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Discussion Starter #1
Warped my stock '96 GT Rotors after 15K miles and replaced under warrantee.

Warped my second set after warrantee (30K).. and lived with it 'til I bought the "DiskBrakes-R-Us" 13" Cobra conversion at 90K.

Warped those 13" after only 5Kmiles and lived with them 'til I got them resurfaced... that lasted for 1K miles... warped AGAIN!!!!

Am I just victim of cr*ppy alloys used in the castings???

Are the $100/each Brembo Rotors of superior alloy so my warpage will go away???

Tired and Sick of cr*ppy Ford Brakes!!!
 

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Sounds like your driving the brakes very hard. Brembos might be the answer. The Bullit brake upgrade uses Brembo rotors.

Resurfacing actually makes them more prone to warping because you are removing material and making them thinner.
 

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Yours probably are warped.

I had to take mine in at 500 miles. Mine were warped from the dealer.

Meet a friend who just bought a Taurus when I was leaving the dealer and his brakes were warped with 62 miles on the car.

I think it is a Ford problem. Maybe they are storing the parts wrong or just getting bad quality parts.
 

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Warped rotors come from three things mainly.
1. overtourqing the wheels when putting them back on and driving it.

2. you erear brakes are out of adjustment. This doesn't apply if you have rear disc.

3. You are a horrible driver and need to take it easier on your brakes.

If you went to a 13 inch upgrade I would suggest a new style of driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Warpage and Metallurgy..

willbill said:
Warped rotors come from three things mainly.
1. overtourqing the wheels when putting them back on and driving it.

Used torque wrench and Ford Factory Specs each time...

2. you erear brakes are out of adjustment. This doesn't apply if you have rear disc.

???? Don't understand your intended message here...

3. You are a horrible driver and need to take it easier on your brakes.

If you went to a 13 inch upgrade I would suggest a new style of driving.
You are too kind....
Don't hold back Will, come on.. say it!!!

Yes, it is always a possibilty I'm a "horrible driver", but add this up if you will...

1) At 115K miles, I'm still on the original cllutch
2) Up to the caliper/rotor change at 90+K miles, I was still on the second set of disc pads which at that time, had 75K miles on them, and they were NOT worn out!

3) I'm well aware of the hazards of stomping on the brakes (or dragging the brakes, or holding them at a stop light after hard braking) and in a word.. DON'T..

I'm very easy on my cars.

I'll admit to only one transgression... I Autocrossed the first set of calipers and roasted them that way.. however, all the GT's from '96 to '98 had warpage problems... this is why Ford went to the twin piston Caliper on the GT in '99.


Anyhow, back to the original question which I will rephrase. Has anyone got any back to back comparisons of the Brembo 13" vs. all the "American Made" and Import copies (of which I apparently bought from Brakes are Us)???

Warpage can also result from improper alloying and heat treating/cooling of the original castings which is what I'm after......
 

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Warpage can also result from improper alloying and heat treating/cooling of the original castings which is what I'm after......


If this were the case they would shake right out of the box.

Didn't mean to sound mean but do you know how much you get yelled at in the auto business because some jerk beats the piss out of his car and then yells at me when his rotors are warped especially after cutting them.

If I came off harsh I am soryy, I didn't mean anything by it. This issue is one of my pet peeves.
 

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I had the same problem with my stock rotors. Replaced them with the Bullit upgrade and warped them after 30K.

It is possible that the rotors are not sitting flush against the hub. Before you install the new rotors, clean off the hub with a wire brush.
 

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My stock rotors became warped around 35K... I had them "turned" and 7K later they are still fine.

I think mine was because of how much I abused them...
 

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I beat the hell out of my Cobra 13" rotors and Hawk pads! I have 54k miles on them and they're fine. Maybe there's some crap going around?


dave
 

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By the way, that seasoning routine is quite involved!!! And which pads do you use for them, the old ones? And then the new pads when you're ready to bed them!?

D
 

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rammer said:
By the way, that seasoning routine is quite involved!!! And which pads do you use for them, the old ones? And then the new pads when you're ready to bed them!?

D
You don't switch pads. They'll talk about bedding multiple sets of pads just in case you need to switch to new pads at the track.

I, like many people, have had warped rotors on every car I've owned. It usually takes a long time to get there, but it's inevitable. I think part of the problem is that every once in awhile if I see an open, sweeping turn (on-ramp...), I'll do some heel-and-toe downshifting like I'm racing and fly around the corner. So, my rotors are getting quite hot without properly warming them up. It's part of the reason that I have the car I have: to do stuff like that, though my rotors will obviously pay the price.

I decided that I have nothing to lose by doing the seasoning and bedding that they suggest. Plus, my father is friends with Hal Baer, so I guess I tend to believe them more since I like em.
 

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DB96GT said:
Read this about warping. Season them.

http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4

Also, if the slide pins aren't cleaned and greased well, the caliper might stick too much to the rotors, causing them to heat up too much.
so true, it's beneficial to clean and lube those thoroughly. sometimes I use a small file or sandpaper to clean that gunk that builds up on it. A lot "professionals" neglect this as well. (mostly to save time)
 
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