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Discussion Starter #1
Just what the subject line says. I've got a vibration in the clutch pedal between 2k and 2.5k rpm. Happens when under load, cruising, whenever the engine is in that range. I also get a little bit of a groan when I push the pedal in after driving it a little while. The groan is coming from the pedal itself as I can hear it inside the car coming from the driver's side floorboard. It didn't do any of this before but I just had the clutch changed out with a King Cobra setup by a tranny shop. The guy did it for free so I feel bad going back and asking him what's up right away. The only pieces I haven't changed is the clutch cable and I have a Steeda adjustable quadrant to put in.

I'm just wondering if this is a telltale sign of it not being adjusted right, bad install, etc. Other than the vibe, it grabs hard and does not slip at all. No noises other than the pedal noise. My biggest concern is the vibration. It's a pretty severe one but I only feel it in the pedal. There is no vibration from the engine or anything at all. The pedal just goes crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
anyone?
 

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maybe...

....could be the cable brkt not bolted down under the hood or could be in the pedal tower, there are bushing in the top of the tower were the pedal shaft goes thru the tower. also if the clutch was not bolted in right (there is a pattern for bolting the P/P to the flywheel which could cause a vibration(usally this cause a "chatter"). also check the engine/trans mts and check to see if all the bellhousing bolts are in and tight.
Randy Stinchcomb
 

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When you had the new clutch put in did you have the flywheel resurfaced? If not that would be your culprit right there.

Always have the flywheel resurfaced when you install a new clutch especially if you have some miles on the car and the first clutch....

Also if you still are running the stock cable and quadrant than I guarantee you that the clutch cable isn't adjusted properly because the new clutch and pressure plate will give the cable a lot more slack.. You can try the stock quadrant adjustable mechanism by pulling up on the clutch pedal until you hear some ratchet or clicking sound. That should adjust the slack in the cable. But if you already have the Steada Quadrant and adjustable cable why not just install that? Do you have a Firewall adjuster you can install with the new cable and Quadrant?
I would highly recommend one. Because your new Quadrant is not adjustable like the stock unit. It only has two hooks which you can utilize along with the adjustable clutch cable. You can of course crawl underneath the car every time you want to adjust the clutch cable and tighten it there or you can save yourself a hell of a lot of trouble and just install a Firewall adjuster at the same time when you install the Quadrant. That way you can make adjustments in about 5 seconds at the firewall instead on the cold ground of the garage... ;)

Hope that helps...

Take care and Good Luck!

Tom in Indy
 

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Double Post.... Sorry....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the replies.

I did put in a new flywheel rather than have the old one turned. I bought a billet steel one from D&D and also had the shop put in the pilot bearing and TO bearing I bought from D&D as well.

If I reach down as I am driving, there is about 3/4" of play in the pedal before it seems to put any pressure on the clutch assembly. I figured exactly what you suggested Tom, that the cable had some slack in it and the pedal is now loose when it is at the "top" (not pushed in). If I push in the pedal just slightly, 90% of the vibration goes away. So I figure I just need to adjust the cable but I will check all of the things that Randy and everyone else suggested. My only concern is to not adjust the pedal down too much so that it is putting pressure on the clutch like I am "riding" it. Anyone know how to determine the perfect set?

I haven't put in the steeda quadrant and firewall adjuster yet b/c my weekends have been shot since before I got the new clutch in. Seems like it is always something coming up that keeps me busy.

Anyway, I also need to find a stock clutch cable at a local dealer. I just haven't had time to look. I figure if I am messing around with the assembly, might as well put in all new stuff so I don't have to deal with it again in a few mo.

Brian
 

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Didn't your kit come with an adjustable cable? If not no big deal from what I read those things don't last as long as the stock cable. Actually the stock cables aren't that great either. I actually have an adjustable cable and bought a new stock cable to compare and the adustable cable seems a lot more heavy duty than the stock cable. I tried them both and I really can't tell any difference at all. They slide just fine. The aftermarket cable actually just seems a lot beefier than the stock cable.
As far as the bracket on the cable. I never attached mine since I made swap from Automatic to Stick a few months back. I just didn't find a suitable mounting location and I just left the bracket unbolted. Doesn't seem to be a problem. I just made sure I routed the new cable the least restricted way possible.
As far as putting load on the clutch. That is very hard to do especially with the POS stock plastic Quadrant. It doesn't have enough strength to cause any binding of the cable. Just make sure to pull up on the pedal until you hear a clicking or racheting sound and then push down on the clutch pedal. That should adjust the cable. Again, I would just chuck the darn thing at your first oportunity and install the Steada Quadrant and Firewall adjuster. It will make your life a whole lot easier. ;) And the adjustments are a snap... Just tighten up the adjuster until there is no more slack in the cable, then back it off about 1/4 of a turn.
That should give you the proper adjustment. It will be a heck of lot better then the Plastic pOS that you have now.

Since it's a new clutch it may have to wear in a bit. If there is any chatter it will usually go away after the first 500 miles or so.
The Billitt flywheel is a bit heavier than stock so it may take a bit to get used to as well. I actually opted for an Aluminum Flywheel which is what D&D recommended with my power output and rear end. It will put less shock to the wheels and accellerate faster.
So far it has been great. But I haven't been to the track yet.
I definitely takes off a lot quicker and revs much faster...

Good Luck with your car and I hope you will get the clutch problem worked out soon.

Tom
 
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