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Discussion Starter #1
I was doing the 5lug front brake upgrade to my Mustang this weekend and when I was removing the lower ball joint from the spindle and I hit ithe top of t with a hammer....
I know.. I screwed up.. When I hit it, I damaged some of the top threads and the bolt won't go back on - It just cross threads... Can I just replace the passenger side A-Arm from a tubluar k-member? It is only the passenger side lower ball joint that is damaged. It can't be replaced - it looks like it is welded into the a-arm.

I learned from my mistake and bought the fork tool for the drivers side and that went fine. If anyone knows how I can fix it or where I can get a replacement tubular a-arm...

Thanks
 

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Can you use a tap and die set to fix the threads? I would think you could run the die over the stud and be back in business...


BTW - I see you are in Tamp, but I've never seen your car around. check out www.badrap.net It's a Tampa based American, V8, RWD car club we have. Do you ever go to Checkers on Saturday nights?

Matt
 

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you can just change the ball joint. ive never heard of any arm, solid or tubular that wouldnt allow to change the balljoint. they couldnt possibly expect you to replace the arm everytime a ball joint wears out! call the manufacturer of the arm & talk with them. i highly doubt the ball joint is welded in. the area that supports the ball joint may be welded & this is what you see!
 

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I agree with mygt
 

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If he's running tubular a-arms, there is a really high probability that the ball joints have a couple of tack welds on them to make sure that they stay in place.

I know Griggs and Ground Pounder to this. Not sure about the other brands.

What you'll need to do (IF you can't fix the threads with a die/tap) is to grind off the spot welds, press the balljoint out, replace the balljoint and then have it tack-welded back in.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU TACKWELD THE BALLJOINT AGAIN!!!!!

They are press fit... and they don't fit... weld it or it will pop out at the most inopportune time (voice of experience)!

Later,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They are tack welded into the a-arm..

I will try to fix the threads first. If not, then I guess I will have to replace the ball joint..

Thanks everyone.
 

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I did the same stupid thing recently.I was hitting the top of the balljoint with a sledgehammer(to break it loose from the control arm) and I deformed the top of the ball joint a bit.It wouldnt let me screw the nut back on.On the factory balljoint(and maybe on all balljoints)there is about a 1/4 inch or less of the ball joint top that doesnt have any threads at all,its just smooth steel.This is the part I damaged and not any of the threads itself.I took my trusty dremel tool with a grinding stone and carefully ground away the malformed steel so that the nut would slip on,all the while not touching the any of the threads and it worked.
 

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djoz, sorry about the misinformation, i knew that the balljoint had to be replaceable but was unaware of the tack welds........what kind of tubular arms do you have?
 

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mygt8a4re said:
djoz, sorry about the misinformation, i knew that the balljoint had to be replaceable but was unaware of the tack welds........what kind of tubular arms do you have?
Me too.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm not sure what kind they are..
I bought the car with them already on it. The ball joint is definetley tack welded to the a-arm though.

KNA88GT, my ball joint threads start right at the top. I wonder why mine are different? I know the stock ball joint has some room at the top and then the threads start, boy I wish mine where like that:(
Then, I wouldn't have this problem...

I brought the entire a-arm with me to work today and I am going to try and get the threads fixed, if that doesn't work then I am going to attempt to grind the tack welds and try to replace the ball joint.

Can anyone tell what type of a-arm or ball joint this is from the pic below?


Here are the damaged threads..


Thanks everyone for your advice...
-oZ
 

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Those look like Ground Pounder.... but it's easy to be mistaken since EVERYONE is copying EVERYTHING these days!!!!
 

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looks like a D&D, thats what my arms look like;)
 

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BLOWN1989SALEEN said:
looks like a D&D, thats what my arms look like;)
Exactly.... I have Griggs... which looks like that except gray. Ground-Pounder looks just like that too.

Un-Phukin-Real.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks everyone, I took it to a shop...

They are going to replace the lower ball joint. I told them to replace it with a 1995 GT lower ball joint since I have the 95' front spindles. I was going to have to use a spacer but with the 95' ball joint, I shouldn't now.

Anyone see any problems with this?

Thanks.
-oZ
 

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yes you are right on that. the only reason the spacer is needed is because the fox ball joint is taller and would run out of threads before you get the nut tight. also, the cotter pin hole that secures the nut wouldnt line up unless you have at least 5/16" of shim..............so is the sn95 ball joint the same design for a direct swap?(with the exception of the lenghth of course) i am curious of this because im looking into tubular arms & would like to do w/o the spacers i currently have!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks to everyone that helped with this...
I grinded down the tack welds replaced the ball joint with a SN95 one and finished installing the SN95 front brakes and 98' GT rims... WOW what a difference it makes...


Later..
-oZ
 

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I must say, I generally don't like the looks of the older cars, that car looks BAD!!!! :eek:

Take that as a huge compliment coming from me!!!

I have never seen those wheels on a notch, they look very good!!

Nice Car!
I just forwarded it to all of my friends with notch's and asked them why their car didn't look likew that. :)

Brian
 
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