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Discussion Starter #1
Other than just replacing it? Thanks!
 

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JEFF-WHITE LX said:
Other than just replacing it? Thanks!
DRAIN ALL THE OIL OUT OF THE MOTOR! This will stop that leak for sure!



Sorry their are no shortcuts on this one REPLACE IT!
 

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Re: Re: Tricks/tips for stopping rear mail leak?

5.0 CHERO said:
DRAIN ALL THE OIL OUT OF THE MOTOR! This will stop that leak for sure!



Sorry their are no shortcuts on this one REPLACE IT!
I am going to replace it, just wondering what else I can do to help it not leak.
 

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Re: Re: Re: Tricks/tips for stopping rear mail leak?

JEFF-WHITE LX said:
I am going to replace it, just wondering what else I can do to help it not leak.
you should get prepared for another leak. that's right. you replace it with a new seal and everything will be fine for a day, week, month, hey, maybe it will be fine for a year or two
BUT
it will leak again
:)
 

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make sure your pcv system is operating properly, especially with a supercharger, too much crankcase pressure can cause your rear main, not to mention other seals leaking prematurely
 

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i guess i'll take a little cheese with my "whine!!" mine started leaking 2 weeks after i installed my engine. it is disgusting , on a brand new engine, to have a leak with 500 mi. on it. there has got to be a tried and true method to keep this from happening??? new cars don't leak??? mine will drip a good puddle every time i start it up. i've tried running it low on oil, n/c. if i'm gonna yank my engine, again, i want to be sure it's not going to leak for at least 25,000 mi. i just don't think that's unreasonable!!
 

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First if you have a groove worn into the crank surface, it will leak again. If there is a groove, I would suggest a repair sleeve. Two things will happen, first you will provide a new surface for the seal, second, the seal will fit tighter on the crank. Most likely this will correct your problem. Also, make sure you put sealer or red Loctite on the flywheel bolts. The bolt holes go right to the crankcase and will seep oil over time if you don't. It's also a good time to replace your tranny seals. On a T-5 there is a seal behind the bearing retainer. The pump seal on the autos is right out in the open, do them now instead of having to pull them later.
 

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Seem to be having the same problem. Thought it was my oil pan, replaced it with a Canton. Replaced the rear main seal too. Still leaking, but not as much. Going to check and change the lower intake seal and also check the PCV. I always use RTV to seal the lower intake, does anybody have problems with using the cork or silicone/rubber gaskets?
 

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I suggest the repair sleeve from Fel-Pro, thats what I'm doing next time the tranny is out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: Re: Re: Re: Tricks/tips for stopping rear mail leak?

pkstang said:
you should get prepared for another leak. that's right. you replace it with a new seal and everything will be fine for a day, week, month, hey, maybe it will be fine for a year or two
BUT
it will leak again
:)
You guys are beating me down. I'm replacing the tranny, so I plan on just replacing the rear main as well, BUT WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF, ON TOP OF REPLACING IT, THERE IS ANYTHING ELSE I CAN DO TO HELP IT FROM LEAKING AGAIN.
 

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What did I write? Personally, I don't care whether you do it right or not. I told you what to do, if you don't want to hear the answer, why ask the question? What more do you want.
 

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huggies disposable & duct tape.
I tried everything on my when my jeep started leaking.
I think it could be a million dollar idea to find some way to stop the leak for a little while without the pain of 6 hours of labor to change a $3 piece of rubber.
 

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most of the time when they're leaking on a new motor, its because you've changed the pcv system in one way or another. I made that mistake once and blew oil all over a brand new clutch. Make sure your venting the crankcase properly with vented oil fill caps or in the stock type config. Lots of guys have had good luck with the crank case evac systems too.
 

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mine does most of it's leaking after the car is stopped!! evac systems and pcv system aren't gonna help. that repair sleeve i a good one. i've never seen or heard of one in 30 years. never seen one in any catalogs either. with ALL the discussions and searches, never heard speak of it??? fi347, where can you get one??? how does it attach??? it will definitely make it tighter, but will it wear quicker??
 

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Most parts stores should be able to get them. You can get them to repair the rear main surface and also the damper. Fel-Pro makes them, I believe Victor Reinz also. I don't remember part #s, but can look them up if needed. I don't think extra wear will be pronounced, they aren't too thick.
 
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