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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone....I bought some underdrive pullies used and have been having one hell of a time with Steeda's instructions...anyways, do you have to remove the harmonic balancer off the stock pulley?? Also, does the crankshaft seal need to be put back in and if so, does it just rest around the bolt??? And finally, is the new bolt supplied supposed to be so tight to go back on? It's almost like it is too big for the crankshaft hole. I tried tightening it and after ages it still didn't pull the pulley on...so, I'm beginning to think I don't have the correct supplied bolt. Is there any other way to get the crank back on? I have everything done except the crank and putting the alternator pulley back on. I need help ASAP. Thanks.
 

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What you are explaining doesnt really make sence. The crank pulley and balancer is one peice, the crank seal shouldnt have come off and be sure you put it back on or you will be slinging oil everywhere. Use the stock bolt to run the Crank pulley/ blancer. I made the mistake of using a different bolt and broke a bolt off in my crank, it took me and a friend 2 days straight to drill out the grade 8 bolt. The reason it broke off is because the stock one is taperd at the end. So run it up with the stock crank bolt, then pull it out and use the one supplied with the pulley, and if it didnt come with one go down to the hardware store and get one.......
hope i was helpful......good luck
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh...well that makes alot of sense now. The bolt that is supplied with the kit, does it take lots of effort to turn??? It seems to me that it is not wanting to turn and takes lots of effort, but maybe this is normal???
 

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I have the Steeda intstructions, and they seem pretty clear.... In big type even. My instructions are specific... Do not use the bolt supplied. The bolt supplied is to get the balancer started on the crank. Use the stock bolt to fasten.

There are instructions on the Steeda site www.steeda.com .. click on technical info

There are specific tourque specs. Are you sure you have the right instructions?

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I bought these used, so I got them from some other site. Anyways, I know about using the Longer than stock bolt to pull the bulley onto the crank...but this bolt is REALLY difficult to turn. And yes, I tried pulling it out and using the stock one and it can't quite grab. However, I'm afraid I'm going to break the long bolt when I'm tightening it.
 

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a crank bolt at ford dealer is $6. People say you shouldnt use the same bolt. My pulleys went on fine except my belts would stop squealing. So I got a 1/4 inch smaller belt and all is fine now.
 

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AJMD69 said:
a crank bolt at ford dealer is $6. People say you shouldnt use the same bolt. My pulleys went on fine except my belts would stop squealing. So I got a 1/4 inch smaller belt and all is fine now.
You mean your belts would start squealing, so you got a 1/4 smaller belt?:confused: :hammer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It was a bad thread on both the supplied crank bolt, and the supplied extra-long crank bolt. Helicoiled the actual crank and had to machine the bolts and the crank...but after 5 hours I finally got it on. By the way, the extra-long bolt supplied was about 2 inches too long so I had to go dig up about 2 inches worth of washers. I think all in all it was worth it though because the car feels much stronger down low...with no ill side-effects present.
 

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I just ran accross an article on how to get the balancer on with only the stock bolt. In the "How To" section of Mustang World.
www.mustangworld.com

In the artilce on pully replacement, go to page 2 and read items 19,20,21

Basically what it says is... You can put the balancer in a shallow cooking pan with just enough water to cover it, and boil it for 10 minutes. According to the article, it will expand the metal just enough to get it back on, providing you work fast.

I suspect this is how Martha Stewart does her mods.... Anyway, I thought of your post and thought I'd pass this along.
 

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Better than boiling it in water...put it on a cookie sheet and toss it in the oven at 350 degrees. Boiling will only get it to 212 degrees. The more it heats up the easier it is to get on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I appreciate the advice, but I'm already finished. I have to say this mod is as good as the C&L plenum in the SOTP department. Really woke up the car.
 

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Steeda1999 said:
You mean your belts would start squealing, so you got a 1/4 smaller belt?:confused: :hammer:
#1 i was drunk when i posted.
#2 Yes, my belts would not stop squealing so i got a quarter inch length of a belt and now it doesnt squeal anymore.
 

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the extra-long bolt supplied was about 2 inches too long so I had to go dig up about 2 inches worth of washers.
I think that bolt is only to get it started going on, then back it out and use the stock bolt.
 

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Whoa....whoa.......whoa!!!!

First of all, the crank bolt is a torque to yield bolt. I think most of you know that, but some seem to be missing that point. So you can never use the old stock bolt when putting on the crank pulley. I wouldn't use any other bolt than the Ford bolt either.....especially if it's beginning to bind! That's something you don't need to mess around with.

If you lube the crank and the pulley with some oil, you will probably be able to use a rubber mallet to tap the pulley onto the crank. If not, then heat it up with any of the methods listed above. Then you are supposed to put some silicone in the keyway hole, replace the crank bolt washer, and follow the bolt tightening procedure.

I believe it goes something like:
1. Tighten crank bolt to 66 ft/lbs
2. Loosen one full turn.
3. Tighten crank bolt to 36 ft/lbs
4. Tighten additional 90°

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I did use a new bolt, and everything is running fine. I used the torque wrench method to get it on. I know I didn't list everything I did, but my crank definitely wouldn't go on at all with the longer bolt. I don't see how it could pull the pulley on at all unless it was about 3 inches shorter so the head would push on the washer on the inside of the pulley. Anyways, after beating it senseless with a mallet (moved it in maybe 1/16th of an inch) I finally thought of putting 3 inches of washers on the long as bolt and tightening it....worked great. By the way, this wouldn't have been the best driveway job, I suggest having access to a lift.
 
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