Ford Mustang Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So my stock clutch has to go. . . Not to mention that I spun it and its worthless now, but hey. Anyway, I picked up a King Cobra Kit and was anxious to install it.
I pulled my Haynes manual and skimmed through it. Take off the Pro 5.0, the X-Pipe, Driveshaft, clutch cable, 5 bolts on the tranny and slide it right off right??? Ya.
Everything went smooth until I got to the tranny. I took off the 5 bolts that the manual shows and nothing happens. It turns out that there are several additional bolts that are not listed in the Haynes. 2 for the starter and a couple more that run toward the rear of the car. So I think, take those out and she should slide back no problem. Nope.
I noticed a black bracket on the very "top" of the bellhousing. I have no idea what it is for. It was accessable from the engine bay however. The two bolts are EXTREMELY hard to get too. I have all of the proper tools. I could only get one of the two bolts out. (passenger side if you will.), but his brother is next to him on the "drivers side".
Haynes talks nothing of this. I am so frustrated with this. I finally called it quits at midnight and I started at 5:00p. I thought forsure that I would have the flywheel out so I could get it reserfaced tomorrow. Will somebody who is a little more versed in this area than I, PLEASE help me out?? :mad: :mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,957 Posts
I feel your pain. That f.....ing Haynes manual does not just suck, it flat out lies. I think it assumes that 5.0s, and 4.6s are the same. You have to do something else that it says not to do. Remove the trans cross member and let the motor and trans hang down. You can then get at those two top bolts with a few long extensions and maybe a swivel from under the car. Run them up along the top of the trans. I wound up cutting one of the bolts off with a dremel. That actually took hours. Nothing else I could do because I stripped it. On the second bolt, I figured out what to do.
Hang in there.
Erich
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,957 Posts
Here is what the 97 Ford manual (which I finally got thanks to Ranger) says:
Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to «Section 14-01».

2. Working inside vehicle, remove gearshift lever boot (7277) and console panel gear shift plate (044G24) to expose two gearshift lever bolts.

3. Remove two gearshift lever bolts, gearshift lever and isolator from transmission stub shaft.

4. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. Refer to «Section 00-02».

5. Mark the driveshaft (4602) so that it may be installed in the same position. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle universal joint flange (4851). Slide the driveshaft off the transmission output shaft and install Extension Housing Seal Replacer T96P-7127-A into the extension housing (7A039) to prevent lubricant leakage.

6. Remove the eight bolts retaining the dual converter H pipe. Remove dual converter H pipe.

7. Remove retaining bolt and clutch release lever dust shield (7513). Disconnect clutch cable.

8. Remove the two nuts retaining the rear transmission support to the transmission support crossmember (6A023).

9. Support the engine and transmission with a transmission jack.

10. Remove the two nuts from the rear engine support bolts. Remove bolts, raise jack slightly and remove transmission support crossmember.

11. Disconnect the wiring harness from the backup lamp switch (15520).

12. Disconnect electrical connector from speedometer sensor on extension housing.

13. Disconnect battery cable and ignition wire from starter motor (11001). Remove three starter motor retaining bolts and remove starter motor. Using jackstand, support cylinder blocks (6010) and balancer.

14. Remove seven bolts retaining clutch housing to cylinder blocks.

15. Move the transmission and jack rearward until the transmission input shaft (7017) clears the clutch pressure plate. If necessary, lower the engine (6007) enough to obtain clearance for removal of the transmission.

Clutch Preassembly Procedures

1. Clean components by scraping and soaking in a suitable solvent.

Check flywheel housing face and bore, clutch housing face, transmission input shaft (7017) and front face for any bruising. Remove if necessary. Clean the clutch housing interior with a suitable solvent.

2. Clean the transmission input shaft with a wire brush, then polish the input shaft and clean with a suitable solvent. Check condition of the transmission input shaft. Use a stone to dull sharp edges on the splines. If splines are worn excessively or notched, the clutch disc (7550) will not slide on the input shaft. Replace the input shaft as required.

3. Clean the flywheel face with a suitable solvent.

4. Clean the clutch release lever (7515) with a wire brush. Smooth the clutch release locating faces with a Carborundum stone and then clean with a suitable solvent. Apply a light coating of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B to the clutch release lever locating faces. If clutch release lever is worn excessively, replace it.

5. If reinstalling the old clutch, clean the clutch pressure plate (7563) with a suitable solvent.


Ok, lets see if this goes thru.
Erich
 

·
US Air Force Active Duty
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
First of all, do what Erich said and let the tranny 'droop' so you can get to the top bolts on the bell-housing.

Second of all, to easily access the starter bolts you'll need a really long extension (about 18" I think). You can easily get to the starter bolts from the front of the engine--the ratchet should wind up somewhere near the A/C compressor. Slide the extensions inbetween the motor and K-member towards the starter, and viola--easy starter access. :D

Hope that helps some, and it'll really be easier your second time. I had the same troubles the first time I did it, but it's no biggy now--it takes about 2 1/2 hours to swap the clutch.

-Pat
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
it' s the top bolts, tere are 7 bolts and the three starter bolts



remember to jack up the front of the engine when re-installing it

the tranny will go in nice and easy then
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
also make sure the wiring harness is totally disconnected, there is a last little hold point in the top passenger side of the tranny,



you'll also need an impact to get the flywheel off/on
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys. I have the cross member and all of the above and the tranny hangs quite a bit. I was a little worried that the motor mounts wouldnt hold since that last bolt is still up there. The starter bolts are out and as far as I know, the rest are too, all but that one on the very top, "drivers side." Im gonna mess around with it a bit after work today, but I just cannot seem to get that bolt out. GRRRRRRR!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,957 Posts
Yeah, don't worry about letting the trans hang down on the motor mounts, they're strong-and it is the only way to get that top bolt out! I had trouble with the P-side bolt. You really need some long extensions and (I think) a swivel in the middle of them.
Erich
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top