[Winks]

well, the stang does AWESOME 2 wheel burnouts now, but if i try to go around a corner and punch it (only tried once) it will start off 2 wheel, then kick back to one wheel when the car is straight again, and the car revs really easy, since its only burning with one tire.

I stopped again and tried a straightline burnout, and it burned 2 wheel the whole time, any ideas why it does this?
any help would be appreciated!......

Does it only peel one wheel on right handers, but both when going straight or left?

When my car was brand new it would act as I just described. I thought it was broken until I found out most t-lok differentials do this from the factory as the differential even when "in spec" does not really provide enough torque bias to overcome substantial difference in traction between the tires. Under power the differential tends to lift the right tire and plant the left and a right hand turn adds to this effect, resulting in a one-wheel peel if the clutches can't handle it.

You could try alternating clutches, F-150 S-Spring, or bigger/extra shims to provide more "lock-up".

 

[Winks]

MFE, While what you stated was true, that the trac-loc reacts to torque input, they still cannot stay locked for very long in abusive type of stuff like flooring it and
cranking it to the right or left from a stop sign. This is like the worst thing for a clutch type of diff. This is the type of driving I was reffering to. The only thing I know of that will survive that type of crap is a ratcheting locker type of diff. Eventually you will end up wrecking the car if you keep doing this kind of crap I don't think that the POS track loc is that durable anyway.

Unkle Ronny

If you're spinning only one tire, then the clutches are sliding against each other and you're right, they are wearing out fast. On the other hand, if you're spinning both tires (regardless of whether your going straight ahead or "cranking it to the right or left") then the clutches aren't wearing out at all. At least that's my take on it.