off idle is a big difference. In contrast, the X pipe doesn't feel too different except 2500 and up.

My next mod is drag radials then either PI 3200 stall and rechip for better shifts or Fox lake heads.

I'd hope if I got the stall then my time would be around 13.65, maybe the heads down to 13.5, both plus gears= ???? 13.2?

No I' m not scared of tearing my engine apart............just putting it back together.
:lol:
Thats cool maybe i can ind a good deal like that too! Ill start looking.
 

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The T/A I got new in the box from Thunderbolt-motorsports in Miami, FL. Free UPS shipping.

Thunderbolt is super cool to deal with the parts were there two days later. They were on back order for the pullies[ X-mas time of course] so I got mine from The Mustang Depot in Los Angeles. Again, Free shipping, fast service.

These two were $310 shipped compared to about $400 list. Every little bit helps. After I bought mine I saw a T/A & pullies set for $200 used, the guy said he was putting a Vortech on the car.......still I like the idea of new for something like a harmonic dampener[if the car had been in a front end crash or the pullies were damaged during the first install, could be trouble.]

The X-pipe was a lucky find on e-bay; Another suggestion would be to talk to a local exhaust shop and see if they'd be willing to weld in some hi-flo cats on an Off Road pipe for you. They might do the welding but not the install if you have less than 50,000 miles.......you know EPA and all that.

My alternate plan was to get a used/new O/R pipe say $100-150 bucks, then buy two new hi-flow cats for about $75 a piece, that's $250 total, plus 50$ to get it welded into the O/R pipe. I'd use clamps just to get it to the exhaust shop.Not as nice as a Magnaflow but not $400 -450 either.

Now a convertor, I'm scared to get a used one of those, little bits of contaminants might be in there from the last transmission, just waiting to ruin yours. I'm trying to save $$$ where I can and cough up new where I need to. It IS a new car after all.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.
 

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Believe it or not, the mods that made me feel great was the shifter and the clutch quad.

These things increase your tactile feel of the car...especially the shifter.

I picked up .2 in the quarter just from the shifter because I wasn't missing or slow shifting anymore.

Consider a TriAxe or a Pro 5.0.

Pulleys are fine, the T/A is fine, the chip is worthless, the X is good, the after cat is good, and the Long tubes are AWESOME, but a challenge to install. Gears are key!!! Don't bother with a bigger T-body unless you port the heads or go power adder. Folks lose torque with a bigger TB and a bigger MAF meter on a stock N/A 2v.
 
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