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Also another question I have is what are the best gears to put in the car? I was thinking 3.73s but someone told me they didn't see boost up 3rd gear. But most of the cars I see that drag race have 3.73. Should I go 3.55 instead or keep stock gearing?
I've alway ran 373s. But 373s I think work better for centrifugal blowers, which is what I've always had.

Now with a turbo, I wish I had 355s or maybe 327s. 1st gear with a stick shift is ass. Turbo isn't doing **** until second gear.
I'd probaby keep 373s if I was running a auto, but Def not a stick car.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I've alway ran 373s. But 373s I think work better for centrifugal blowers, which is what I've always had.

Now with a turbo, I wish I had 355s or maybe 327s. 1st gear with a stick shift is ass. Turbo isn't doing **** until second gear.
I'd probaby keep 373s if I was running a auto, but Def not a stick car.
I'm stick so I think i'll keep 3.27 or get 3.55 once i get this POS built 馃槀
 

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There's a big thread on here where it was argued that Turbo's need load to spool versus gearing for the Camshaft..


I can tell you that the load thing is just that.. A load of shyte. You need gear to keep the Cam in the powerband.

I first went 3.27 and it drove real nice on the street and thought it was fast. It was good to have 1st gear pull longer with low revs at highway speeds but it comes at a cost of torque multiplication. You think the car is fast because it isn't spinning the tires but then somebody puts you on the trailer.. Modern cars have 10 Speeds and still run a 3.73 gear. You're at a huge disadvantage.

I then went to a 3.55 and the car is faster but I lost 10mph topped out in 4th. If I had a 6-Speed, I wouldn't think twice about running a 3.73 because you get a tall 6th gear for highway cruising. If the car was dragrace only I'd run a 3.73 on a 5-speed, but because the car is mostly street/highway driven, so I still want some mpg's..

This calculator is great to figure out your speed vs tire and gear..

 

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The block is the weak link on a 302 build, buying a 331 is a waste of money without a DART or man o war block.

If you are on a budget a 351 is by far the safest option. I have never heard of anyone splitting a 351 down the middle at 500hp and most people say they are good to 700hp, rods and pistons being the weak links. Go to theturboforums, a lot more turbo knowledge there.

If you go 302, find a stock one in good shape and keep the boost to 10psi or so. I did that for years no issues. 445whp and 490 trq.

I assume you are working part time in college, same path I went on my build. It took me about $1800 to build my kit but I had a running engine and a way to tune the engine already. Junkyard turbo, built my own hotside, Chinese cold side parts. You need to pick a budget and stick to it. An aftermarket block build is easily $10k
 

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I'll also give you some advice I learned the hard way. Having a project car as your only car is stressful and not a great idea. I can't tell you how many times I had to rush something and redo it or rely on friends and family because my only car was taken apart for a weekend project that turned into 2-3 weeks. Make sure you have a reliable form of transportation besides your project car so you can take your time and do everything the right way. I also didn't enjoy my car as much because I was worried about blowing it up all the time and not having the money to fix it. Having a second car alleviates a lot of that.

Start going to local car Hangouts, avoid the troublemakers that will get you arrested or dead, build a network of car buddies so you have help and can learn from them as well.

I ran an F cam because I wanted the cool cam lope sound. A stock engine and cam with a turbo will be plenty power to shred your block. You'll also start finding all the weak points of the car. Trans will go, suspension won't hold up, axles and rear... I will offer up that your number one priority will be improving the rear suspension. My fox was outright scary when traction broke loose until I made the rear end suspension better. It had a mind of its own, there's a reason mustangs have a reputation for burnouts going wrong. The lateral movement in the rear end makes it very unpredictable.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
The block is the weak link on a 302 build, buying a 331 is a waste of money without a DART or man o war block.

If you are on a budget a 351 is by far the safest option. I have never heard of anyone splitting a 351 down the middle at 500hp and most people say they are good to 700hp, rods and pistons being the weak links. Go to theturboforums, a lot more turbo knowledge there.

If you go 302, find a stock one in good shape and keep the boost to 10psi or so. I did that for years no issues. 445whp and 490 trq.

