[MFE]

THe heavier spring won't really help that problem. What will is repacking it in a different order, replacing one steel on each side with an additional clutch and shimming it as tight as you can. This is a great setup that will withstand things like aggressive cornering, drag radials and slicks for a good long time.

 

[MFE]

Yeah, but they respond to torque input by clamping the clutches harder, so while they're supposed to slip through a corner under no or low power, if you jump on it, it should spin both tires due to the increased torque input. Like I said, packing the diff with an extra clutch on both sides makes it work like it's supposed to for a lot longer and a lot better than it does from the factory. Only trade-off is some tight-turn clunking especially when it hasn't been driven in a while.

 

[MFE]

MFE, While what you stated was true, that the trac-loc reacts to torque input, they still cannot stay locked for very long in abusive type of stuff like flooring it and
cranking it to the right or left from a stop sign. This is like the worst thing for a clutch type of diff. This is the type of driving I was reffering to. The only thing I know of that will survive that type of crap is a ratcheting locker type of diff. Eventually you will end up wrecking the car if you keep doing this kind of crap I don't think that the POS track loc is that durable anyway.

Unkle Ronny

I agree that's the worst thing on a diff but I disagree the only thing that will deal with it is a locker. I'm on my second season of autocrossing this particular T-lok rebuild, with two drivers using the car throughout the season, plus a couple trips to the drags, plus nice-weather daily driving with a heavy foot, all on drag radials, and it's just like the day I put it together. Autocrossing is about as close as you're gonna get to the "turn-it-and-floor-it" kind of abuse he's talking about and it's doing just fine. WAY better than either the stocker or the first rebuild I did without the extra clutches.