Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 26 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Alrighty, here's the situation. I can not set my timing above 11 degrees, if I do my car misses and sputters like crazy. I also pulled the spout out, and tried setting my timing to 30-32 degrees. Whenever I go above 26 degrees, it does the same thing.

This is telling me that I have an internal timing problem? Is my cam way out of degree? My 1.7s need shimmed up? I'd appreciate any info, because I wanna get back w/my mechanic on this beings that he's the one who's done all the work....I need something to show him, other than my complaining, so he will tear it apart and fix it up.

Also, I have an all new distributor, wires, plugs, rotor and cap, I've done a compression test and leakdown test....all w/positive results.

Thanks in advance for any help. :joy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,669 Posts
What grade gas do you use? How old is your fuel filter? Have you run fuel injector cleaner through it lately?

Do you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and if so, what is it set at? Do you have the stock fuel pump or an aftermarket one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Only premium, 93-94 octane.
Fuel filter is only 2 months old, it's a ford part, not some "wang foo tai" brand.
Just ran injector cleaner through this weekend.
My AFPR likes to be at 40psi, it's a BBK part only 6 months old
Fual pump is a stock rated one now, used to have a 190lph BBK but swapped it out thinking it might be the cause of my problems. It wasn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,669 Posts
FakeSaleen said:
Only premium, 93-94 octane.
Fuel filter is only 2 months old, it's a ford part, not some "wang foo tai" brand.
Just ran injector cleaner through this weekend.
My AFPR likes to be at 40psi, it's a BBK part only 6 months old
Fual pump is a stock rated one now, used to have a 190lph BBK but swapped it out thinking it might be the cause of my problems. It wasn't.
40 PSI with the vaccuum line on or off?

Wang Foo Tai? Are they a competitor of "Suckahatchi?"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Is your balancer spun?

A sure fire way to verify that your cam is set up correctly is to do the work yourself. Cheaper and you will know it is right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
533 Posts
FakeSaleen said:
Alrighty, here's the situation. I can not set my timing above 11 degrees, if I do my car misses and sputters like crazy. I also pulled the spout out, and tried setting my timing to 30-32 degrees. Whenever I go above 26 degrees, it does the same thing.
Let me get this right.. from reading your post it sounds like your
trying to set timing with the spout IN and it sputters when you advance it above 11* then you say you PULL the spout and it sputters above 26* is it just me or is something wrong here.
I've always pulled my spout before ANY timing changes and I run with about 12-14* of timing, if I tried to advace to 26* I have no doubt mine would sputter also. With the spout in I would have a hard time trying to adjust timing cause its back & forth jumping 2-3 degrees.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
erik_94COBRA:

Just installed a new balancer last week...heheh :cool:
I would do my own work, but have neither the tools or the hands on knowledge. :(

Anaconda:

Hahaha ya never know w/all that crap!
That's 40psi vaccum off, it's around 31-32 vaccum on at idle, engine at operating temperature.

94SVT:

I know that when you adjust timing, that you remove the spout, start the engine, turn distributor clockwise, verify timing w/light, shut car off, plug spout back in, and etc.
My point was that I can not go above 11 degrees w/that method. Another method I've heard of is removing the spout all together, setting timing around 30 and seeing what happens. I've read of alot of success stories w/this, beings that the computer no longer influences timing during engine operation w/out the spout being there. Some cars love it, some cars run worse....I only did this as a troubleshooting procedure.

Thanks for the help guys, keep 'em coming! :joy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
605 Posts
Do you have a chip or anything that is adding timing exrternally?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Just a thought, check the plug wires and make sure they are on in the correct order?
Might want to verfy that the balencer points to zero then the #1 cylinder is at TDC.
That's all I can think of.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
The distributor wasnt like a tooth off when you reinstalled it? How about the rotor? When you pull the cap on the distributor see what cylinder it is on, then see if that cylinder is at top dead center.:confused:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
I don't think his distributor being off a tooth would matter since he's timing it off the damper, he'd just have to rotate it a bit more to get to the same reading. I am a bit confused though, your references to the spout connecter are odd. Completely out? The thing is either in or it's not! If you're doing the check with the engine warm, spout removed and timing set around 10-11 I don't know why you'd have the trouble you describe, that's a pretty conservative setting. You FP sounds good to. You don't maybe have a dead spot in your TPS do you? eh, na you said it only does it if advance above 11 degrees so that's out. I assume you don't have a check engine light or anything? Sorry I'm no help but at least this gets it to the top again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
94CobraPace:

Checked that, all wires are ran correctly and TDC has been confirmed.

nunly94GT:

Checked that also, although I might look a little further into that, a double check and such.

fastang50:

Removing the spout is for testing purposes, although I've read reports where people have gained more rwhp and shaved a tenth off w/out it installed. They achieved this by bumping there timing up to the 30-34 range.

Thanks for the help guys, it's appreciated. Maybe one of these days it'll run right...ehh prolly not. :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
741 Posts
FakeSaleen,
As I'm sure you've noticed from reading this board, many of us SN95s have ping. It's almost a weekly post. Ford just tuned these things to run as lean as posible for the smog nazis. When near stock mine pinged, even after FULL tune-up: all filters, plugs/wires, cap/rotor, & O2s! I couldn't set timming past 9*. Then, one saturday morning, I got made as HE!!. And did the following:

Removed the upper intake & removed & cleaned the ERG, TB, IAC. Even cleaned the entire upper intake/elbow. It was full of crap like K&N oil, etc... I taped a toothbrush to a stick so I could scrub out the runners with TB cleaner, the lower too! I used an entire can of cleaner & scrubed the piss out of everything. I cleaned MAF & ACT with alchohol & a Qtip.

End result: No ping @ 11* w/ 87 octane. A little ping @ 13* with 87, went away with 91. It was fine after that. Soon after I did heads/intake swap & all is still well. Take it for what it's worth, but I think EVERYTHING has to be in tip-top shape for these things to run right. Ford didn't leave any "safety zone" in the EECs. Good luck.

EDIT: Could also clean the injectors while the upper is off. Only a little more work & it couldn't hurt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Holy crap! I guess you did get mad as hell!!!! :D

Hell sounds like an idea, good way to spend a boring weekend. Although my problem isn't really ping, when I attempt to raise timing I get studdering, eratic idle and extreme loss of power. But it never once pings. It's really weird, has me confused for sure hahaha....

Thanks for your input man, I'll look into that for sure. :joy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,249 Posts
Been thinking about this, did you just have a cam installed? Or other work?
Maybe the dots on the cam and crank are not aligned correctly, when the timing chain was installed. Was the cam installed straight up?
Also have you done a compression test & leak down?
Just throwing things out.
Were the springs on the heads checked for seat pressure, open & closed? Had this happen after a rebuild, the springs were even checked when valve job was done. A larger cam will take the spring out of older springs, been there.
Possible the rockers need to be shimmid, and not closing all the valves way or opening as much as should be. Compression test should not hold pressure or is low. Could also put a dial indicator on the rocker arm over the valve to make sure it is getting proper lift.
How many miles are on the lifters? Could be weak, from internal spring or low oil pressure.
All those things affect timing and have to work together and at the precise time for the motor to run up to its full potential.
Like I said, just throwing thing out to check. Maybe 1 will locate the problem. Might consider taking it back to the mechanic and let him tell you why the timing cannot be advanced past 10 or 11 degrees.
Keep us posted & good luck:)
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Top