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Discussion Starter #1
Well, it's probably a good idea to start thinking about taking my car on a trailer...in case I need to bring it back on one. But I don't have a tow vehicle, and I don't have a trailer. Are those something you can rent? I know that's not the way to go in the long run, but I have to start somewhere.

Any advice is welcome.

Thanks,

Bill
Houston
 

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Yeah there is alwasy the U-Haul way, or other equipment rental places. You can rent the truck and the trailer.

I rolled the dice for 3 years or so but I did plan ahead and bought a truck for a daily driver 2 years ago and the trailer came this year. Money well spent. Handy to have if you've got the room for it.

Rentals will get pricey though. I almost rented a U Haul last year. $40-50/day without a truck. Ouch.
 

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And if you don't have the right size hitch, they will not rent to you. One thing you will absolutely need on a trailer are electric brakes, and have a way in your car or truck to set the pressure on the brakes. Otherwise that baby will either come through the back door, or force you to make stop you were not anticipating.

ron
 

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I got am 18' car hauler from Frank's Trailers in Oklahoma two years ago for about $2100. Best investment I ever made. You need to put a brake controller on the tow vehicle.

When I changed to the live axle in my 99, I eliminated the major reason for trailering the car, LOL. But it is still nice to change all four wheels at home with an impact rather than driving the car to the races.

Joe Lynch
 

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Get the brake controller, don't even think twice. LARGE safety chains, a lock pin for the trailer, and a lock pin for the reciever on your tow vehicle.

The longer the ramps, the better. A winch is nice too, but not always needed.
 

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We've been using an 18 foot steel trailer for a couple of years now. Picked up local, that some guy was reselling for an Oklahoma based company (about $1600) Makes it nice to go to the track, dump clutch at 6000 rpms and not be worrying about how to get home :)

electric brakes were a NECESSITY on a shorter wheel base light duty truck (bronco, f150,etc..) but the Powerstroke will stop it in a heartbeat even without them. But it is a smart investment at ~100 bucks and a resonable install time.

The winch is real nice also, but with a couple of friends, isnt necessary. A dove tail (last couple of feet on trailer) slanted and nice long ramps make loading a stang SIMPLE.
 

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Hi

My advice is to buy a truck first. Buy the largest one you can afford. Used or new these are the things I would look for.

F250 supercab 351 or larger engine w/ automatic.
Equip with Towing package
A class III hitch may be a slight over kill for a open trailer but if you would upgrade later at least you would have a truck to do it.

The Trailer:
A 18' with Tandem axles, elec brakes, and a beaver tail.
The beaver tail aids in loading and unloading car.
If the trailer is used make sure it's in good condition. The lights and brakes work. The tongue is not bent.


I hope this helps.
Dwight
www.BotelerRacing.com
 

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I second the winch. I spent alittle more & sized mine for the weight of the car. I figured when or if it comes time to use it, the car may not be rolling. If the car is broken and won't roll for whatever reason, a cheap underpowered winch wont do me any good. I wired mine with the optional it to run off the truck battery. Mounting an extra battery on the trailer is a little cheaper, but then you still need to keep it charged somehow. Electric brakes on at least one of the axles is good insurance as well. Of course then you need a brake controller inside the truck, but most newer vehicles come pre-wired for one, so installation is pretty easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
trailering

mv50, i'm envioius...

Bill
 

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Ouch...that should have been about a 1 second gain for that much of a shot. Did you reset the fuel pressure on the Hobbs so it would stop cutting out?

Ron
 

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ron1 said:
Ouch...that should have been about a 1 second gain for that much of a shot. Did you reset the fuel pressure on the Hobbs so it would stop cutting out?

Ron
Yeah, I just upped my Fuel Pressure so when it would drop it stayed above the Hobbs setting. I assumed the Hobbs was set correctly. I went to the track twice again this fall and both time the nitrous vendor didn't show:( So I never got to run it at full juice. I have since added a cam so it will be fun to find out what it will do in the spring.
 

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I assumed the Hobbs was set correctly.
As you probably know there are a number of Hobbs switches out there, and for some reason each manufacturer has the pressure set at a different level and each is limited in range. I guess I was asking if you popped the cap off the Hobbs and measured the pressure and set it, rather than re-setting your fuel pressure to a higher level, that may have really fattened things up and that may have been why you were down on power. What did the plugs look like after a pass?

Ron

Sorry about changing the subject...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
trailering and NOx

ron1...no problem here, fer sure...we could start calling the thread "trailering and NOx"!

Looks like I'm going to have to rent a truck and trailer for my next trip out. That's not fun, big $$$. But the last time I was out I spent $180 on wrecker fees, so I'm just not ready to do that again. Plus this way I can have the car all set up before I go instead of spending time getting it ready at the track.

Bill
 

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Re: trailering and NOx

Bill Viverette said:
ron1...no problem here, fer sure...we could start calling the thread "trailering and NOx"!

Looks like I'm going to have to rent a truck and trailer for my next trip out. That's not fun, big $$$. But the last time I was out I spent $180 on wrecker fees, so I'm just not ready to do that again. Plus this way I can have the car all set up before I go instead of spending time getting it ready at the track.

Bill
Bill, that is the reason I went for the trailer. It is 3 hrs to the nearest track for me and that is after a 45 minute boat ferry ride.
Plus I plan to travel to other tracks/events this season. Although the mistake I made was paying too much for my trailer.
I paid $1500 for it. I have since bought new tires for it and replaced the brake system. The previous owner swore the brakes were good.:rolleyes: The price is approaching a new trailer now.
 

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ron1 said:
As you probably know there are a number of Hobbs switches out there, and for some reason each manufacturer has the pressure set at a different level and each is limited in range. I guess I was asking if you popped the cap off the Hobbs and measured the pressure and set it, rather than re-setting your fuel pressure to a higher level, that may have really fattened things up and that may have been why you were down on power. What did the plugs look like after a pass?

Ron

I did put a meter across the switch to check out at what pressure the switch was cutting out. (36 psi) But was unsure of what the factory setting was supposed to be. I felt it was safe to bump the fuel pressure a couple of psi. (40 right now) The plugs are looking fine. Can't wait til I have the dyno tune/chip installed so it will run good again. After I installed the cam it won't idle for crap. As soon as those issues are worked out I hope to run very low 12's. Maybe lower....:joy:
 
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