I assume you are working part time in college, same path I went on my build. It took me about $1800 to build my kit but I had a running engine and a way to tune the engine already. Junkyard turbo, built my own hotside, Chinese cold side parts. You need to pick a budget and stick to it. An aftermarket block build is easily $10k
Lol you were close. I'm a high school student working part time. I already have a 78/75mm turbo but not the plumbing, wastegate, BOV intercooler, etc. The fox shell that I bought already has some aftermarket suspension but I have to take a better look to see if i need to upgrade even further. It used to be a drag car and HAD a roll cage in it.No engine or trans but I got a T-5, trick flow intake (upper and lower), fuel cell, and mickey thompsons as well. Right now with everything including the car I think I have 1600 into it. Im going to buy a donor car for 700 with an engine, wire harness, front seats (i need), and other interior pieces Im missing, and some other goodies. I honestly might go with a 351. But I dont know if i need different motor mounts for the 351.And hopefully I can use the trickflow intake with the 351 If i go that route.Also I do have a second car that i use as my daily. I have a FBO and tuned 99 GT that i use but also I have a nissan altima when i want to save gas
 

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The motor mounts should work for both, the upper intake will usually swap but the lower intake is different for a 351. You also need a different distributor and headers if you go with a 351
 

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What type of block would you recommend? I see a lot of people with Dart blocks because they can hold so much power but I also see DSS. I never heard of DSS before but they seem like a decent place.

There's a dozen or so reasons as to why old schoolers where busting blocks in half,I'll name a few.Bad tunes,bad head gaskets,bad R finishes for head gaskets,stock 50oz balanced rotaters being spun to high.Stroking and leveraging a bored out thin wall casting block,over reving those or getting greedy and adding power adders to their strokers.Regardless of what anyone says studs and girdles do help with main cap walk due to the more precise dia.of the main studs and its clamping abilty and collective clamping tie down on the caps,align hone for the studs yield,they have their limit and that limit is rpm and weights.

If your on a budget then build a motor you can afford to make an amateur mistake with.

Asking for trouble isnt the name of the game and that's not what I'm saying but use the the stocker as a vocational training tool.Take an OEM motor used, strip it and check all of the math in the motor,is the math stable or is it a wonkey hunk of **** that needs to be machined?

If it doesn't need to be machined then do the basics,deck the surface,plate hone the bores for a little extra clearances.Gap your rings accordingly,do cam bearings,turn the crank and install descent bearings at it.Do the oiling mods up front.Freeze plugs etc etc.Basic basic service.

Billet timing chain,arp oil pump drive shaft,good oil pump that's been inspected and deburred,head studs,MLS gaskets with no more than a .030 fire ring past the bore as long as the fire ring is around the combustion chamber then that's as far as it needs to ride around the bore.F-cam degreed in place,Just about any small aluminum head with a quality valve spring will get you there.Any intake on the earth will get you there,(do the home work),The list of potential parts you could possibly need for a number of combinations is endless and could stifle your build time and motivation.If you played your cards right you could build a solid 575hp reliable turbo fox for less then 5 to 6 grand including motor,fuel,and tuning management.You can always install a more wackier motor once the platform has been over built for a more budget conscious motor/turbo combo.Hide the money where it counts build a bitchen mill down the road. Set the car up to run faster then you can afford in power.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
My original plan was to build a 331 stroker and put the turbo on it. After doing some research I realized with the money I'm gonna spend on building a 302, it's not worth the power Ill be getting. My end goal is going to be a EFI 351W with the 78mm turbo. Im still putting a 302 in it for now because Im buying another foxbody to use as a donor car (i need front seats, engine, wire harness, and some other misc parts) but then im selling the rest or parting it out. I might do some minor bolt ons and a tune for the 302 that will be sititng in there for the time I build the 351. The donor car im buying doesnt have a computer so do u have any recommendations? and once I got with thw 351 turbo should i do a stand alone?
 

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Stand alone are nice then you add a new wrinkle . It will need to be tuned Holley, mega squirt etc.... all make good system. See which system you tuner would prefer .
 

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I agree with the above. Talk to whomever will be tuning it and see what standalone they like.

ks
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Stand alone are nice then you add a new wrinkle . It will need to be tuned Holley, mega squirt etc.... all make good system. See which system you tuner would prefer .
I don't have a tuner yet. I just started on building cars but one guy who messaged me about selling his 351 said he knows a tuner thats no where around where so he can tune for me and nobody will know my set up :devilish:
 
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